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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Syracuse NY
    Posts
    934

    Default Dripless shaft seal

    I'm thinking about changing the old packing seal to a drip less. What do you guys recommend. Seems like a lot guys went to pss is that the way to go. For install I'm guessing I have to take the flange off the shaft. How hard are those to remove. I know you have to heat it but will propane or mapp gas work? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

    1995 supra labrisa
    Pro boss gt40
    GPS Ridesteady
    Pioneer headunit kicker speakers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    PSS is what Vince at Skidim recommended and it's what I installed and I wouldn't change a thing about it.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Syracuse NY
    Posts
    934

    Default

    Jet how bad was it getting the flange off the end of the shaft

    1995 supra labrisa
    Pro boss gt40
    GPS Ridesteady
    Pioneer headunit kicker speakers

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Port St. Lucie, FL and Miami
    Posts
    123

    Default

    I'm definitely interested in how this goes, I'm thinking about doing it to my Launch.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cusefan78 View Post
    Jet how bad was it getting the flange off the end of the shaft
    Couldn't tell you as I had my whole engine and trans out when I did the swap so I just pulled the prop off and slid the shaft in from above. It was super easy the way I did it.

    In your case, there is a socket that is made to fit in there to loosen the nut. Get it, loosen the nut, then remove the socket wrench from the socket and use the bolts between the coupler and the flange and tighten until it loosens or pops the flange off.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Syracuse NY
    Posts
    934

    Default

    This is going to be a fall or spring project. Just trying to arm myself with info. My packing is still good just figured when I pull it out for the winter I'll tackle it before I drop it back in. I haven't really used my supra all that much this year. Still have the original tank of gas from the spring in it and it's still 3/4 full.

    1995 supra labrisa
    Pro boss gt40
    GPS Ridesteady
    Pioneer headunit kicker speakers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Vonore, TN
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Cusefan,
    I went with the oj dripless on my 91 comp. Works fine and was cheaper. It's what was standard on my 12' response. Only caveat is be careful with the graphite lips when installing as they are fragile. The PSS looks pretty bullet proof and like a great system. I'm not sure what clearance you need for the PSS. My coupler had been on for 23 years and if I remember right just took PB Blaster sitting on it overnight and some scoring at the joint line and gently wedging a sharp putty knife into the joint with patience. I don't recall needing heat. I'm not sure which coupling is on your shaft. My shaft is 1" with a king nut and small key way, didn't have to buy any extra tools. My boat needs hours too, only on second tank for the season. Good luck!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    185

    Default

    I installed PSS on both of my Correct Crafts, and my Supra came with an OJ installed by the PO. Both work very well, but like others said, the ring that has to go on the shaft with the PSS may tolerate a scored shaft (the part that is inside of the coupler) better than the OJ. The PSS's graphite seal has more clearance around the shaft, and the stainless rotor that attaches to the shaft has rubber o-rings instead of (what I think is) more graphite. I'll never own another boat (for long) with a packing on the drive shaft, and I'll probably stick with the PSS when I do my next one.

    As far as removing the coupler goes, there are a few tricks. Like NOWAKE said, backing the nut off inside of the coupling, then using the flange bolts to pull it back together working as a press is a good option. I made a copy of this tool to put in cutlass bearings and take apart shafts on 1" shaft boats:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zZ2mSH_Ncc

    I've never loved reacting that slide hammer force through the transmission, but it's what they say to do, and I've had a few boats apart with it now, with no problems..

    The first boat that I did I had the engine and trans out of, so I pulled the shaft inboard. The second had a worn, loose fit here from running with a bad alignment on a rigid mounted motor (1970 CC Barracuda). I actually ended up replacing the entire shaft setup on both with an ARE shaft system from DIM (HIGHLY recommended if you ever replace a shaft, super easy to take apart again if you need to). My supra seems to have an original shaft and coupler with the OJ.

    As usual, talk to Vince at Discount Inboard Marine, he'll be happy to share his experience if you buy the parts from them!
    Korey Morris -
    Sold to Arkansas: 1986 Supra Saltare
    Current: 2018 Moomba Craz

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NoWake View Post
    My boat needs hours too, only on second tank for the season. Good luck!
    I have an excellent solution to your problem Ken.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    40

    Default

    I'm running an OJ and it seems to work great. Mine came with a sleeve to protect the graphite seal during installation. Here are some comments I wrote previously about the install, including removing the flange.

    https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...082#post116082
    2006 Launch 24 SSV Gravity Games w/8.1

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