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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I have pulled out all the foam under the bow. A flush cut pull saw and a long pry bar allowed me to pull large chunks of foam out. I have also removed what was left of carpet and odds and ends. Once I got everything out, I noticed that the deck slants to the middle of the boat. Is there a reason for that or do I continue my plan of making the deck level?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Lake Nottely, Blairsville, GA
    Posts
    885

    Default

    Read over this thread:

    https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...sport+overhaul

    Page two has some pics I posted showing underneath the floor on my Rider.
    The floor itself is flat as a pancake, not slanted; however underneath the floor starting at bow, it slants significantly so all the water drains in bilge area.
    Is that what you are asking about?
    Right below front of motor is the lowest spot in bilge. Bilge pump should go there.
    Have more pics if you want me to post some up if you need additional help.

    2012 Supra Sunsport 242
    1991 Supra Comp ts6m
    1983 Supra Beast
    1983 Supra Rider aka Mischief IV

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I ran some string from side to side to help with measurements. The starboard side is over an inch and a half lower than the side closest to the hull. The port side is only 3/4".

    Speaking of bilge pump, I'm going to have to relocate mine from between the ski plyon and the engine. There is a really low spot in front that is 3" below the area where the plyon is fiberglassed to the hull.

    I also got the engine mounts out. Kinda hard to take the lag screws out when there is nothing for the threads to grab onto. Though there might be some life left in them

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Status update
    1. 100% of the foam is out
    2. Transom has been cut out
    3. Center stringers have been traced
    4. Floor removed
    5. Cutlass bearings removed
    6. Stringers are gone!!!

    As a note an oscillating multitool and a good bimetal is worth twice it's weight in gold. The key is to make 2 cuts, the first is to remove the most material by cutting 1/4" above the hull. The second is to cut the fiberglass flush with the hull.


    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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