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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    36

    Default

    I have pulled out all the foam under the bow. A flush cut pull saw and a long pry bar allowed me to pull large chunks of foam out. I have also removed what was left of carpet and odds and ends. Once I got everything out, I noticed that the deck slants to the middle of the boat. Is there a reason for that or do I continue my plan of making the deck level?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Lake Nottely, Blairsville, GA
    Posts
    1,206

    Default

    Read over this thread:

    https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...sport+overhaul

    Page two has some pics I posted showing underneath the floor on my Rider.
    The floor itself is flat as a pancake, not slanted; however underneath the floor starting at bow, it slants significantly so all the water drains in bilge area.
    Is that what you are asking about?
    Right below front of motor is the lowest spot in bilge. Bilge pump should go there.
    Have more pics if you want me to post some up if you need additional help.

    1983 Supra Rider aka Mischief IV
    1983 Supra Beast
    1985 Supra Rider
    1986 Supra Sunsport Skier
    1987 Supra Marauder
    1991 Supra Comp ts6m
    2012 Supra Sunsport 242

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    36

    Default

    I ran some string from side to side to help with measurements. The starboard side is over an inch and a half lower than the side closest to the hull. The port side is only 3/4".

    Speaking of bilge pump, I'm going to have to relocate mine from between the ski plyon and the engine. There is a really low spot in front that is 3" below the area where the plyon is fiberglassed to the hull.

    I also got the engine mounts out. Kinda hard to take the lag screws out when there is nothing for the threads to grab onto. Though there might be some life left in them

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Status update
    1. 100% of the foam is out
    2. Transom has been cut out
    3. Center stringers have been traced
    4. Floor removed
    5. Cutlass bearings removed
    6. Stringers are gone!!!

    As a note an oscillating multitool and a good bimetal is worth twice it's weight in gold. The key is to make 2 cuts, the first is to remove the most material by cutting 1/4" above the hull. The second is to cut the fiberglass flush with the hull.


    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    36

    Default

    By chance does anyone know how the shaft log attaches to the hull? We had a rain come through and filled the front part of the hull. When I jacked the trailer up, water was leaking through the hull opening. For my own sanity I checked and the inside of the log was completely dry.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    36

    Default

    I just added the shaft log to the long list of things to rebuild. A pry bar and maybe 5lb of pressure and the shaft log popped off. Now I get the pleasure of grinding the inside hull flat and glassing it back in properly. In all fairness the log looks to have been repaired before as the fiberglass was a completely different weave than factory.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    36

    Default

    I just picked up the fiberglass and resin for the boat. In the near future I should be making some serious headway. However while waiting to order the fiberglass, I got most of the boat rewired, engine torn down, and lots of other small tasks done.
    Last edited by h2o-ski; 05-20-2021 at 04:33 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I'm sure this is way too late to be of any help, but just in case, I had the same issue with my ski pole and frame in my 1985 Rider. The aluminum welded itself to the steel frame. There was quite a bit of corrosion on the aluminum near the base as well, which made me uncomfortable trying to reuse it. Instead, I bought a Mastercraft 48" stainless steel ski pole from Great Lakes Skipper and had a fabrication shop make an exact duplicate of the old steel frame. Then I had it powder coated. Here's a picture of the old and new before powder coating. The fab shop charged $650 and powder coating was $85.
    IMG_7110 (2).jpg
    Last edited by ClayCollins; 08-11-2021 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Fix picture orientation

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Thanks for the idea. You are not too late as life has gotten in the way.

    I have my concerns too but I chained mine to a tree and used a long heavy duty ratchet strap to put a very strong load on the pylon. There was no signs of deformation or give me any reason think the pylon was about to break.

    I now have the transom in and nearly ready to go. I have the main stringers partially tabbed in.

    Although I have had a major set back. We had a major rain storm come through. The tarp could not shed the water quick enough and instead filled with water. The weight of ~100 gallons of water was more than the cap could handle and ripped/cracked in half. It was a major blow but I have a plan forward to repair the cap.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  10. #20

    Default

    Looking good, do you have any more photos of how the swim platform attaches? My lower bolt in the swim platform is starting to pull out a bit and Iím hoping I can repair before a full stringer rebuild is needed.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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