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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    10

    Default Help with 2005 21V Launch Cutlass / Strut Bearing Replacement

    Hello everyone,

    I’m newer to boats but am mechanically inclined. Since I’ve owned the boat, going on 5 years, it’s had a low rpm high pitched noise from the prop shaft area of the boat. At the end of last season, my brother backed the prop into the muck and it sustained some damage. Funny thing, the noise went away after that.

    I ordered a new prop and, strut bearings and packing for the packing nut.

    Upon prop and shaft removal I am not seeing what I found online for a packing nut.

    Questions are also shown in pictures below:

    Question 1: Is this normal to have no strut bearing play but have a gap off to the left side? Please note the dry rot as well.

    Question 2: Do I have a packing nut? If not, is the seal that is there a wear and tear item that should be replaced when removing the shaft?

    Question 3: Is it ok to remove the coupler from shaft by installing a spacer between the couplers and tightening the bolts to press it off?

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by Mushy B; 04-12-2021 at 08:39 PM. Reason: Picture Clarity

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    21

    Default

    I could be wrong but looks like a drip less shaft so no packing nut. As far as the coupler, you may not want to mess with it. I had broken my coupler and was told by skiers choice that it is heat pressed to the shaft and are not sold separately. Hope this helps.


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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    10

    Default

    [QUOTE=Evan46;138225]I could be wrong but looks like a drip less shaft so no packing nut. As far as the coupler, you may not want to mess with it. I had broken my coupler and was told by skiers choice that it is heat pressed to the shaft and are not sold separately. Hope this helps.


    Thank you for the speedy reply. By the appearance of the strut bearing, I feel it’s necessary to remove the coupler and replace the bearings... will it require heat to remove the coupler?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    21

    Default

    I believe I had to tap out the sheer pin or key way after soaking it in penetrating oil for 2 days. Then used spacers and hit from the rear prop area. It was a bear of a process though. The bolt holes were wollowed out on mine. Luckily my Dad owns a machine shop and I was able to accurately make new holes and notch for the sheer pin. Obviously you don’t have to deal with that but just be careful because it was a major project.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Thank you Evan. I'm curious as to how the dripless seal works and if it needs to have maintenance or replacement parts while I have this apart. I'll look on the forums to see what I can turn up.

    That sounds like you had a rough time with the coupler. That's also impressive you were able to machine and shape everything to work smoothly in the end. Nice work.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Have you completed your project? What was the outcome?


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