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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Posts
    14

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    So after letting all the gas inside the intake evaporate with the carb off, I went back to what worked the other day

    Trailer all the way down, choke disconnected. Fired up instantly and idled OK. After about a minute, it was about to die off, gave it a little throttle to keep it running. Let it idle for about 5 mins catching it with a little throttle every 30 sec or so to keep it going.

    I don't want to get ahead of myself, but seems like the choke is so out of whack that its causing it not to start when connected. I have it set to dead center right now... but when I got it back from the carb guy he had it dead center upside down. Thinking maybe he bent it up.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,680

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    That adaptor plate is a spread bore, Holley's are square bore. I have never seen a spread bore Holley . I don't know how it will effect the running. Can you take a side pic of the carb and engine to show how much tilt it has . Does it have a 1to1 or a 1.23 to 1 trans if you are not sure send pic of trans.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    647

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    There are Holley spread bores. They were replacements for the old Rochesters. But so far he hasn't confirmed we are dealing with a Holley.

    What happens when you connect the choke wire? Here is what should happen when you have all hooked up correctly:

    If you pull the cover after the engine has sat and cooled, the choke will be open.
    When you cycle the throttle full forward and back, the choke should set fully closed.
    Once you crank and start, the choke will crack about 1/4" from full closed.
    Then the choke will slowly move to the open position over about 90 seconds, until full open.

    If you do have an electric choke, if you turn the ignition on and have the throttle slightly above idle (engine not started), then the choke should slowly move to open over a 90 second period.

    Chokes rarely have to be moved off the center position on the adjuster. One or 2 notches makes a big difference.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CJD View Post
    There are Holley spread bores. They were replacements for the old Rochesters. But so far he hasn't confirmed we are dealing with a Holley.

    What happens when you connect the choke wire? Here is what should happen when you have all hooked up correctly:

    If you pull the cover after the engine has sat and cooled, the choke will be open.
    When you cycle the throttle full forward and back, the choke should set fully closed.
    Once you crank and start, the choke will crack about 1/4" from full closed.
    Then the choke will slowly move to the open position over about 90 seconds, until full open.

    If you do have an electric choke, if you turn the ignition on and have the throttle slightly above idle (engine not started), then the choke should slowly move to open over a 90 second period.

    Chokes rarely have to be moved off the center position on the adjuster. One or 2 notches makes a big difference.
    Yes it is a Holley 4160

    I'm thinking the choke cap (the adjustable part) is toast. Did some research, they're only supposed to turn to the notches (looks like no more than 45 degrees) in either direction. Any more risks damage to to coil inside. Like I said before, when I got it back from rebuild, it was dead center upside down (turned 180 degrees from center). So it was probably bent wide open, malfunctioning and pouring way too much gas in. Hence why no issue when disconnected.

    I have a new one in the mail now

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Posts
    14

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    Okay, 100% is a strong number... but I'm almost there believing the new choke cap is going to solve my issue.

    I pulled the cap off, and like I suspected it was badly bent out of shape. No amount of proper adjustment opens it up at all.

    So, while electric disconnected, I operated choke by hand. Slightly cracked open to start, slowly opened as it warmed up. Idled perfectly.

    I think what was happening before was the choke was dead closed and causing the no start. With it disconnected, I'm guessing it was able to cracked open just slightly enough to fire up and run rich.

    With the new cap I should get proper operation and should be good to go

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    647

    Default

    Excellent!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Posts
    14

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJD View Post
    Excellent!
    Thanks so much for the help
    Feel real dumb for not noticing choke malfunction... but with freshly rebuilt carb that was just so far from my mind

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