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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
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    17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wylietunes View Post
    Your 2ga and 80A fuse is fine, id leave it as long as the terminations are correct. You've already proven it works, as the fuse blew v's the 2ga melting down

    However, I dont see how that fuse blew. Seems that there was a dead short between the 2 batteries. As if one was reversed polarity. Is the control ground the only circuit on the ACR, you are using? Thats one of the small blade terminals along the bottom. Or are you using the SI?
    The ACR is connected to the small ground, going to a bussbar. I also have the LED going to the accessory side on the switch.. maybe i should change that to the house? Not that it is causing the issue.

    I do have a question in regards to the bussbar. I connected the ground from the engine to the bussbar, along with the negative battery terminals to the bussbar. Do you think it's wise to have the engine ground go to the bussbar or should it go directly to the negative battery terminal instead?

    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

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    I also have the LED going to the accessory side on the switch
    So you are using the remote indicator (LED) terminal off the ACR? That output terminal is wired to the negative side of an LED and the LED is wired to switch? Or sis you run a wire from the LED terminal direct to the switch with no LED in the middle with correct polarity?

    Your ground BUS is fine, as long as the ground cables between the BUS and batteries is of proper gauge.

    Also looks like there are only 3 cables exiting the switch. I presume main starter cable, cranking battery and house battery. Are there no house loads?
    Last edited by Wylietunes; 09-04-2021 at 09:51 AM.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    17

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    The red 50 amp circuit breaker at the back of the engine is not responding to me pushing it in. I'm assuming it's supposed to click? I think that might be my problem.. and if so I'm wondering why it popped in the first place.

    I'll get a new one installed and run everything stock to at least get the engine to turn. Appreciate all your suggestions.

    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
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    17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wylietunes View Post
    So you are using the remote indicator (LED) terminal off the ACR? That output terminal is wired to the negative side of an LED and the LED is wired to switch? Or sis you run a wire from the LED terminal direct to the switch with no LED in the middle with correct polarity?

    Your ground BUS is fine, as long as the ground cables between the BUS and batteries is of proper gauge.

    Also looks like there are only 3 cables exiting the switch. I presume main starter cable, cranking battery and house battery. Are there no house loads?
    I think you may have helped me. I just spoke with West Marine and was told that my wire coming off the ACR LED is not supposed to go to my switch. That is causing the ACR to ground out. It's supposed to go to a light indicator on my dash...

    Will be getting my circuit breaker tomorrow morning and try this all out then..

    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    17

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    No dice.. video link below of me trying to start it.

    Replaced the 50 amp circuit. Connected back to stock, power and ground off engine straight to a charged battery (was charged to 100% on my charger before starting). Have the new Mando alternator installed correctly w/ the exciter wire, ground and power. But it wont turn.

    Looks and feels like a bad battery.. this is my 3rd battery I've had lying around that was charged. Could this be a starter possibly? I don't have knowledge on checking voltage across everything.. but that is what i should learn to do asap.

    EDIT: I did get it to turn much more than that when I pulled my truck battery out for a quick test. So I know the engine isn't siezed thank the lord.. but it did have me worried. This vid below shows on the boat battery..

    Any thoughts? Vid below
    Last edited by SeattleBoat; 09-06-2021 at 05:56 PM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    17

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    There is only 1 way to learn and its by doing. Wish I never attempted the dual battery.. summer is running away from me Appreciate all the tips you guys have given

    I removed the starter and did a bench test w/ battery and it spins.., it seems to slightly move around a bit right at the end. Not really sure what to think. Off video, I attached power to just the solenoid and it operated fine, pushing the gear out. There seems to be a little play, so I think I'll place an order w/ skidim for part# RA12209. I saw others have used DB Electrical for starters.. but the ones I'm finding both seem unavailable to order. At this point.. I don't want to get too creative. Just want a solution.

    Heres a vid of the bench test..


    Guys have any thoughts on that?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

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    Quote Originally Posted by SeattleBoat View Post
    No dice.. video link below of me trying to start it.

    Replaced the 50 amp circuit. Connected back to stock, power and ground off engine straight to a charged battery (was charged to 100% on my charger before starting). Have the new Mando alternator installed correctly w/ the exciter wire, ground and power. But it wont turn.

    Looks and feels like a bad battery.. this is my 3rd battery I've had lying around that was charged. Could this be a starter possibly? I don't have knowledge on checking voltage across everything.. but that is what i should learn to do asap.

    EDIT: I did get it to turn much more than that when I pulled my truck battery out for a quick test. So I know the engine isn't siezed thank the lord.. but it did have me worried. This vid below shows on the boat battery..

    Any thoughts? Vid below
    This vid indicates the starter system is electrically working as you see the engine bump.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wylietunes View Post
    This vid indicates the starter system is electrically working as you see the engine bump.
    I agree... But when I did that a few other times the starter gear would kick out but then come back in. It fluctuated a bit, so I'm a bit confused as well.

    I did order a starter from Skidim.. will know Thursday..



    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

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    Been awhile since ive bench tested a starter, but it sure does look like it spins up slow. Could just be a total coincidence that the starter craps out at the same time you are testing the new dual bank setup.

    With that said, yeah, if you want the LED output direct to the battery, no telling what it would cause the ACR to do, so blowing that 80A fuse is possible.

    Honestly, I never use the LED or the SI terminals on single engine trailer boats. All you need is the ground control.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    17

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    Installed the starter and i have zero power anywhere, battery is fully charged. When my neighbor was here jumping the motor by hand on the old starter, he obviously tripped something.. but I don't know what? I checked the continuity of the thermal fuses in the pics below.. they are good. Could this be an ignition module that needs replacing? If that was dead.. would the whole boat be dead as well?

    The 50 amp circuit breaker at the engine is good..



    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by SeattleBoat; 09-12-2021 at 04:06 PM.

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