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  1. #71
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    152

    Default

    87SunSport
    A vapor detector senses gas fumes in the bilge so , in theory, you do not need to run your blower.
    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=12413

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    8

    Default few questions

    rickr,
    i have an 86 supra comp ts6m and just pulled the top half off and am ready to get started on this project, a few questions. did you fiberglass the floor after you installed it? did you epoxy after you glassed it? what epoxy did you use? also, you talk about 5200 a lot, what are you referring to?

    sorry for all the questions. just pulled out my plywood and it was shot but thankfully stringers are in great shape.

    also, i am planning on refoaming the boat, wondering what you think about putting in some drains into the bilge area or should i concentrate on keeping it dry for good?

    also, most of my caps for the screws that hold the sides down are shot, did you find any place to get these?

    thanks for all your help, great job!!!

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    152

    Default

    macpres
    Before I installed the pywood it was coated on all surfaces with 2 coats of thin/med. I fiberglassed the top with one layer of 1708. I also painted another layer of resin on the glass afterward.

    I used US Composites thin/med for most of the project. Thick/med mixed with cabosil for the putty/filets. If you work in hot temps you might need some slow. FYI: Thick/med kicks much faster than thick/med.

    5200 is a 3M Polyurathane caulk, it is permanent! 4200 or Boatlife/Lifecaulk (Polysulfide) is not as permanent. West Marine has some good info on their web sight.

    Our TS6M already had drains but the foam clogged them up. More drains are better.

    Fasteners http://www.mcmaster.com Don't forget the rivits.

    GOOD LUCK! The floor (sole) should be much easier than my project

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    8

    Default Fiberglass

    What type of fiberglass did u use? Thanks for the help

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    152

    Default

    http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html
    Glass for sole, 1708 Kyntex, cloth tape for the edges.

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    macpres...i don't have a comp but i've rebuilt my saltare from the stringers up. search saltare rebuild for some pics.

    Quote Originally Posted by macpres View Post
    also, i am planning on refoaming the boat, wondering what you think about putting in some drains into the bilge area or should i concentrate on keeping it dry for good?
    this is a great question. when i was rebuilding mine, i cringed at the thought of water getting back into the foam rotting out all of my hard work. the fact is, i can't fiberglass as good as a factory can...rickr might , his work is as clean as i've seen on the internet. instead of trying to defeat water (there's little point in even trying) i modified a few things. i think the factory cut a few corners and they were really important ones.

    *adding drainage to the bilge....YES. a few well sealed holes in the stringers will allow any water to drain properly. wood can't rot if the water doesn't sit. the factory couldn't keep water out, i doubt many people can.

    *pourable flotation foam....it's good stuff. it floats like a mother but when it's poured into a hull it clogs everything up. check my rebuild thread for pouring foam blocks so you still get the benefit of foam but it can drain.

    i used poly resin in my rebuild, also mostly from us composites.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    8

    Default

    quick question for you guys, anyone thought of glassing in the plywood supports in for the engine cover rather than screwing them down after and wrapping the carpet up and over them, seems like it would be much more solid, wouldnt take much to hold it in place and would be a nice clean look, let me know if there might be a reason not to do this.

    also, did you guys glue your plywood to the stringers this time?

    Rickr or Salty87, how much fiberglass and resin did you guys need for the sole?

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    152

    Default

    macpres
    I added a brace in each corner of the lower engine cowl (no screws). Now I can lift it out for easier access to the bilge.

    Ran a bead of epoxy/cabo putty to the stringers before placing the plywood down. Then used a syringe to fill the predrilled screw holes. Fastened with flat head screws before the final layer of glass.

    Not sure how much resin. Guessing, 2 gallons would do it.

    You may want to start a post in the "Service and Repair Forum" for more ideas. I am a novice

  9. #79
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rickr View Post
    Anyone know what this is?
    Center panel under bow. It's threaded????????
    Not sure if you figured this out already or not, but that threaded thing is where you store the cap for the light bar when your using the light. Rarely every used mine anyway's lol... Great thread btw, I'm doing a 90' comp right now.

    Mike

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    104

    Default

    That is a shit load of work!! How long did it take you complete it all? After doing all that and looking back do you think it was worth it? You did one hell of a job! I do not know if would want to go through all of that!!


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