1989 Saltare - My god Spock, what have I done???

[TitanTn]

Sybr. Use this product on ANYTHING that looks old. Except clear coated surfaces. It will bring anything back to life. ALL you guys need this product if you own a boat. Use it on your old looking aluminium, copper chrome..it brings it back to life. If your Dad was in the army you will know about this product.

Jet - What product are you talking about?

[dusty2221]

Jet - What product are you talking about?

Lol, old "in-gear" gets excited and forgets things in his old age!

[jet]

Old age..your sittin on the couch resting your lil ankle and Im hittin a 30 mi marathon sat and just started training lastnight for it! lol. But yeah I forgot the link. :-p


http://www.nevrdull.com/

[devovino]

This never dull is amazing stuff, I used it on my CR 250 Aluminum frame, it made it look like a mirror! I will probably invest in another can to do some work on my rims of the boat trailor, they are Aluminum as well! Great Stuff!

[sydneyACE]

Mike, I used stainless bolts on my pump too. That's what was in there when I took it apart. One of the holes was also helicoiled too so that should say something I guess. LOL! Looking good, keep-up the hard work.

I'll race ya! Just kiddin... My boat is in an entirely different state than yours. We might be up and running about the same time, but yours is definately gonna be much better.

I'm just shooting to get mine in the water and driving. The rest will have to wait until next season.

[sybrmike]

I don't know about better. Whichever one hits the water first is the best.

I've got grand plans & an aggressive schedule for a lake mechanical test by May. I'm afraid it that checks out - I may spend the rest of the summer sitting on milk crate seats, listening to a boombox, & sporting a low profile look sans windshield.

Engine's painted (no pics yet), but found 3 of the 6 bushings in the motor mounts were split. Disassembled, blasted (thankfully, think I'm done with blasting!), painted, & drying in the sun - waiting for new bushings.

[sydneyACE]

Mike, at least yours has all new stringers and floor. Mine just has the two main ones where the engine mounts replaced, the rest is still crap. Plus your gel-coat prob looks much better.

This is what I was thinking for chairs:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/SKLZ-Sport...r-DLX/14895573
seriously... They are pretty damn comfy. Just screw-em into the old plywood. The umbrellas will be nice on hot or rainy days... Just kidding bout the umbrellas, but serious about the chairs. Should be more comfy than milk crates and you could take-em out for when you sit on the beach. Heheheh!

I know how you feel about the sandblasting. I'm about over it. I still need to do the "new" engine though, and the trans... *sigh* Oh well, I'm getting there.

I'm thinking end of April, beginning of May-ish for my first In-water test too.
Just got my registration done yesterday, my boat is "18ft 10in" cause 19ft and up was like twice as much. You guys wont tattle on me will ya?

Think I'm gonna copy and paste this on my thread cause it's a pretty good progress update...

[sybrmike]

Finished rebuilding the mounts & installed on the engine. Think I've finally got all the parts to start reassembling the engine this week.

Just a few touch ups left on the hull, but my arms are calling it quits on sanding/compounding/polishing - gonna hafta be good enough. Actually I think it turned out really nice & will take pics next time I pull it out of the garage.

New rudder & housing assembly is installed. Had to move all the holes 1/4" outward in the pattern (it was surplus NOS from now defunct Gekko), but coated all the openings with CPES, filled with 5200, and tightened the bolts real good. My Supra may develop an identity crisis - Gekko rudder, Moomba gauges, Mastercraft steering wheel, etc...

Finally finished trimming the floor panels for good carpet seams and pull rings, only to find the last of my HHR contact cement had set up. Hafta wait for more adhesive before I can finish carpeting.

A constructive weekend - that is until I started to fasten the top cap. Things must have shifted during the stringer/floor rebuild because now only about half the screw & rivet holes line up. I started running screws from the rear along both sides & could only go about up to the helm. Pulled all the screws, shifted the cap rearward a tad & now only the middle half of the holes line up & I'm not sure I'll be able to close the slightly larger gap at the transom. The cap still fits fairly tight & uniformly around the hull, but it's as if the holes magically shifted. Any of you "cap-off" resto boys run into this? Solutions? Also, how much of a gap (if any) did you have between the bottom edge of the rubrail and hull? I think I'm going to screw into holes that align in the middle section & then drill new holes in the hull towards the bow & stern. May just have a little more silicone under the transom rubrail.

[cadunkle]

Sounds like good progress! Hopefully you can get that cap fitment issue sorted. In any restoration I've found there are many little tedious roadblocks. I'd imagine it's a matter of your flooring might be slightly higher? I'm no export on boat restoration but I'd guess you just need to find out where it's hitting something and not letting the whole length drop into place, then grind for clearance if it's just a small amount.

How difficult and what was involved in the rudder swap? When I grab mine I can wiggle it around a bit side to side like the bushing is worn. I tightened the packing which didn't help, but it's not leaking. I've asked about this (this is my first inboard), and people say it's normal to have some play in the rudder, but I can't imagine they came from the factory like that. Doubt I'll bother with it this season, but it may be a project for next winter. Looks straightforward from the point of unbolt and grind out the old sealant, clean, bolt in replacement assembly with 5200?

[Okie Boarder]

sybr, I had a similar problem. I just drilled new holes for rivets and screws where needed and filled any big gaps with silicon. Also, the original base for the rub rail is kind of "L-shaped" so it covered the areas pretty good too. I'd find some sort of happy medium in you mind on where you want it to sit and go from there. I agree with your idea of letting it match up in the middle then adjust the front and rear. Is the front playpen and dash area setting down on the deck and getting good support when you do it that way?