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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Prior Lake, MN
    Posts
    24

    Default Cap removed

    Cap removal went very well. Five neighbors, home brew, and pictures by my bride. There were a couple wires I found needed cutting as we started to lift the cap off, otherwise it was great. We easily carried it out of the garage and to the back yard. For now it is sitting on the ground, but I will look to provide some gunnel support as recommended.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    2,159

    Default

    looks like everybody came over to play "poker", nice work........
    90 Conbrio

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    5

    Default

    looks good man i got one at the house just like it needs wotk as well so anything that you can post would be a tremendous help.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    Nice! That top must be a fair amount lighter than mine. I highly doubt we could have carried mine with 4-5 people.

    Now it's time to start tearing into it.

    What's your plan of attack or tearing down and rebuilding?

    BTW...that beer looks tasty. I love dark beers.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Prior Lake, MN
    Posts
    24

    Default Full floor and foam removal

    Removed the gas tank, vent hoses and some floor boards without any trouble last night. Next I plan to remove the rest of the floor boards and foam then drill test holes in the stringers to assess full or partial replacement. I can see there are multiples areas where I'll eventually need to decide whether to replace wood/fiberglass from the side of the hull for parts which aren't currently broken (stern - speedometer sensors, vent line box/elbow, tow/lift eyes etc.)

    So a few questions:
    1. Based on my approach above, pictures, do you have an opinion on whether I should cut out those areas I view as optional?
    2. Tell me more about grinding, since it was one of your least favorite things to do in the stringer replacement job and I don't have an appreciation for it.
    3. Any suggested plans / strategies for me moving ahead based on where I'm at?

    A couple lesson's learned:
    1. Wish I would've taken the cap off earlier. It's intimidating, but as soon as I knew I was going to replace big sections of the floor it would have saved me time on tinkering with gas tank removal and evaluation of floor/stringers.
    2. The cap on my '87 Supra Comp ts6m is not as heavy as other caps and may not require any support. I have it sitting on the ground in the back yard and so far it seems perfectly content.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

    Default

    Man, parts of that look waay too familiar.

    1. If by "optional" you mean the wood in the transom - chances are it's still good. Those pieces don't sit soaking in water except maybe at the very bottom near. Only the swim platform & tow eyes are really structural (not like an outboard transom). If you're talking stringers for a partial repair, then you'll have to cut back to good wood anyway.

    2. Grinding sucks!. When you cut out a stringer (or other), you'll have a lip of fiberglass - good for a reference line, but will have to be ground flush when you're ready to re-glass. Depending how much room you have in the area needing grinding, an angle grinder or belt sander with coarse (~80 grit) works pretty good. Makes a big mess everywhere. Dust mask, eye protection, long sleeves, etc. all mandatory.

    3. Measure, sketch, take pictures, measure again, etc. Read & re-read the excellent rebuild threads (Oakie, Salty, etc.) for ideas & potential gotcha's. Keep moving - you can easily fall into paralysis by analysis.

    Good luck
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    1. I would assess the situation on your "optional" areas to work on. If it is wood glassed over, you might drill some pilot holes and see if the wood is wet. If it is wet, I'd replace it. If not, drill a few extra small holes and inject CPES in there to help plasticize the wood and help aid against future rot.

    2. Yes, grinding sucks! Wear a tyvek suit and use a good respirator. I also would wear latex gloves and tape the seam at my wrist. I found the 24 and 36 grit sanding discs worked best for me. I went through around 50 of them. Make sure wherever you are going to glass you get the tinted resin off and I would suggest grinding past any glass that was laid atop the hull from the original stringers.

    3. Measure like crazy and think about how you're going to ensure you get things put back in right. A you can see in my thread, I did the stringers one at a time. That helped me ensure I got them placed in the right spot and to the right height for the floor. Try to cut stringers out carefully and as close to the hull as possible so you can use them as a template for cutting the new ones. I would recommend using doug fir and putting CPES on every piece of wood you put in there. I would also recommend using epoxy resin since it will be less likely to let water in. If you're going to foam, I'd probably build the framework without drains. That seems to be the general consensus on another forum I'm on with guys that have a lot of experience with rebuilds.

    Also, keep yourself a good stock of beer so you can spend some time sipping a beer and staring into the boat to think about your next steps.

    As far as working on it, I would definitely try to dedicate as much time as you can. It does take a lot of hours to get it done, but if you constantly put in a few hours here and there it progresses along very well.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Prior Lake, MN
    Posts
    24

    Default Selling boat part way through restore

    I'm going to list this boat for sale ($2k) as I'm just not motivated to finish the restore now that I have a different boat. I've already posted on craigslist, let me know if you're interested.

    http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/da...248843471.html
    Last edited by 87 Supra Comp TS6m; 03-05-2011 at 04:51 PM.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Back to Dallas!
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Is this thread dead then??
    89' Comp rebuild thread:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...1923456&type=3

    89' Comp Mod's and fun pic's:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...6666464&type=3

    89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
    4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
    Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
    JL-Kicker Amps 2000 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I'll give you a thousand.

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