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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Ma/Nh
    Posts
    126

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    yeah, currently my biggest fear is that the split or the extensions will put up a ton of spray and drench the rider, but there's only one way to find out!

    Boat goes in the water in just under 2 weeks...

    I was originally not going to split the plate, but I was worried that the actuators wouldn't move at exactly the same speed, and the twist would cause damage to the plate or, much worse, the hull. I picked up a sheet of aluminum to make a replacement stock-setup plate, in case it all goes terribly wrong

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Back to Dallas!
    Posts
    1,845

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    When surfing, the supras they like the plate to be about 70-90% in the up position for a bigger wave, and the down position will flatten out the wave. Yours seams to be limited in the upper positions because of the long arms. Im worried this might FLATTEN the wave for you. Does anybody else see this problem? Jet
    89' Comp rebuild thread:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...1923456&type=3

    89' Comp Mod's and fun pic's:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...6666464&type=3

    89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
    4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
    Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
    JL-Kicker Amps 2000 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

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    Keep us posted! I do really want to split my plate, but the spray issue concerns me.

    If I can find the right material (scrap ballast bag?), I'm thinking of fabbing a flexible rubber "deflector" sheet to span the gap. Idea is to force the spray down & back instead of shooting a rooster tail out the side. You can build in enough slack to just stretch tight at full differential deflection & then have a loose loop on top when parallel - might look goofy, but functional?

    Still not convinced how much effect split plates will have on list trim since they're centered on the hull, but I want to find out. Could be a cool way to help tweak a surf wave. I also am concerned about accidentally torquing the plate & ripping things apart. Sure, I could just wire both actuators to a single switch, but where's the fun in that???

    That's one of the things I like about these projects - a chance to be creative & try things (like Oldman's rebuild).
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Central California
    Posts
    44

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    I think Mastercraft is using a twin plate setup on some of their boats this year specifically for surfing. Also, if you are using two electric actuators, you will probably want two separate switches. The motors may not move at exactly the same speed, and the plates will end up at different levels (really bad if you are doing this with a single plate). I like the idea of the separate plates for surfing and the idea about putting a piece of ballast bag material in the middle sounds good to keep the spray to a minimum. I am really interested to see how this works for you. Good luck!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

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    Matt, I don't want to hijack - but can I piggy back?

    Looks like you've got "long" Lenco's, thus the need for the extensions (creative solution btw). I've got "short" Lectrotabs with only 1.5" of travel (knew I had limited space under the platform). My question is how should I allocate my travel. I think most factory plates are set up not to extend down past parallel with the hull bottom & remember from another post that the upward travel is ~ 1.25". I'm leaning towards 1/4" down & 1-1/4" up, but wonder if I should go 1/2" down & 1" up to give differential actuation a better chance at working? But I don't want to limit my upward travel in case that extra 1/4" makes a difference in letting the rear end sink down for wake board/surfing? Let me know how your sea trials go - I'm anxious to drill some more holes in my boat.

    Yeah Purple, the MC's surf tabs are located farther apart which gives them more leverage to work with. Also, the newer v-drive crossover hulls have more of a vee so they list side to side easier. Don't know how much effect split tabs will have on list control since they're in the center of a hull that is basically flat at the transom (originally built for flat ski wakes) - but we'll find out.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Ma/Nh
    Posts
    126

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    piggyback away I'm always happy to hear thoughts/questions/etc.

    I am not sure about the allocation of available trim. I honestly just guessed, and basically set my system up so that just-up-from-horizontal was near the middle position on the actuators. Jet, you may be right, but I believe I have more "up" available on these than I ever used on the manual adjusters. The manual states that it should be horizontal for slalom, should never go below horizontal, and should also never be raised more than a half inch. Maybe they just say that because in 1987, nobody wanted a big wake, but I have way more than a half inch available, I think. As I look at the pictures I took, they really don't seem to show a good look at what the extremes are, I'll try to take a pic when I'm back up at the lake this weekend.

    If my allocation is WAY off, i can always drill out the rivets and move the extension arms, or just re-drill them.

    It probably would have been smart of me to do some testing to figure that all out before I installed these, but the lake was still frozen, and I was impatient!
    Last edited by matt k; 05-11-2011 at 05:52 PM.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

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    Thanks for the ride I removed my plate, cut it in half, & re-pinned the halves back on the hinge. I'm waiting for Viper to send me two correct platform angle brackets so I can finish the platform install and see exactly how much room I've got for the actuators underneath.

    Think I'm gonna play it safe & run 1.25" up and .25" down. I've got a .25" gap between the plates & with only 1.5" of differential, it looks like the spray may not be too bad & the platform may help. Won't know till it hits the water, but I'll wait on the spray guard until I know it's necessary - I'm sure it can be done if needed.

    I think there was reasoning behind the limits in the original manual. Down past parallel really pushes the nose down since these old hulls already have a hook (reverse rocker) built in. Since the original plate was solid and only flexed, too much up travel may try to rip out all those mounting screws in the pocket - not a concern with a true hinge.

    Did you thru-bolt your top actuator mounts?
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Ma/Nh
    Posts
    126

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    yeah, i think i read somewhere that excessive nose-down trim make the boat likely to take water over the bow, and also makes it hard to control. I guess I'm used to outboards, where if you trim the nose down too much the ride sucks and the boat is slow, but nothing really 'bad' happens. I will have to do some testing!

    I did not thru-bolt the actuators, I just uses some beefy stainless screws. The manual for the tabs doesn't talk about thru bolting, and where mine mount, it's not particularly easy to get in there at the back either.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

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    I finished drilling 15 holes in my transom for the new thru-bolted platform brackets last night, so what's 8 more holes for the actuators? My original turnbuckles were thru-bolted so gonna do the same for the actuators this weekend. The manual for mine says to screw to the transom as well, but at 700-1000 lbs rated force each, I'm gonna play it safe. Hopefully I do it right (5200, backer plates, washers, & nylocks) because you're right - once the gas tank and ski locker go back in, it won't be convenient access.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Ma/Nh
    Posts
    126

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    how did you get the ski locker and gas tank out? It wasn't obvious how mine is supposed to come apart, it seems like the ski locker is sort of trapped in place by the upper deck unless i pulled the rear seat out. I didn't really try very hard to figure it out though.

    Anyway, just got back from my first test drive. Spray is a complete non-issue. High-speed stability is VASTLY improved, to the point where i can comfortably max it out now (it hits around 45 wide open).

    It appears that I pretty much blew it on "trim allocation" though. at full nose-up trim it's less nose-up than it was before the actuators, and one quick tap down from there is all the nose-down it will ever need (although I was the only one in the boat, with a full back seat, I estimate that i might want at most 1/3 of the nose-down that I currently have available). Beyond that the ride gets rough and handling rapidly starts to suffer. On the plus side, even trimmed full-down, I didn't feel like it was handling dangerously, nor anywhere near sinking the bow. Just harsh over the small waves on the lake, and with kind of a sluggish wallowing feel to the handling.

    I tried trimming the 2 tabs in opposite directions. It did make a difference, but not a very big one. It will probably be useful for fine-tuning the wake for symmetry, but it seems extremely unlikely that it'd sink one corner far enough to make a surfing wake. The tabs are just too close together and near the centerline.

    So, I need to drill a few rivets out and move the extensions back a bit to adjust my trim allocation. I think what I have is probably something like from 1 inch down to 1 inch up, and what i need is more like .25 down (at most) to 1.75 up. Should be a pretty easy afternoon job, but I left my riveter at home, so it'll have to wait!
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