Restoration progress (with pics)

[TitanTn]

Thanks guys. I did some testing tonight. My ground tests out perfect. The size of cable depends on the length of run and at 2 gauge I'm at least a double more than what the requirement is. And all of the cables are new. I reconnected the resistor after getting the warning from SSA.

I ran it for a while in the driveway tonight and after letting it run for almost 15 minutes, the starter was still very cool. I really think the wiring setup which had the alternator feeding back through the post on the starter was the issue. I turned it off several times and restarted and about created a fire with the wire from the solenoid to the starter. It's one I had simply moved into that location from the old configuration and it was definitely too small of a gauge. I replaced it with some leftover 2 gauge wiring and tried it again. Success - at least on land. It definitely turned over much faster, and I seemed to have conquered the hot starter issue. Only a true lake test will tell me for sure, but that'll come this weekend.

[haugy]

Okay, correct me if I'm wrong. But I plan on getting one of the DB electrical high-amp alternators this year.

But wouldn't you want to wire the main line back to the battery feed and then run a new line from the battery feed to the starter versus what you were doing?

You have to understand I'm electronically stupid.

[TitanTn]

Okay, correct me if I'm wrong. But I plan on getting one of the DB electrical high-amp alternators this year.

But wouldn't you want to wire the main line back to the battery feed and then run a new line from the battery feed to the starter versus what you were doing?

You have to understand I'm electronically stupid.

My problem is that I figure everything out, and then forget everything a month later. So I'm always relearning things. But I'm feeling pretty good about understanding my current setup. So I think you're close in your description, it's just that there's a solenoid between the battery feed and the starter. So I'm only sending power to the starter when it actually needs to be starting the engine. The previous setup was a lazy way of connecting everything together. It worked as long as I didn't have a high amp alternator.

[TitanTn]

Switched speeds and started decals on the trailer. I'm not done, but I'm also not sure exactly where it's going.

[Jetlink]

Switched speeds and started decals on the trailer. I'm not done, but I'm also not sure exactly where it's going.

To the lake is my guess...

[TitanTn]

Freshly waxed and ready for our summer lake vacation.

[codemonkey82]

Titan, great job on the boat! I have really enjoyed reading and following this thread. I am in the process of rebuilding my 89 pro comp. I took two week off of work and hope to be able to get the bulk of the structural work done. I have a few questions...

1. What weight cloth did you use to glass in the stringers and the cross members (I was thinking 17 oz. bi-axial cloth)?
2. When I put in the new floor do I use a light weight cloth on the bottom of the plywood or do I just coat it with epoxy resin and glass in the top?
3. I like the idea of gluing in the floor board instead of screwing it in. What type of glue should I use?
4. What did you do in place of the original plastic 'foot pan' under the dash in front of the drivers seat? Once I tore into this area I noticed a lot of rot and then found that Supra decided that they would drill a drain hole under the pan through the stringer (leading into the bilge area). If I put the pan back in I was thinking of fixing a pvc pipe as a drain running from the pan directly into the bilge area?
5. What do I use to seal any of the 'through holes'? For instance, the plates and bolts that go through the transom for the deck, the bolt holes in the bottom of the hull for the fins etc. (please see pictures)
6. For the bilge area I have seen people who have used both bilge coat and garage epoxy. Due to the ease and availability of the garage paint is that a good option and does it hold up well?
7. What should I put down on the floor over the fiberglass? I have seen people who are in favor of marine epoxy paint and people who prefer gel coat...

I'm sorry for posting so many questions in your thread but it looks like you have been through all of this and I needed some quick replies as I am in the middle of this project and the clock is ticking

Here is my thread which includes recent photos of the project if you need to see...

https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...omp-TS6M/page3

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[codemonkey82]

Do you know how much cloth and resin you needed? I'm going to order everything at once and need a ball park on how much of each cloth and total resin.

[TitanTn]

Thanks! It's been a labor of love - and hate. Here are some answers that will hopefully help some.

1. I used biaxial cloth - don't remember the weight. But I also used CSM. You'll need some of both.
2. People have done it both ways. I just epoxied the bottom and I'd do it the same way again.
3. I used PL Construction glue.
4. I don't have a foot pan. Those only came in the Comps (maybe the Conbrio)
5. Either 5200 or 4200 depending if you think they'll ever need to come out again.
6. I used an agricultural enamel paint. It's held up well. If my bilge were not accessible, I might have used bilge paint, but knowing I could touch it up if necessary, I went with enamel.
7. This one is up to you. I put carpet and wouldn't consider anything else. But either of those options will work as well.

I hope that helps. I don't remember how much material I ordered, but it wasn't enough. I needed slightly more cloth and a lot more resin. The cloth REALLY soaks up the resin, so if you are conservatively figuring up your resin needs - I'd double it.

[DKJBama92Mariah]

Freshly waxed and ready for our summer lake vacation.

That looks amazing. Job well done. Before going on vacation, consider putting spare belts, a fuel filter, an impeller, and a small crescent wrench under one of the seats for any eventualities. Never hurts to be prepared, especially far from home.