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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,393

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    That system looks overly expensive. Skidim sells a set of drain valves that mount directly to the block and manifolds for about $80 IIRC. You could probably get brass ball valves at the hardware store for 1/3 that cost to do the same thing, even plub them all into a larger hose that you can drop out your drain plug and not even drain the engine into the bilge.

    I considered doing one of these systems myself but worried about valves getting plugged and having to pull them out and use a pick to be sure the drains are clear. Mine is direct drive so it only takes like 10 minutes to pull the plugs. For a vdrive with limited access to the plugs I would consider valves if you pushed into freeze season and needed to drain it a lot.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

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    I agree on draining. Just sucking up antifreeze is probably good, but how do you do a "check" during this process for corrosion or debris.

    Also, IIRC, there is no need to remove the t-stat if you pour in antifreeze.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Whidbey Island Washington
    Posts
    501

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    I have the equivelant to the SkiDim setup. Petcock drains on each exhaust manifold, two petcock drains on each side of the engine block, and one petcock drain on the raw water intake U-tube. Easy squeezy.
    Rick Ludtke
    1990 Supra Pirata
    1987 Supra Comp TS6M
    Photo Album https://forum.supraboats.com/album.php?albumid=4

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Parkersburg, WV
    Posts
    1,940

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    I guess I'll throw in my .02 cents. A few years ago, I replaced the block plugs and j-pipe plug with brass allen-head plugs. I also replace the exhaust manifold plugs with brass face-bushings and brass allen-head plugs. I loctited the face-bushings where they thread into the cast iron manifolds so that the brass-on-brass threads between the face-bushing and plug would free easily from season to season.

    The procedure is to remove all plugs (5 total) and drain the block, j-tube and exhaust manifolds. Then I remove both ends of the hose that goes between my trans cooler and raw water pump (leave this unhooked over the winter). Then I remove the impeller from the raw water pump and leave it out all winter so that it doesn't take a "set".
    Once everything is drained, I remove the hose at the outlet of the raw water pump - this is what I will use to fill the block with RV antifreeze. Install the plug in the j-tube and begin pouring antifreeze through a funnel that is connected to the hose you just removed. Fill the block until the pink antifreeze begins to come out of the block drains - first the port side then the starboard side. Plug the drains tight when antifreeze starts to come out. Then continue filling the block until you get anitfreeze coming out the manifold drains - then plug them tight. Then I add a little more for good measure. It will take nearly 2 gallons of the pink stuff to do this. What I do now is use the cap from one of the anitfreeze jugs to cap the hose that I used to fill the motor - it fits good and tight!
    Now you're set for the winter and all you have to do in the spring is install the impeller, re-connect the hoses and away you go!
    Clint
    Wake the World - West Virginia
    www.waketheworldwv.com

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