May have ruined my engine! any ideas?

[supracalifragilistic]

the intake manifold is still attached or i guess stuck would be a better way to put it. the heads are ready to come off but i havent taken them off yet. i have a buddy coming over tomorrow to look at it and give me his opinion.

[cadunkle]

Depends on your budget.If you have $2000-$3000 to spend on this I'd do a full mild performance build. Unless you say otherwise I'll assume a full build would be your

When you get the heads off you should disassemble them. Check the condition of the valves, seats, and guides. If the valve guides are still tight, and the valves and seats are too heavily pitted or worn, you can probably get away with just lapping the valves and throwing new seals on there.

For the short block, pull the pistons and check the the condition of the skirts, rings lands, and cylinder walls. If no deep scoring on the cylinders (as in you can drag your fingernail over it and catch in the groove) and the pistons are in good condition, you can consider a re-ring. Measure the taper on each bore before deciding to re-ring. Under .003" is good, .005" is the max taper I would try to run if I was on a real tight budget and didn't want to spring for a bore and pistons.

Hone the old bores before reinstalling pistons with new rings. If you're closer to .005" taper try to hone the bottoms more to lessen the taper. The greater the taper, the more quickly the new rings will fatigue, resulting in blowby and lost compression.

Also check bearing and crank journal condition. For the bearings if you see copper they're toast. Good rule of thumb again is the fingernail test. Any grooves on the crank journals you can catch your fingernail in are bad and means the crank should be turned.

[supracalifragilistic]

I pulled the intake manifold off today and the block had a pretty big spot of what looks like jb weld applied to the top of it where the head gasket sits.
im wondering if the guy we bought the boat from did this right before he sold it to us or if it had been there for a while. looks like i will be pulling the engine to further examine if that is the problem

[supramariah#1]

Ahhhh not JB Weld. I curse the day that stuff was made. Works awesome on a lot of things for short time but people fix things temporarily and sell it. Sorry about that man. I am sure that fix wasnt disclosed. I do think this calls for a crate motor. it will help with depression also!

[Jetlink]

Ahhhh not JB Weld. I curse the day that stuff was made. Works awesome on a lot of things for short time but people fix things temporarily and sell it. Sorry about that man. I am sure that fix wasnt disclosed. I do think this calls for a crate motor. it will help with depression also!

If you get a crate motor, my advice is to take the old one out back and go all "Office Space" on it to help take some anger out.

[supracalifragilistic]

what do you guys think about using a block from chevy truck vs a marine block. i have searched the topic alot and have found so many mixed reviews.

[cadunkle]

I'll qualify this by saying I've never build a BBC. I've done many small block Fords, 385 series Fords, and a couple SBC, but never a BBC.

That being said, I would have no problem running a car or truck block in a marine engine. I've done it before for other engines with no problem. Differences are typically very minor, if any at all.

Post pics of that epoxied area. It might be someone sealed up the backside of a oil galley plug or something like that. That type of thing is not uncommon to find. If it is epoxy, remove it and see what's underneath. With water in the oil though, I'd suspect the block froze at one point and some cheap schmuck epoxied it rather than fix it.

[wotan2525]

I personally think that running a street block is OK. Make sure you use marine heads and cam, though.

[cadunkle]

Heads are no different than a block, fine to use automotive. Cam "marine" is just a term. There's nothing special about a "marine" cam. We're looking at intake and exhaust duration, LSA, and overlap. You're concerned about reversion in a marine application. Going anything more than a pretty mild "marine" cam will result in the same reversion issues you're have with anything more than a mild automotive cam.

So long as your lifters aren't all mushroomed and the lobes scores up you can reuse your original cam. If you want some more power or if yours is toast you can get another. Keep it mild though. Too much and you'll need some taller risers or extensions before the water and exhaust mix to prevent reversion. No need for a crazy cam in a wake boat though as you are looking for lower RPM torque.

[Safety Bob]

I have a 427 tall deck truck block on a stand in my garage now. Looking to do a stroker moter with a forger steel crank, 4340 forged steel extra length rods and forged pistons. I am looking to keep the compression at 10 or under. I am not sure on the cam yet. I was going to contact a cam builder and provide the specs on my '88 Saltare. Any ideas on whether I should go flat tappet hydraulic or roller? In all likelyhood probably going to a 496 or possibly a 540. Not sure yet on whether to go old school iron performance heads such as an 840 w/ rectangular ports or new aluminum designed for max flow. I may go aluminum oval port as I will not need high rpms which is usually what you are asking for with a rectangular port head. I will be going with a tall deck intake and in all likelihood a holley on top. Any suggestions? Looking for @ 500+ hp loaded with low rpm torque to jump the big girl out of the hole! Beast, are you out there? I know you are running a 496. How is yours set up? You have got to love all that power!