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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

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    Quote Originally Posted by sybrmike View Post
    It might be possible to do without removing the tank on yours, but I can't imagine attempting this on my Salt with the tank in place.
    I replaced my steering cable with the tank in place and it was a huge mistake. There's no way in HELL I'd try to replace the rudder without pulling the tank.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    2,159

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    Quote Originally Posted by wotan2525 View Post
    I replaced my steering cable with the tank in place and it was a huge mistake. There's no way in HELL I'd try to replace the rudder without pulling the tank.
    I'll put my vote in on pull'in the tank, especially if its a Mariah...if a guy with a Salt is telling us it's needed, then........
    90 Conbrio

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,393

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    I can't see doing on a Saltare without pulling the tank. I mean, technically it's possible, but it may be more aggravation than it's worth. Removing the little access panel behind the doghouse it's about all I can do to contort myself and crawl under the floor to reach the adjusting nuts for the rudder packing. I can see working this way taking more time than pulling the tank. Very limited mobility when you're under there, and you have to come half out to reposition your arms and such. If you're a bigger guy or have back issues, forget about it.

  4. #14

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    Wow thanks guys. I actually just removed all the sections in the floor and greased er up. It removed tons of the slop that was in before. I havent taken it out yet but I will be this weekend. I will see how it goes and run all the gas out of the tank (or close) so if I do replace it I can take the tank out. I can get the grease in it but no way can I get my arms in there enough to remove it. I workout too much my arms are huuuggee! (lol kidding) I really cant tell if the rudder is bent or the bearing housing is messed up. Gotta take it apart. I will go down to my local boat shop to see what they can get me other than what SKIDIM has, plus i am looking for a better altitude get up and go prop. Anyhow, my basement also just flooded (seriously 4 ft of water) so I dont have time to fix it right away. I just greased it and trying it. It looks like it was never greased in years! lol I mean really!? GRRR. I put 6-7 pumps of grease in it. I don't understand why people even buy boats if they arnt gonna take care of them. Some people cant but then dont take them into a good shop. The boat just wastes away. This irritates a person who puts grease zirks on everything for longevity. (me)

    HAHA to working under the dash. Mine Mariah is easy to work behind the dash. ONce you contort yourself around the seat and fit into the fort like area under the dash where your feet go. gettting out was quite a magic trick.

    Good thing of the weekend. De-winterizing went super well. Sounds awesome. Everything is really dried out.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    221

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    I'll be replacing mine tonight with the same unit as ngavdba, I'll let you know how it goes. I am hoping not to have to drill out the hole any larger, but I have a template made up to guide the drill bit if I have to. Also installing an 18" extension tube on the zerk fitting, so I run that up near the rear seat or something, rather than crawling under there to grease it. With the new cable I put in last season, this thing should steer like new.

    Marine Hardware says their new design is "self lubricating" with no grease fitting. I've heard that before... it's intriguing but I'd rather have the option to add grease if needed. Skidim still has the style with the grease fitting.
    1989 Bravura - repowered with 2001 PCM 351 GT-40 - 1.23:1 PCM Trans.
    1989 comp - sold
    1985 comp - sold

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    221

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    So it turns out that Marine Hardware knows what they're talking about and even Skidim didn't know they had the newer style rudder with no grease fitting. SO bottom line, the new rudder in my '89 has no grease fitting. It fit in the existing holes with no problem, no drilling, and I even used the old inside backing plate.

    Test drive: this is the best upgrade I have ever done to this boat, or any vehicle for that matter. This boat drives like a brand new ski boat. I have driven a huge variety of boats, and my 89 bravura now steers as well as any of them, it is absolutely fantastic. One finger steering at any speed, a little harder to the right (naturally) and not a single drop of water comes in through the rudder port. 100% worth the effort and money ($376 shipped from skidim) as long as you're not paying labor. And even then, honestly, this is such a difference that it would have been worth a lot more than $376.

    Granted my rudder was in bad shape, but I highly recommend taking a long look at your rudder if you have easy steering at idle but hard steering at speed.

    Happy Memorial Day!
    1989 Bravura - repowered with 2001 PCM 351 GT-40 - 1.23:1 PCM Trans.
    1989 comp - sold
    1985 comp - sold

  7. #17

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    Update for me as well. After greasing and a very very little manipulation on the boat. it drives soo much better it is crazy. i can use one hand again. Not on finger but its better. it does turn harder to the right. i coudlnt easily do turn around for someone and now i can either direction. i will be lubing this rudder a few times a year. prolly replace it when it gets bad again with grease. i just extended it life a few more years. SWEET! really cant believe no one ever greased the darn thing. ugh!

    Great news riveredge. Thanks for your update on the new rudder. I will be buying one of those in the future and now i know what to expect!

  8. #18

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    I'm about to re-install my fixed rudder and I was wonderin: What keeps water from migrating up through the space between the post and housing? Is there a seal I need to worry about? Also, My trailer has a rear skag right at the rudder housing that's preventing me from installing it. Was thinking bottle jacks on the skag to lift the boat. Any thoughts?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    221

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    @supramariah - it sounds like your problem is 95% due to lubrication, and you're all set. I wouldn't rush to replace anything, maybe put in a remote zerk fitting so you don't have to crawl in there quite as much.

    @neilmcg - lots of caulking, put a nice bead around the post on the outside, and around each bolt hole, then in each bolt hole. Use either 3M 4200 or 5200. 4200 is my choice, if the parts ever have to come off, 4200 won't take the gelcoat with it, and it will keep water out just as well. Jacking up the boat on the trailer could work, but how much room do you need? Lift the boat from the ground, not the trailer. If you are near a ramp, you could launch the boat and move it back on the trailer just a bit. You just wouldn't want to trailer very far... I'm spoiled with access to a forklift for this type of thing...
    1989 Bravura - repowered with 2001 PCM 351 GT-40 - 1.23:1 PCM Trans.
    1989 comp - sold
    1985 comp - sold

  10. #20

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    If I put a bead on the post itself, won't that impede its motion as it cures?

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