I need trailer help....

[Blackntan90]

I did the brake lines/hoses and master pretty early on as well- it is scary as hell getting pushed through a red light in a half ton truck because your trailer just blew out a rusted brake line!! When I replaced the line going through the frame from the tounge back to the front axle, I found that is where it had rusted through. So I painted the lines(old ones were not!) and put a couple of short lengths of hose over it to prevent chafe inside the frame where you cannot secure it in any way(other than spray foam!) It is a crappy job, but if you have the right tools(double flare tool,line wrench), it is well worth it!

[wotan2525]

I did the brake lines/hoses and master pretty early on as well- it is scary as hell getting pushed through a red light in a half ton truck because your trailer just blew out a rusted brake line!! When I replaced the line going through the frame from the tounge back to the front axle, I found that is where it had rusted through. So I painted the lines(old ones were not!) and put a couple of short lengths of hose over it to prevent chafe inside the frame where you cannot secure it in any way(other than spray foam!) It is a crappy job, but if you have the right tools(double flare tool,line wrench), it is well worth it!

My lines are painted and don't show any sign of rust... but.... How did you run the new line into the frame? Mine looks like it was put in before the coupler was welded on.

[cadunkle]

Note what I did to help with the low clearance / scraping problem is first get larger tires... 205/75/15 IIRC (i may be mistaken, my memory isn't what it used to be) and then got a sheet of 3/4" UHMW plastic, countersunk some holes into it and bolted it to my prop gaurd. Now when she scraped she glides and just scuffs the UHMW sheet. Guys at the gas station gave me dirty looks all the time before that. haha

[haugy]

Note what I did to help with the low clearance / scraping problem is first get larger tires... 205/75/15 IIRC (i may be mistaken, my memory isn't what it used to be) and then got a sheet of 3/4" UHMW plastic, countersunk some holes into it and bolted it to my prop gaurd. Now when she scraped she glides and just scuffs the UHMW sheet. Guys at the gas station gave me dirty looks all the time before that. haha

Great idea!! I've been trying to think of what I could bolt to my guard that wouldn't tear apart after two drags. Thanks.

[scottchapin]

I've thought about putting these on, welding them to the bottom of the prop gaurd.
: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-weld-on/49078

[haugy]

Seeing how most of my drags are when I'm turning out of somewhere, fixed wheels won't help much since it will be going across the wheel instead of with it.

Plus, that will cut your clearance by about 2 inches.

[SuperSaltAir]

Just an FYI I just did the master cylinder on my boat got all the air out of the system hooked the boat up to the truck
slammed on the brakes once got her up to speed again slammed on the brakes again and when I went to try and get going again it just felt like there was something holding the truck back. Pulled up in to the driveway and all 4 wheels of the trailer ware locked up. It ended up that all 4 of the brake caliper cylinders ware rusted from sitting around for years when the actuator was not working and now that I had it fixed it had enough power to push the shoos out but the springs could not pull them back in and my tires would not spin. To fix them was cheap and easy you can just hone the cylinders which is what I did since it was sun and I could not get the replacement parts but they sold the tool at outozone or you can replace the part itself its about 10$. And I would also recommend changing the brake shoos once I had everything fixed and working right the 20 yrs old shoos delaminated and the wear surface fell of the metal.

[wotan2525]

Thanks! Here's where I stand right now....

I replaced the master cylinder and the brake line going across the axle. Also replaced the shoulder bolt and the push-rod mechanism that activates the master cylinder.

Of course I found out that the main line was rusted solid, so I pulled out the old steel line (how they ever got that in the frame, I'll never know.) I've ordered a new flexible line to run through there. Also ordered a new to latch mechanism since that will be almost the last moving part to be replaced and I might as well go whole hog at this point.

I pulled the hubs off and gave all of the drum mechanisms a good shot of WD40 to try and loosen them up. I'm worried that the wheel brake cylinders are going to be rusty, but I'm not sure how to address that besides just pumping them full of fluid and seeing what happens.

Additionally, I finally picked up my own tow vehicle. It's not pretty to look at, but I was driving past a farm and the guy had a 1993 F-250 parked outside for $600. I got him down to $400 and it's mine. Picked up a class IV hitch and spent a few hours getting it bolted on. Paid the DMV their bullcrap $230 for registration and gave it a go. It works awesome!! So happy to finally have my own truck.... The F250 pulls it really well and with a few little tweaks it should work out for a while.

[SuperSaltAir]

This is what I did to mines.Pull the cylinders off they are bolted from the back. Use compressed air to to blow the piston out I just took my air blower with a cone shaped rubber nosle on the end put it on where the brake line goes and blow. BE CAREFUL DOING THIS IT WILL SHOOT THE PISTON OUT LIKE A SHOT GUN POINT IT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION OR WRAP IT IN A HEAVY RAG OR SOMETHING. The piston consist of tree parts metal piston and a rubber gasket behind it and a spring. Once u have the pistons out take your brake caliper honing stones that you got from your local auto parts store put it on a drill and hone the cylinder. I used lots of brake cleaner and compressed air to keep everything clean including the stones. When you have everything honed and clean put back together and mount on the trailer. You can take this anyway you want but I learned the hard way that if you half ass this and don't do it and one of your pistons gets stuck in the open position you will end up with alot more damage to your trailer later on. When mines locked up I ended up having to buy a new drum new pads new bearings and a bearing seal sleeve kit. It overheated the hub and the bearing gave out and just wiped everything out I almost ended up having to replace the axle but I got lucky that I could find a sleeve kit to fix the seals. And this all happened withing 2 miles of my house.

[wotan2525]

Yikes... Thanks! I'll make sure to clean and hone that out.... I assume I have to pull the hubs and wheels to get to the wheel cylinder? Or will they come off the back without pulling the hubs?