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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default Winterizing Ford 351 in a Comp

    As the thread title says, looking at really going hands on with my boat this fall and winterizing it myself, not yet as we still have a few more weeks down here to enjoy. I did a quick search, of course I looked through the sticky that was posted from the Moomba site. Just curious to the fellow direct drive guys out there what you do different from it and how you service the trans. Any help and insight is greatly appreciated so I can start researching and gathering any additional tools and parts I need for the job. Also, when I had it professionally winterized last year, the dealer put anti-freeze in the system, do any of you do that?

    Thanks in advance guys.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    2,127

    Default

    Here's what I do with my boats.

    Plan to do this on a day where you will have been on the lake for a few hours. The point being you want to get your motor nice and warm, get everything in the motor loose and moving. By running it through the water, it breaks up anything that might have built up over the last week or two.

    Run the boat for a while letting it run real well. Then pull it, and start your winterizing procedure.

    1) Pull the main hull plug and have the trailer set so it can all drain out, you're about to get more water in there.

    2) Now, start the boat for a minute. Yes, it's bad for the impeller to run it dry, but only for a minute max. Since I replace the impeller each year, I know it's okay. But run it too long and the impeller will shred and parts of it can jam the cooling system. The goal of this is to pull any water in the cooling lines out, and to blow out as much excess water as possible.

    3) Then remove the cooling line above the impeller to allow any water to drain out, instead of into the impeller housing. Also remove the bottom line from the transmission cooler to allow any water to drain out of it, and to let it breathe.

    4) Remove the water plugs on the back bottom sides of the exhaust manifolds.

    5)Remove the water bolt drain on the side of the block, it will be a small square head bolt on the side of the main block, a little water should drain out. This is a cooling passage that you can use to flush the cooling system if you ever need to.
    *side note* Now many people remove all the hoses, and do much more to prepare for winter. I don't as I get the most of the water out through this process. Since the motor is hot, and I flush out most of the excess, opening up the engine allows the rest to evaporate out. What you're trying to do is make sure there is no where the water can pool up, especially in the block or metal components like the Transmission cooler or impeller housing.

    6) Remove the raw water filter and ensure it's dry. It's plastic, so ice won't do well.

    7) Now, most water should be out of the engine and allowing air into the block, exhausts, and components. Also most water will be flushed out the back. This is a great time to make sure any water in the hull is drained out, and dry to prevent moisture or mold build up. Then tilt the trailer up as high as it will go to ensure any water in the exhaust drains out.

    8.) Oil. Don't change it now. I never understood why anyone would change the oil, and then let it sit for 6 months. Oil sitting still collects moisture. Any moisture in the motor (which there is) drains down to the oil pan, thus thinning it out. So why would you change your oil, only to then run weak watered down oil next summer? Oil needs to be changed before you run it next year, not before it sits there doing nothing. It won't protect the motor that doesn't run.

    9) Carb'd engines I will pour a little SeaFoam down the carb. Another reason for a nice warm motor is it will help the fuel evaporate from the bowls. You can prime the throttle a few times to ensure the jets are clear.

    10) Remove all spark plugs. This is a great time for new ones. Get your new plugs, and gap them. Before putting the new plugs in, spray engine fogger in the cylinders. I will use two whole cans on a V-8. One per side. It's oil, it will not hurt your engine. But I make sure I've got a good protective coating of oil on the cylinder walls. Then finger tighten the new plugs in. Do not tighten as you will want to do a shot of engine fogger again in the spring before you start the engine. Providing a nice pre-lubed surface while the oil pump tries to cycle fresh oil in and down the engine. Once the new plugs are finger tightened in, don't put the caps on, it will help you remember to not only spray more fogger, but to tighten the plugs in spring.

    11) Top off the fuel tank with Non-ethanol fuel if you can find it. That's much better for your fuel system. Top it off, and pour the rest of that SeaFoam in the tank to prevent water build up.

    12) Remove the battery from the boat, do not just disconnect it. Place it on a wood surface in the garage, or on a scrap piece of carpet. Do not just set it on the concrete. I will put a trickle (2amp) charge on it every two months, till fully charged. Before charging, make sure the battery is full of fresh water if it's a traditional battery.

    13) Make sure the boat is bone dry. If it's going to be in a spot where it will get rained on, or wet over the seasons, remove all cushions that you can. Not only will it help protect the vinyl, but will allow air movement to help prevent mildew.

    14) I put the trailer on jack stands to protect the tires, but that might be a wee-bit overboard for some.

    15) Top off the brake master cylinder on the trailer.

    If I forgot anything, I'll come back and edit it later. I typed this in a hurry. Winterizing is like masturbating, there are tons of ways to do it. And only you are going to do it the way you know best. Everyone has their own way of doing it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

    Default

    Thanks for the reply Haugy, real quick, what about your trans fluid? Do you service that at all or do you just make sure that the cooler has been drained of water? Luckily my boat is stored indoors for the winter, got a steal @ $250.00 for the entire winter. Only downside is that I am unable to put the trailer on jack stands to aleviate flat spotting the tires.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    1,593

    Default

    Ben,

    Not sure if your boat has a heater or an onboard shower -- those both need to be blown out and drained. I use the air compressor, and then run RV anti-freeze thru the lines
    2008 24 SSV, Gravity Games Edition.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Steamboat Springs, CO.
    Posts
    224

    Default

    i loosen my belts as well, or take them off. Whatever you do to winterize, make sure when your done your holding 5 plugs from your motor, 6 if you pull the tranny cooler plug instead of the hose. Good luck

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    syracuse Indiana
    Posts
    425

    Default

    "Why do you change oil in the fall"
    The reason is to remove the impurity's from the oil, ie carbon and acids which can form. These can attach the babbet brgs, ( main and rod) due to being alum and the crank being steel.
    Change the oils in the fall and change fuel filters in the spring.
    Stay away from shrink wrap, try to find heated storage.
    We store our boat inside all summer and winter, I have a temperture controlled storage, 30' x 12' doesnt go above 85 in summer or below 55 in winter. Al
    Supra Beast
    Custom 496 MPI HO 425 hp
    Custom Teak floor

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Geneva IL
    Posts
    402

    Default

    My manual says to change trans fluid when winterizing. You have to suck it out. Or pump it out of the filler hole. Then refill. I also put all the hoses and plugs back in after I drain engine. And refill with -100 marine antifreeze. Per owners manual.
    Chauncey 2000 Malibu Response LX Monsoon 325

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

    Default

    I do it a little different.
    1- I start by adding fuel stabilizer on the last day of use or at start of winterizing.
    2-Run the engine on the trailer with a hose when warm remove the spark arrestor and spray fogging oil into the carb while keeping the rpms up enough to keep it running. Keep spraying until at least 3/4 of the can is gone then lower rpms and kill the engine by choking it with the fogging oil. Remove batteries keep them as haugy posted.
    3-Start the oil draining from the hose attached to the oil pan through the center hull drain replace the filter [I do this the night before and let it drain over night. fill with 5 qts fresh oil.
    4-There are 5 drain plugs on your 351 2 at the rear of the exhaust manifolds 2 on the lower sides of the block mine are brass 9/16 hex head and 1 at the bottom of the cast iron U pipe connected to the circulating pump in the front of the engine.
    Remove them and drain all water.
    Remove the raw water pump split it and remove the impeller. If you are reusing it dont put it back or replace it in the spring. Remove the hose at the lower end of the trans cooler and drain the strainer bowl.
    5-Reinstall all drain plugs install a long funnel in the top hose of the raw water pump [it goes to the thermostat housing] pore 2 gallons of antifreeze [I use 50/50 mix green automotive antifreeze] in you will see a little come out the exhaust.
    6- Clean the flame arrestor with spray brake cleaner reinstall when dry.
    Now is a good time to do a complete cleaning including the bilge, interior, exterior and carpet wash wax and 303 the vinyl. Also go over the entire boat and tweak, tighten and repair everything you have been putting off during the season.
    In Chicago you wont have a mildew problem but its best to get the bilge as dry as possible [I use a wet vac to get the water out near the bilge pump.
    As for the trans oil it should be changed every 50 hours go to CorrectCraftFan forum click the reference box at the top of the home page then scroll down to the PCM manual for full procedure.
    I lived in your area for 30 years before moving to GA. The season here will go until Nov or Dec. This year we were in the water in Feb [dry suits] the water temp has started to cool off to 80 degrees air is bouncing between upper 70s and low 90s.
    I LUV it here.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Geneva IL
    Posts
    402

    Default

    Here is a cheap and effective way to run boat in driveway. All parts bought at lowes. Unhook hose on bottom of trans cooler. Take hose from bottom of bucket and hook to bottom of trans cooler. Hook garden hose to top of bucket. Turn on water and start boat. You are now sucking water in naturally instead of forcing it into the system.
    Chauncey 2000 Malibu Response LX Monsoon 325

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Flowery Branch Georgia
    Posts
    2,742

    Default

    Good deal foxriver, on my boat you would need to connect it to the top of the trans cooler. I just put a bucket down by the trans coupler and disconnect the hose at the hull fitting put the hose and water hose in the bucket and turn on the water.

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