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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Back to Dallas!
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    1,845

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    One draw-back to that method. It will work if everything on the engine is working perfect. But I was on a mali once where the tiny oil leak (supras are know for leaking in the back of the valve covers) was dripping on the exhaust and the oil smell was getting into the heater some how and it was chocking us to death. So any exhaust leaks or oil leaks would nix that method for me. Its just as simple to diy it and run it from the heater hose.
    89' Comp rebuild thread:
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    89' Comp Mod's and fun pic's:
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    89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
    4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
    Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
    JL-Kicker Amps 2000 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Central NC
    Posts
    214

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    Quote Originally Posted by wotan2525 View Post
    This kind of makes sense. Aren't the exhaust risers just giant heater cores, anyway??

    Yes I would agree. This way has worked for me for years on various engines.. A lot cheaper and easier to repair when needed.
    2006 LAUNCH 21V

    HARDCORE HYDROFOILING

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Central NC
    Posts
    214

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    Quote Originally Posted by jet View Post
    One draw-back to that method. It will work if everything on the engine is working perfect. But I was on a mali once where the tiny oil leak (supras are know for leaking in the back of the valve covers) was dripping on the exhaust and the oil smell was getting into the heater some how and it was chocking us to death. So any exhaust leaks or oil leaks would nix that method for me. Its just as simple to diy it and run it from the heater hose.
    Well...Turn off the blower and fix it!!

    I keep my equipment in perfect running order ALL the time. This method has kept my crew warm for over ten years.
    2006 LAUNCH 21V

    HARDCORE HYDROFOILING

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,393

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    Quote Originally Posted by jet View Post
    This is on my to-do-list also. But Im thinking $40 heater core, $29 blower and $30-$40 for heater and blower hoses. DIY-IT!!
    I'd like to do a total DIY on this if I can get my cost under half of that piecing together with a off the shelf auxiliary heater. I just need to find a ridiculously large heater core to do it, or use 2-3 smaller heater cores. benefit of using smaller heater cores could be less room and placing the heat closer to where it's needed. Heck, I could plumb one up front and another under the back seat. Probably overkill though. I'd rather just do one large heater core under the dash with 3-4 outlet hoses. That combined with the seat heaters in the front seats and I think we'd be golden.

    Anyone know what vehicles have large heater cores? The heater core in the Northern brand $192.43 heater I linked to is 2" x 6" x 14 3/8".

    Biggest I've found (so far) off the shelf is for a 1980 Ramcharger, which is a 2" x 7 7/8" x 12", which is more surface area than the Northern heater (86.25"^2 vs 94.50"^2). $75 at Advance (Ready-Aire), $59 at Autozone (Spectra).

    Not 100% on what to use to push air. Bilge blower may work, but may not be enough flow for a heater core this size... Might take two? Rule 4" 240 CFM blower from Wholesale Marine ... $25.17
    3" blower duct 20' from Wholesale Marine ... $18.26
    4" blower duct 10' from Wholesale Marine, since I can't flange mount a blower motor ... $9.90
    Shipping ... $13

    Heater hose, not sure on length yet... ballpark $15 (might have enough already)
    Two NPT ?? to 5/8" nipple ... maybe $5
    Sheet metal for making heater box... think I already have this

    So basically looking at a ballpark of $156.21, including sales tax and shipping where applicable. + another $8-$10 for a six of some beverages.

    To do the Northern heater the cost would be around $52.01 in parts + $192.43 for the heater unit + $19 shipping + $14.80 tax = $278.24.

    DIY saves me $122 over the semi-DIY using the Northern heater, and saves me $251.49 over the Heatrcraft unit from Skidim (using promo code), though that wasn't including shipping so maybe another $20 saved there on top of that.

    Those savings could of course change as I figure out for certain what to do to push air. Maybe another $25 to run dual 4" blowers would be better insurance? 240 CFM vs 480 CFM. Anyone know the CFM of a typical cage style blower motor in a car? I would imagine that would be a good flow number to match. Also, I forgot to add cost for foam to mount the heater core in the box... So add a few dollars for some foam from Home Depot or wherever, though I think I may have some laying around. Call it about a $160 project as of now.

    If anyone has an idea of how to do this better or cheaper, don't be shy. I would like to order this stuff today or tomorrow so there's a chance I could get it done for the weekend.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,393

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    For comparison sake, doing the blowers from the engine compartment to move warm ambient air around the engine would cost approx $103.74 for 3 blowers and some hose. I don't think the air coming off this would be as warm as that off a heater core, unless perhaps you make some sheet metal ducts for them to pull around the exhaust manifolds, similar to the hot air setup on many 60s through 80s cars to provide warm air to the carb on a cold start. I doubt if it would be that hot since the manifolds are water cooled and jacketed so you're not getting a transfer from a hot manifold like a car but rather a cooler water jacket.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    syracuse Indiana
    Posts
    425

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    Sorry, but I would have already had the heater installed and back on the water. lol Good luck Al
    Supra Beast
    Custom 496 MPI HO 425 hp
    Custom Teak floor

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,393

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    Al, point taken, but it's not keeping me off the water. I'd like to be sure I plan this correctly no matter which route I go, and being as I have the free time to make a heater box saving some money would be great. A couple hundred bucks is a lot to some of us.

    If I go with the big heater core from a Ramcharger, which is bigger than the Northern unit and maybe slightly bigger than the Heatercraft. So I'd leaning towards the DIY with the larger heatercore and much cheaper cost which would give me the option of doing the the heated seats while staying in my budget.

    Is under the dash the best place to put this? Not many places on the boat so all that comes to mind is under the dash, or in (or under) the dry storage compartment in front of the observer's seat. Here's what I have to work with under the dash...



    Some mounting options using a cardboard template cut 2" larger than the heater core on each side. Core is 2" deep, so I would expect my heater box to be 3"-4" deep. The black marker is the size of the heater core itself. The Ramcharger core I believe has the in/out both on same end facing same direction, so I would likely have them facing forward at the bottom for good drainage during winterization and easy connection through the floor to the engine. Idea would be 3 3" vents on front for heater out hoses and one or two 4" ports on back for blower motors... Or alternatively some better method of forcing air through the core. I figure using some 120m m or 140mm 12v fans would be a smaller package but downside is they wouldn't push more than 100-150 CFM.







    What do you guys think of the mounting location? Any issues? How about routing heater hoses? I hate to cut 3" holes all over the boat. Any close easy places to your them for pull out vents or would you just leave 3 hoses under the dash and just grab one for warmth? I figure I can make holders for them so you can leave the hoses pointed at the driver or just grab one and pull it out to observer seat area?

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    syracuse Indiana
    Posts
    425

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    On our Beast, which is basically a closed bow sunsport. I mounted the heater unit under the passenger seat area, near the battery. One vent goes directly out the storage box and the other vent hose is routed up under the drivers foot area. Rarely do we have to run on high, usually on low or med. Having a three speed blower motor is great. Remember to have enough of return air to supply the fan motor. Proper routing of water hose can make or break your heater install. Al
    Supra Beast
    Custom 496 MPI HO 425 hp
    Custom Teak floor

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Dixon, IL and Columbia, MO
    Posts
    775

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    beast, how exactly do you have your water hose routed? And you used the heater from the 4wd.com link you posted earlier right?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    syracuse Indiana
    Posts
    425

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    On our motor, which is a 496, the head cross over tube has a fitting for the auxilery heater. The heat input is attached to this location, the output is just prior to the raw water pump. I use a 1 1/4 connector with a 5/8 Y. This way the water is actually pushed and sucked for the circulation.
    On a Ford application I use the same Connector with the Y configuration again just prior to the raw water pump, and then use a fitting coming out of the intake manifold for the pressure side going to the heater core. Again great water flow
    Supra Beast
    Custom 496 MPI HO 425 hp
    Custom Teak floor

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