24 SSV trailer loading issues

[jeffreyk573]

I'm looking for some suggestions on how to make the loading process go a little smoother for our 24SSV. I have to say that I love everything about this boat, except for loading it back on the trailer. This is my fourth Supra, first V-drive. And I have never had any trouble loading one. This thing seems impossible. I've already knocked a pretty good chunk out of the top side of the bow. Do I need a shallow launch ramp? Or is there something I can do to the trailer itself,(that Boat Buddy looks like it's part of the problem)? I know that someone on here has dealt with this before.

[Sluggo]

I know I have a 22 vs 24, but I find I have the same problem with steep ramps. I personally have never had an issue with the boat buddy but I can see how it can happen. With the lower nose of our boats I tend to sink the trailer a little farther on steep ramps to ensure I don't get the nose under the boat buddy. If I can't get it deep enought without risking dunking the tow vehicle, then I will ask people to move as far back in the boat as possible and winch it up over the boat buddy. This method has worked so far pretty good. I did have one occasion where it was just me and a buddy loading it up and we were on a really steep ramp at lake Norris. Since we did not have the weight on the back, I filled the rear balast bags and that got the nose high enough. I made sure to empty them before we pulled out so this is not really a time saving solution.

[KG's Supra24]

Many people have the same compliant. I actually don't find it to be a problem that often. It can be a pain, though, on ramps you aren't used to.

Back the trailer where the water is just over the fenders and pull right up, slowly, to make sure you are going to clear the boat buddy. Also make sure your front ballast is empty before loading which usually means emptying while cruising so the water is forced to the front of the bag. If you have people in the boat, ask them to move to the back.

Several people have removed their boat buddy and replaced with a roller.

[jeffreyk573]

steep ramps are about the only option that we have where I regularly boat, so I guess that backing a little deeper is my best solution for right know. This late in the season though, our ramps are nothing short of treacherous below the waterline. I almost lost my 3/4 ton Dodge in the lake last weekend because I backed just a little to far in. I really can't tell you how slick this ramp was after you went past the waterline. Just looking for some options.

[jonyb]

There's probably 100 negative complaints about the Boat Buddy here if you search.

Take it off, put a roller on the bowstop, end of problem.

[Monroeyd]

Before we added lead to the bow, we never had a problem. Since I put about 200 lbs of lead up there it's a little trickier. On shallow ramps I'll back in with 1-2 inches of water above the fenders and pull the boat just short of the boat buddy, than power it on. On steeper ramps I back the trailer so there's 3-4 inches of water above the fender. Winter project is install an auto fill sac in the bow to make trailering easier.

[JONBLARC7]

I have had this same problem with my 06 24V and got the same answer as you. I took a big chunk out of the nose of my boat too, from it going under the boat buddy. Everbody says the trailer is to deep but thats not the problem. The problem is the trailer and if you call boatmate they will comfirm this. A month after my boat went out of the factory in 06 they lowered they bow roller and boat buddy 2-1/2" whiched helps let the nose ride over the roller and not under.

Basiclly what I did after I talked to Boatmate is put a floor jack under the boat while it was on the trailer (I used furniture blanket to pad it) and rasied it up as far as I could then lowered the front of the trailer as far as I could. This gave me enough room to take the boatbuddy off. Then I measured 2-1/2" down from the boatbuddy holes and marked a new hole for the roller I got from boatmate.

Next I held the new roller in place and market where to cut all the excess metal (I used a snag grinder). I made sure to take about a 1/4" more metal than the roller so if it flexed it wouldn't hit metal. Finally I sanded all the spurs off and hit it with a little black spray paint.

Sorry if some of that dosen't make since I don't think with this side of the brain to much.

[webbbrad]

Jeffrey,
1.. i found with steep ramps, start with the trailer shorter/shallower... get the boat guided on... connect winch strap and have a 2nd slowly back down as you winch it closer.. that was my experience with really steep ramps in Mississippi..
2. You get that boat from NY? I have put that boat in the water several times, but never there for removal... Had some fun surf sesh's behind that boat. I sold my Moomba same week as you bought that boat. I have a 21V on the way end of the month.

Cheers.

Brad

[jeffreyk573]

Yes, I did buy this boat in NY. It was worth the drive. I love everything about it, except putting it back on the trailer. I just wish that I had a little more summer left. I don't have another day off until Nov. Even here it will be too cold for me to go out. I'll have this trailer thing figured out by next year.

[KY Steve]

In my experience, the reason the bow goes below the roller is because the trailer is too deep even after I cut the bow stop down and pitched the BoatBuddy. On my ramp I have to keep the front of the fenders out of the water several inches otherwise the bow lines up below the roller. I couldn't find the past thread where I explained in detail, including pictures, the modification I made by lowering the stop and adding a roller but it has made a HUGE improvement when loading.

I think there are a lot of variables in play here but the main cause of the problem with many of the 24's is the height of the bow stop is too high.