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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    274

    Default 1991 Rudder Repair

    Hi all,

    I did a search to find all the rudder removal pics and info I could. Basically what I thought I understood was that to remove the rudder, it needed to be unbolted and the cotter key removed, then the arm assembly could be pulled off and the rudder would drop out. After inspection, what it looks like is that the round top (with the keyed area) is a bigger diamiter than the hole in the arm? I am attempting to include a pic here for support.

    Is it possible that Supra used different designs for these? Has any one seen this before? Am I just not seeing it right?


    http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSC_0222.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    saratoga springs, NY
    Posts
    112

    Default

    You will need to remove the bolt all the way... there is a notch in the shaft for the bolt. Also there should be o-ring's in the body of the mount, which might make it slow to come out but some pursuasion should get it out. (meaning use a poly/dead-blow mallet).
    mr.jrc -- 1986 Supra Saltare

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    274

    Default

    Ok, so that stud that is sticking out needs to be removed? When I took it all apart I thought there would be a gap on the oposite end from the arm that the bolt would clamp tight. I don't see that now but I will remove that bolt and see how it goes. Thanks for the reply and here I go!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

    Default

    Second that removal of the bolt , and if it still don't pop loose grab the torch and heat and tap method . Takes bout 3 licks did mine 3 days ago the same way . Good luck

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    274

    Default

    Sounds good lively. I saw a pic of yours on another thread. It looks the same as mine. When the temp comes up abit latter I will take another run at it. Thanks for the input and I will keep you posted!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

    Default

    mine has a split fork so i just tapped a standard screwdriver and pry it a litttle bit open , this made the rudder come loose and drop down , be sure before you get to whacking on that stud that the nut is on it and you use wood or brass hammer , also ive used heat and candle wax ... ( sounds crazy) but it works on rusted and locked up nuts .. good luck

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    5

    Default

    The rudders can be "entertaining" to make drop. It has taken me 30 minutes of banging on punch with a sledge to make one drop! And sometimes they fall right out.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

    Default

    I don't think you're gonna get that stud out with the tiller arm still on the shaft. My original looked similar as your picture. The hole for the stud was located such that the O.D. of the stud projected slightly into the bore of the tiller arm. The all-thread stud had a crescent ground out on one side in the middle so that when the stud was centered and rotated just right, the bore was clear for the rudder shaft to pass through. Once the tiller arm was in place on the rudder shaft, tightening the stud pulled the full O.D. threaded section into the bore for an interference fit with a notch on the rudder shaft locking it all in place.

    Try loosening the stud (lots of PB Blaster), put a nut on each end, and knock it back and forth in the tiller arm to work it loose. You may find it'll only go 3/8" or so either direction before the threaded section starts to bind which will help find the center of the clearanced section. Once the stud is "centered", slowly rotate it while tapping down on the rudder. When the clearanced section of the stud is properly oriented, the rudder shaft should tap through.

    Be careful hitting the top of the rudder shaft. Evidently while fighting this, I had slightly mushroomed the top of my rudder shaft & it wouldn't pass through the tiller arm. I got the tiller arm completely loose where it would spin 360 on the rudder shaft but wouldn't lift completely off. I finally said "F it" and cut the shaft. Only after it was out in pieces did I see I could have ground a small chamfer on the top O.D. of the shaft to get it to pass through. Turned out my shaft was severely worn and needed a new rudder anyway. Good luck.
    Last edited by sybrmike; 11-01-2011 at 12:14 PM.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

    Default

    go with what sybrmike said lol ... cause mine is different

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    274

    Default

    Ok,

    Got it all apart. The rudder arm isn't split so I didn't need to take the stud out. I just used a puller and it came out easily. But now I have more questions.
    http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...aRudderpic.jpg
    http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...aRudderpic.jpg

    From other posts I was expecting some things I don't see. First I don't see a grease fitting anywhere and there isn't any old patroleum residue anywhere. Could just be old and washed away but usually there is some residue.
    Next question is the hollow nut. It seems like something must have been in there origionaly. Maybe some kind of packing? The thing was taking on alot of water there and there doesn't seem to be any kind of seal?
    Third question is the shaft wear. What do you all think of the amount of wear going on there. It doesn't seem like that much wear for a brass part but again there doe'snt seem to be any lube, bearing or bushing. Is this normal.

    Thanks so much for all your comments and help!

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