Quote Originally Posted by villain View Post
I had the same problem. Ran new 10 gauge wire to the fuse block and ground block and it fixes it. Make sure all con connections are good and clean.
Good to know.
Quote Originally Posted by cadunkle View Post
I have the same problem but not as bad, reads about 1-2 volts lower on the dash than at the batteries. I get 13.x at dash and I believe 14.6 at batteries with engine running. Probably feed wire or ground, I need to clean or replace I'm sure.
Always something with these boats.

Quote Originally Posted by Wylietunes View Post
If i was working on this boat, here is what I would want to know. With all electrical loads off, but battery switch on, what is the voltage:

Battery post
Common post of the switch
Helm BUSS/Fuss block
B+ side of key switch

With the key switch on:

Battery post
Common post of the switch
Helm BUSS/Fuss block
B+ side of key switch
Switched output side of key switch
any suspect devices such as volt gauge an PP

With engine running:

At alternator main post
Battery post
Common post of the switch
Helm BUSS/Fuss block
B+ side of key switch
Switched output side of key switch
any suspect devices such as volt gauge an PP

If you find you have a voltage drop from one point to the next, you are getting close. But take note of where you clip the ground lead for the meter. A poor ground cable or connection will result in low voltage same as a problem on the B+ side will. If you have low voltage under the helm, then move your meter's ground lead to the battery ground post directly and retest. if voltage no is higher, the problem is with the ground side feeding where ever you had the meter lead hooked.
Makes sense. Checking all those spots I'm sure will uncover something.

Quote Originally Posted by DAFF View Post
It could be as simple as the wires running to the helm area are a tad overloaded. With the addition of the modern amenities they should be placed on their own separate circuit from the battery to a fuse block and to the accessory. This way the factory stuff remains clean and tidy with no future issues due to poor workmanship or wiring hack jobs.
Well, honestly the only things added are:
  1. Depth Gauge
  2. Perfect Pass in place of one of the speedos
  3. Wetsounds WS420sq instead of a head unit
  4. LED lights replaced the Court Lights (this probably is a decrease in load vs OEM)


So, it's not like I'm taxing the system with much more. Sure the PP might be a little, but can't be that much. All my stereo amps are wired such that they're triggered by a remote turn on lead and in turn pull their power with a straight run from the Perko Switch (just next to the batteries).

But Yeah, I get what you're saying. I'm sure that there might be some new runs of upsized wire in my future.