Also, think there's any value in replacing the breaker that's above the ignition switch? Not sure if those wear out or not, but I can't imagine they'd be that expensive...
Also, think there's any value in replacing the breaker that's above the ignition switch? Not sure if those wear out or not, but I can't imagine they'd be that expensive...
2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
Michael
Mikes Liquid Audio
If you'll touch one lead of your DVOM on one side of the breaker and then one on the other side, with an electrical load applied you will know right away if it has too much resistance across it. You should see zero volts or nearly so. If I saw .10 volt I would replace it for sure.
Kevin Allen
2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
Okay, so I ran a new 8 gauge power wire from the perko switch to the distribution stud of the fuse block. I also bought a Bus Bar and installed that below the fuse block. I likewise ran a new 8 gauge run from the battery to the bus bar. I put the perfect pass on it's own circuit and have it going through a relay so it's getting switched power. I gave it a ground to the bus bar. For the first time ever, I got over 12 volts on the PP voltage display with the engine off. From the battery to the PP voltage display, I have about 1/2 a volt loss. I think I can live with that. I'm not sure where PP was getting it's power, but it seems like it was getting it from somewhere that was WAY up by the top of the gauges. I'm thinking that it was just robbed off the power for one of the gauges.
I haven't replaced the ignition or the breaker, but I'm thinking I might do that eventually as preventative. We'll be taking the boat out tonight, so I'll be able to report back on how the PP functioned with the better voltage.
2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...
1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.
Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.
I am having the same issue. I just tested the voltage from the battery + to the power at the switch. When I turn the key (put some load) I get around 1 volt. If I hit the ballast fill switch I am getting close to 2. This appears to be the problem but I am not sure what to do next or isolate the issue.
Any suggestions?
Td in NC,
Thats a significant voltage drop. It could be a poor wire connection or corrosion in the wire. Trace the circuit back to its source. Dont overlook the helm ground circuit either. I would also evaluate the size of the helm cabling compared to the current load demand. Adding accessories like lights and ballast pumps, can easily tax the current capacity of those original helm feeds.
Michael
Mikes Liquid Audio
I struggle with electrical issues. Any advice or link on how to check each item which draws power?
I cleaned and checked as many of the power and grounds as I could yesterday, but no noticeable change.
Thanks
Tom
Looks like your boat is much newer than mine 89 but replaceing the breaker solved it for me.