Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    1,111

    Default

    Also, think there's any value in replacing the breaker that's above the ignition switch? Not sure if those wear out or not, but I can't imagine they'd be that expensive...
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trayson View Post
    Also, think there's any value in replacing the breaker that's above the ignition switch? Not sure if those wear out or not, but I can't imagine they'd be that expensive...
    Being a mechanical switch of sorts, it has contacts. Over time, these can pit/burn away, increasing corrosion and reducing voltage. Use the meter and test it with no helm loads and then again with loads turned on. There should not be any voltage drop across it.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Anderson SC
    Posts
    249

    Default

    If you'll touch one lead of your DVOM on one side of the breaker and then one on the other side, with an electrical load applied you will know right away if it has too much resistance across it. You should see zero volts or nearly so. If I saw .10 volt I would replace it for sure.

    Kevin Allen

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    1,111

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wylietunes View Post
    Being a mechanical switch of sorts, it has contacts. Over time, these can pit/burn away, increasing corrosion and reducing voltage. Use the meter and test it with no helm loads and then again with loads turned on. There should not be any voltage drop across it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kma4444 View Post
    If you'll touch one lead of your DVOM on one side of the breaker and then one on the other side, with an electrical load applied you will know right away if it has too much resistance across it. You should see zero volts or nearly so. If I saw .10 volt I would replace it for sure.
    I might just run out and grab one and replace it as preventative. Since I'm not with my boat right now, any clue what amp breaker I'd need for my 92 sunsport?
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vancouver WA
    Posts
    1,111

    Default

    Okay, so I ran a new 8 gauge power wire from the perko switch to the distribution stud of the fuse block. I also bought a Bus Bar and installed that below the fuse block. I likewise ran a new 8 gauge run from the battery to the bus bar. I put the perfect pass on it's own circuit and have it going through a relay so it's getting switched power. I gave it a ground to the bus bar. For the first time ever, I got over 12 volts on the PP voltage display with the engine off. From the battery to the PP voltage display, I have about 1/2 a volt loss. I think I can live with that. I'm not sure where PP was getting it's power, but it seems like it was getting it from somewhere that was WAY up by the top of the gauges. I'm thinking that it was just robbed off the power for one of the gauges.

    I haven't replaced the ignition or the breaker, but I'm thinking I might do that eventually as preventative. We'll be taking the boat out tonight, so I'll be able to report back on how the PP functioned with the better voltage.
    2008 Moomba Mobius XLV. Monster Cargo Bimini, and more mods to come...

    1992 Supra Sunsport. **SOLD** 2k pounds ballast, Surf System, Blue LED's everywhere, decent audio system.


    Tow Rig: 2013 F150 Ecoboost FX4 (wife's rig) Other money pits include:1998 BMW M3 Cabriolet, 2002 Audi S6 Avant, 2005 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Clayton NC
    Posts
    184

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kma4444 View Post
    Do a voltage drop test from your main feed wire and the ground wire. Connect a volt meter from the battery + to the hot wire under the dash and turn on some load, sounds like turning the key on will suffice. If you have a voltage reading on the meter it is telling you you have a large resistance to electrical flow in that circuit. Same thing with the ground side. What you will be reading is current that is flowing through the volt meter instead of through the circuit, electricity is lazy that way, always looking for the easy way out. If it weren't so useful, I'd swear it was a supporter of our current government. But back to the point, you want little to no voltage to show on the meter. If you do show a reading then try and isolate where it is by doing the same test at different points. It is really quick and easy and foolproof.

    You are looking for less than .20 volts DC on your circuits, with lower loads that number should be lower still. anything over that have too great a drop. This test can be used to check battery terminals as well, one lead to the post, one to the clamp or wire coming off the battery. You should see nothing at all there for voltage, even under a high load, like cranking the engine. The higher the load, the better this test is. You must have current flowing for this test to be valid.
    I am having the same issue. I just tested the voltage from the battery + to the power at the switch. When I turn the key (put some load) I get around 1 volt. If I hit the ballast fill switch I am getting close to 2. This appears to be the problem but I am not sure what to do next or isolate the issue.

    Any suggestions?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    440

    Default

    Td in NC,

    Thats a significant voltage drop. It could be a poor wire connection or corrosion in the wire. Trace the circuit back to its source. Dont overlook the helm ground circuit either. I would also evaluate the size of the helm cabling compared to the current load demand. Adding accessories like lights and ballast pumps, can easily tax the current capacity of those original helm feeds.
    Michael
    Mikes Liquid Audio

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Clayton NC
    Posts
    184

    Default

    I struggle with electrical issues. Any advice or link on how to check each item which draws power?

    I cleaned and checked as many of the power and grounds as I could yesterday, but no noticeable change.
    Thanks
    Tom

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Looks like your boat is much newer than mine 89 but replaceing the breaker solved it for me.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •