87 Sun Sport Overhaul

[mapleleaf]

Here's a link to the thread where I was taught to separate the drive shaft form the coupler, took me a bit, but the advice , as always, was top notch.
https://forum.supraboats.com/showthread.php?t=7751

[NeilMcg]

Thanks Leaf, this will help much!

[NeilMcg]

Been absent for awhile ( work man....), but the cap and engine are coming out mid January. I did notice however that my best msmt of the floor was around 3/8". I ordered samples of Coosa and Nida board 3/4". I was wondering what thickness for those who replaced their floor used. Am concerned that using 3/4" could raise the deck height so that the lip of the cap would have a gap against the hull. (Also, Anyone have experience with using a front end loader to do the lifting? Any pointers on how to teather the cap? Was thinking of roping the four cleats tied to a central point at the center. Please let me know if I'm heading for disaster!


Other progress..finally got the windshield off.


Was wondering about this

[Okie Boarder]

You could go with the thicker board and...

A) Reduce the stringer height to compensate.
B) Cut the bottom of the top cap to compensate.

I would say if you tied to all four corners and to a center point you would be good as far as the top being lifted well. You might run into some issues with it wanting to tip and swing. Maybe tie something like a 2 x 4 across the two front and then another across the two rear cleats, then lift with those to make it want to be a little more stable.

[NeilMcg]

Okie:
That's what I was thinking also. I guess the big thing is keeping it level to to the original. I guess that's the challenge. The pics to come will tell the tale. Stay tuned!

[NeilMcg]

Just hired the lifter to hoist the engine and cap Saturday Jan 15. Oh shit...here we go

[sybrmike]

I'd try to lift as vertical as possible from at least the 4 cleats. Others with Sunsports can better tell how stiff the cap is & if spreaders are indeed necessary. Make sure you've got enough lift on the loader for the inner skirt of the cap to clear the hull seam.

Like Okie said, just cut the stringer height down to compensate for the thicker floor. Be sure to measure better than I did though so you don't have to trim the bottom of the cap (like I did!).

Oh sh!#? No Sh!# It's not that bad - really...

[NeilMcg]

Sounds like I have some grinding to do...Oh Brother....

[dshaff24]

Fyi- When I lifted my cap off with the forklift.. The weakest point was the nose! I had a six point harness made up with rachet straps and rope and most the of tension was on the middle and rear.. The front was basically to keep it balanced! This worked perfect!

Also when I reinstalled the Cap I had 4 friends + me and we just lifted the cap onto the boat! So its definitly possible if it has to be that way!

[mapleleaf]

Been absent for awhile ( work man....), but the cap and engine are coming out mid January. I did notice however that my best msmt of the floor was around 3/8". I ordered samples of Coosa and Nida board 3/4". I was wondering what thickness for those who replaced their floor used. Am concerned that using 3/4" could raise the deck height so that the lip of the cap would have a gap against the hull. (Also, Anyone have experience with using a front end loader to do the lifting? Any pointers on how to teather the cap? Was thinking of roping the four cleats tied to a central point at the center. Please let me know if I'm heading for disaster!


Other progress..finally got the windshield off.


Was wondering about this

Pretty sure you're pointing at the keyway that holds the drive shaft and trans coupler together, it didn't happen when you ran aground.