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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Back to Dallas!
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    OK..I'll be out there. :P
    89' Comp rebuild thread:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...1923456&type=3

    89' Comp Mod's and fun pic's:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...6666464&type=3

    89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
    4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
    Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
    JL-Kicker Amps 2000 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Collegedale, TN
    Posts
    1,905

    Default

    You may not be able to just replace the carpet and you definitely don't want to replace the floor knowing that you'll be replacing the stringers next winter. When I pulled my carpet up it pulled up sections of the rotted floor as well. I think you would be better to leave the floor alone until you're ready to do the stringer project.

    Now of course you can get started on all those other cosmetic issues you described. There's plenty to do!

    1986 Saltare
    Restoration link: http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=7839

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Bend Oregon
    Posts
    169

    Default Dough!!!

    Did not really think of that, could my floor really be that rotted that upon removal of the carpet, the existing floor rots its way apart with it!? DOUGH! Hope not, that would be pretty far gone! if the floor is that bad, then questions arise about the condition of the stringers, along with the motor mounts that are holding the motor in place on those stringers,... which is connected to the prop shaft, ... which.......

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

    Default Bandaid fix

    Not that I recommend it, buuuuut...

    The PO of my Saltare had simply pulled the seat bases, removed the old carpet, glued & screwed new resin coated 1/2" plywood over the existing floor lengthwise from helm to gas tank and flange to flange width of the top cap, and covered with cheap outdoor carpet. A little creative trim along the cap flange / floor joint & it didn't look too bad. The original floor and carpet was left up under the playpen, but not really visible. Looked like it had been that way for a few seasons.

    The old floor had several soft spots, but there was enough good wood left that the glue & screws had it bonded pretty good (a real bi!%# to get off). Even though roughly half the stringers and all the cross braces were rotten, the engine mount bolts were still tight with no discernable engine movement or hull flex when test driving. The only outward clue to structural decay was that the helm had sagged in the middle just a tad so that the center windshield didn't close square. After tearing into it, I'm amazed that it was still holding together, but it was. Of course, if any of your engine mounts are no good - all bets are off. Even then, you just never know how long a new floor, old floatation foam, and stringer casings can make up for rotten wood.
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Bend Oregon
    Posts
    169

    Default WHole sale vinyl

    Hey here is the link for the wholesaler I have found the cheapest vinyl and foamhttp://www.rochfordsupply.com/ Check out the prices, best I have found.

    This is the foam=http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Boating_and_Marine/Marine_Foam/Drain_Dry_Foam/index.htm

    And there is a slough of vinyl, marine grade I found=
    http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/T...out/index.html

    http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/T...nyl/index.html

    http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/T...nyl/index.html

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    2,159

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sybrmike View Post
    Not that I recommend it, buuuuut...

    The PO of my Saltare had simply pulled the seat bases, removed the old carpet, glued & screwed new resin coated 1/2" plywood over the existing floor lengthwise from helm to gas tank and flange to flange width of the top cap, and covered with cheap outdoor carpet. A little creative trim along the cap flange / floor joint & it didn't look too bad. The original floor and carpet was left up under the playpen, but not really visible. Looked like it had been that way for a few seasons.

    The old floor had several soft spots, but there was enough good wood left that the glue & screws had it bonded pretty good (a real bi!%# to get off). Even though roughly half the stringers and all the cross braces were rotten, the engine mount bolts were still tight with no discernable engine movement or hull flex when test driving. The only outward clue to structural decay was that the helm had sagged in the middle just a tad so that the center windshield didn't close square. After tearing into it, I'm amazed that it was still holding together, but it was. Of course, if any of your engine mounts are no good - all bets are off. Even then, you just never know how long a new floor, old floatation foam, and stringer casings can make up for rotten wood.
    OMG, that last paragraph may have just described my boat....Not that I didn't know it was coming....thx Mike lol....
    90 Conbrio

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