Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Jeeps

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    391

    Default

    If you want to go a bit on the inexpensive side go with a YJ (1987-1995) they're leaf sprung with beefier springs than a CJ and they're fuel injected. They're not as desirable because of the square headlights, but I loved my YJ. In 1995 they had beefier front U-joints as well, and they had a family style roll cage from I believe 1993 and up. The CJ is superior in many ways though. It is built sturdier with less plastic. It has a beefier axle in the rear than the YJ and they're available with an AMC V8. The front axle also uses lock out hubs instead of the YJs vacuum system.

    All that being said a CJ will be more expensive in equal condition. A good CJ will run $5 to 7K.

    Nowadays you can get away with getting a well builtTJ for under $10K. They're equipped with fuel injection and coil springs which are great offroad, and on road. Its truley a massive upgrade vs leafs.

    Most important thing for me would be that all YJs and almost all TJs came with a Dana 35c rear end. Toothpick axle that breaks REALLY easily in 4lo. Some TJs came stock with a Dana 44 rear axle which can safely handle 35" tires.

    The other thing to pay attention to is your drive line angles when a lift has been installed since wheelbase is so short and stay away from big body lifts and CJ-5s They're worthless.

    Its just my humble opinion but I hope it helps.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    Thanks! One suggestion from another forum is to get a YJ and swap the front clip to the CJ style.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    391

    Default

    Just get ready to swap out the rear axle on it. I put a Ford 8.8 from an explorer under mine. They're abundant, there's plenty of aftermarker parts, and they come with the correct width and bolt pattern for Yjs and TJs. I know I'm picky on this axle issue but you'll soon figure out why. I've seen guys snap Dana35c axles with 32" tires backing a loaded small utility trailer into a steep driveway.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    651

    Default

    personally Id go with a 98+ Tj.. Tehy can be found for around 3k-6k.. Yj's are sweet but bumpy on the roads... If you want the best all around experience with a wrangler i m o its the best year.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mani View Post
    why. I've seen guys snap Dana35c axles with 32" tires backing a loaded small utility trailer into a steep driveway.
    I didn't have a wrangler but ive owned 8 jeep cherokee's.. my woods buggy had a dana 35 in it and I kept it in just to test it and to my surprise it help up really good with 33 mudders and tons of abuse.. Not saying your wrong just saying why it didn't explode was beyound me


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Round Rock, TX
    Posts
    12

    Default

    I couldn't agree more...I've been through an '53 M38A-1, '87 YJ, '95 YJ and now have an '03 TJ Rubicon and the Rubi is hands down a better vehicle. The coil springs under the TJ improve the ride tremendously over any of the YJ models and it just seems more stable on and off-road. I have a 13 year old that just drools at the prospect of driving the Rubi to school some day but I'm just not sure it’s a good ride for a newly-licensed teen.







  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Back to Dallas!
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Okie..Im on my 3rd Jeep suv style 97' I6/Auto (my old boat pullers). The first 2-went 220,000 miles and sold for more than what I paid. The TALL jeep scares me for the young boys (most kids ROLL there 1st vehicle)..so keep it WIDE N LOW instead. But any Jeep will do, and you wont have any problems with $10,000. Stay with the I6 plenty of torque and better fuel mileage. I have mine up to 18-29mpg. See you over at jeepsunlimted.com. lol
    89' Comp rebuild thread:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...1923456&type=3

    89' Comp Mod's and fun pic's:
    https://www.facebook.com/andrewjetm/...6666464&type=3

    89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
    4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
    Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
    JL-Kicker Amps 2000 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    391

    Default

    As I said before, I'm with ya'll on the TJ idea. Coil springs, Fox shocks, coil overs, etc. can NOT be beat off road.

    Dshaff, I ran my 35c for well over 3 years before I finally put the 8.8 under it. I never broke a rear axle shaft, but I finessed my way out of many obstacles. The first serious breakage I ever had was when I went with the 8.8. I thought it was invincible and gassed the heck out of it coming up a big ledge. Snapped front passenger side u joint (ears didn't break, surprisingly) and my rear output shaft.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •