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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    NJ
    Posts
    1,393

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    I hope you don't mean on the actual rudder shaft. This is sealed on the newer style by the lip seals in the rudder housing, and by the rope seal/packing on the older style. If you got enough sealant far enough up on the shaft it could damage the seal and result in a leak.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    2,159

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    I'm guessing he thought it was a port and rudder replacement....requiring a good bead on the gelcoat around the rough opening of the port....
    90 Conbrio

  3. #23

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    Best way I can put it is if you look at the first page of my original thread, you'll see that the vertical rudder post bent outwards. I had it bent back, but it's still not perfect. I'm having a machinist still working on it, but I think I'll end up buying one from Skidim.

    My question is: If my guy is able to get it straight, can I merely sent it back up through the housing and then connect the tiller arm without any concern of water seeping up through the space between the post and the cylinder (kind of the same way engine oil can travel up between the piston and cylinder wall?) The acual housing is 5200'd to death with silicone all around.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    2,159

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    Neil, Your OEM rudder sounds like the kind with a flax rope packing at the top of rudder port where it is set into the steering cable. If it wasn't you'd see grease zirks for lubrication... There should be a collar nut with rope packing in it from your disassembly, check the parts you took out. This nut will have a another nut that "sets" the tightness to your rudder arm. That's what stops the water from getting in. Don't have pics of mine, because I hit some rocks and am in the process of repairing it.
    These boats are capable of powerful enough turns to bend the rudder, and thats why with age you're in this mess...
    Pics would be helpful, but if you've ever redone the rope packing on your drive shaft, this isn't much different...
    90 Conbrio

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    2,159

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    Just checked your rebuild pics, that rudder is not the one I thought it was, wish I could help more, our rudder's are diff. only exp'd with mine!!!
    90 Conbrio

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    221

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    Quote Originally Posted by mapleleaf View Post
    I'm guessing he thought it was a port and rudder replacement....requiring a good bead on the gelcoat around the rough opening of the port....
    Yeah, that's what I was going for, cadunkle has it right about the different seal designs. The caulking just seals the port to the hole in the boat... I think we're all on the same page.
    1989 Bravura - repowered with 2001 PCM 351 GT-40 - 1.23:1 PCM Trans.
    1989 comp - sold
    1985 comp - sold

  7. #27

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    Thanks guys for your input, but I must admit I can't visualize what your talking about. I think my best bet is to buy a whole new assembly. Remember the BOAT acronym..I really do appreciate your advice!!

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    221

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    see attachment, the red is where you would most need beads of caulking, up against the outside of the boat. the shaft of the rudder goes inside of the assembly, as you can see, and its seals keep the water from entering the boat around the post of the rudder. The green is just my impression of bolts, going through the backing plate and down through the outside flange. Of course, the nuts go on the inside... anyway that should clear it up.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1989 Bravura - repowered with 2001 PCM 351 GT-40 - 1.23:1 PCM Trans.
    1989 comp - sold
    1985 comp - sold

  9. #29

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    Ok, It's starting to make sense now. Thanks for the pic!

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