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  1. #81
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

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    I had replaced the shaft log (drive line bump area) prior to my rebuild so I lightly ground that area and let my glass overlap it when it needed to. You might grind it enough to get the bilge paint off and allow the new glass to stick to it, if you overlap that far.

    You're coming along. Looks like you're learning how far to go with the grinding and it all looks correct to me. You're right that if you grind a little too much it won't be the end of the world and resin/glass can be used to build it back up.

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    Ha ha thanks for the encouragement OB ! yeah the shaft log on mine has either heavy build up of bilge paint or bondo cause i was grinding for a minute ,

    So my next step is to get the stringer templates and start a layout for the wood , my resin and 1708 are on there way and ill be getting the douglas this friday at my local lumber yard , PL is what im using for the fillet to bond the stringers , then some glass work ! ugh , this is some work when ur alone on the build ! lol but i got some good miller lite and tunes to keep me sain !

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    499

    Default

    what is the PL you are using for the fillet?

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    polyurethane adhesive ( yellow tube ) - home depo has it and so does lowes 6.89 for the big ones or 3.89 for the small .. Im just following saltys and OB's and it looks pretty dang strong from the reviews ...

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    499

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    ya i think i might go a different rout from the cabosil, i used some cabosil to fill some holes and jeez it was a mess and hard to work with.

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    Ben - temp and percentage of cabosil you used verse how much resin Has alot to do with the thickness ... Pl adhesive is a premium pre mixed solution for some fillets .... Far as covering holes I'n the boat just sand the back side of whatever u wanting to glass and Lay some mat and resin on the backside and then sand the top side and used fiberglass bondo .. Works great , but only for areas nothing over a foot

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    ok I have a question about the old glass on this picture here the wood for the strut and the rudder assembly ... Do I need to remove wood and replace ? Or can I grind and glass over the old resin and glass once the bildge paint is removed ?
    Last edited by lively; 09-17-2011 at 04:20 PM.

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    499

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    im removing mine because at this point there is no point not too. im takin a break from sanding right now and damn it sucks!!!

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    499

    Default

    oh yea we are basically at the same spot. I fried my big grinder now im having to use the 4" and its takin forever

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

    Default

    ben - go to harbor freight .. i got my 7" for 30 bucks and it works great ! and i hear ya on the sanding it took me a while but i had to grind out some bad spots damn near on top of the gel coat .. i got everything to do the stringers but dont have the actual lumber lol ..
    oh and i found a local wholsale fiberglass supply place near me .. i got 5 gal of poly and 6 0z of hardner for 100.00 bucks !!


    im just ready to get this one side in and start some glassing ... are you going to bed with PL ?

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