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  1. #111
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    ok so I was thinking hard about the stringer cuts , I still have the old one I cut out ! On the front bow where the stringer is curved I cut them as close as I could and if you look at my last photos there was only like 1" at the most left on the hull to grind , so with that said guys do y'all think I can trace a template with the old and and then that could be close right ... ?

  2. #112
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

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    Quote Originally Posted by lively View Post
    and how did you use the protractor ?
    Actually, when looking it up I realized it's actually called an angle finder. I just set it against the hull and let it show me the angle. Looks like this:


  3. #113
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

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    Using the old one as a guide helps. Also, I had taken measurements before cutting the stringer out from the back of the boat to the front in increments. I marked those heights on the board I was cutting and also marked the profile from the old stringer. The two of those helped get it pretty close. I also did the same with the angles.

  4. #114
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    yea i think im gonna get some masonite and trace a template , i seen those at harbor freight ! ill go get one today , should have known lol i swear i seem to over think about somethings ...

  5. #115
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    NW Houston
    Posts
    1,330

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    I did similar to Okie - took measurements every 6" of the old stringer while it was still installed & transferred to the new stringer. I measured both sides of the stringer to get an idea of the angle with the hull. Rough cut to shape, then used an angle grinder and belt sander to fine tune the fit. It doesn't have to be exact, but you want to get a fairly uniform gap so that you don't have any hard contact points with the hull when you bed the stringer. Don't forget to make allowances for the thickness of glass on top of the stringer. I think that's where I screwed up & ended up with my floor ~3/8" high (had to trim the inner liner of the cap to get it to sit down properly).
    _______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
    _________Then________________________Now_____

  6. #116
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    Mike- Hey thanks for the write up ! I would have totally forgot about Lay up thickness and relation to the deck , I still have the other side in so i can take some more measurements like you did ... and see what i get with one of those angle finders that OB used

  7. #117
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    2,508

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    I did a similar screw up by setting the boards at the height the glass should have come to. I think I ended up about 3/16" or less too high so I didn't have to trim, luckily. My cuts weren't all that great and I actually cut the boards more on the short side, so my gap was pretty big in some spots. That wasn't the end of the world...just ended up using a bit more thickened epoxy when I bed them in. I did all my cuts with a circular saw, believe it or not. I just would adjust the angle as I went along. When I test fitted I would scribe or mark the areas that needed trimming and make adjustments. I must have climbed in and out of the hull 20-30 times with each board.

  8. #118
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    fort worth , tx
    Posts
    1,171

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    let's just say with all the help from y'all made my cutting go smooth as he'll !!! First cut atleast 93% contact and I'n the morning I'll make some angle cuts and start some glass work ... Thanks for all the advice guys !!!!

  9. #119
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Walkersville,MD
    Posts
    618

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    This is cool to watch, keep up the great work!

  10. #120
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    176

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    Don't forget a couple coats of cpes on the stringer, to insure a long lasting job.

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