86' supra sunsport rebuild

[lively]

sybrmike - this is what i installed , they weren't cheap either ! so do you think that will be ok .. or should i run externals also ?

[sybrmike]

As long as the flaps have some type of spring action and stay flat without exhaust flow, only move the direction of the exhaust flow & not back towards the engine, I think you'll be fine.

[lively]

sybr- so i took some pics today of some progress , here are those flapps i was talking about ...


But when i put my cap back on the bow and transom went on but my sides are flared out .. but i can push the top cap onto the hull lip with force , maybe 20lbs force ,
should the cap just lay nicely onto the hull side ? Im just wondering if the deck is too high ... but when i glassed the deck in it lined up with the old fillet marks on the sides of the hull ??? ...will it be ok if i bond the two together with force and rivet it ?? or should l look into cutting and use a long stainless L brace ?

[lively]

[sybrmike]

A nice shoebox lid fit would be nice, but I think most have had similar issues? I posted similar problems in my rebuild thread. First, my floor ended up ~1/2" too high at the rear & the cap wouldn't set down. Trimmed the cap inner liner (the Salt doesn't have the same floor flange as the Sun) so it would set down. Then, I too had to wrestle the cap on the hull & my old rivet/screw holes wouldn't line up. I settled on a position where the most holes lined up & fastened the cap down. It was a two person job - one to hold the top and bottom in the correct position, one to run long screws in to suck the two pieces together. Once it was "tacked" in place with a few screws, I went back with alternating screws and rivets around the perimeter (like it was originally).

[lively]

A nice shoebox lid fit would be nice, but I think most have had similar issues? I posted similar problems in my rebuild thread. First, my floor ended up ~1/2" too high at the rear & the cap wouldn't set down. Trimmed the cap inner liner (the Salt doesn't have the same floor flange as the Sun) so it would set down. Then, I too had to wrestle the cap on the hull & my old rivet/screw holes wouldn't line up. I settled on a position where the most holes lined up & fastened the cap down. It was a two person job - one to hold the top and bottom in the correct position, one to run long screws in to suck the two pieces together. Once it was "tacked" in place with a few screws, I went back with alternating screws and rivets around the perimeter (like it was originally).

ok cause that sounds like what i might be doing ... i do remember faintly that my sides did pop out when i was drilling rivets out . i think i might be ok .. i was really just curious to see if you and everyone else had the same issues .. but my bow and transoms slid right on so will see ... thanks for the input bud

[csuggs]

Lively - did you brace the hull good before you cut the old stringers out? If not, the shape will change ( usually bulge at the middle ) as the sides of the hull will actually " relax" if not braced.

[lively]

Lively - did you brace the hull good before you cut the old stringers out? If not, the shape will change ( usually bulge at the middle ) as the sides of the hull will actually " relax" if not braced.

yes i did brace it on the trailer .. used 4xs and 1xs to shim it tight .. but i really think it will be ok after looking things over . i heard that same thing that they would relax ... maybe i didnt brace it right ?

[csuggs]

As long as you braced it, you're probably fine. It doesn't look too far off in the pics. It may not have been that close the first time it was assembled!

[lively]

thats what i am beginning to think .. im gonna do some sanding and filling the holes and put a couple screws to hold it together while it painted .. so hopefully (fingers crossed ) everything will go smoothly ..