Stripe removal, wetsand, etc...

[Okie Boarder]

So I did one section with several steps to see what it looks like. I realize I'm not going 100% with the steps and not taking it all the way, but I'm not liking what I'm seeing. It would be hard to see in pictures, but I will say the haze is most noticeable right above where the stripes were removed. I'm sure that's due to being light handed with it before. The section I did was with 600, 800, 1000, compound (by hand) and then I looked at it. It seems that haze is still there to an extent. Should I consider doing 600 with a electric or air palm sander and do it dry? Should I step up to 320 and stay wet? Thoughts?

[86 century]

Mine looked just like yours same color and fadeing/build up.

I ended using 150 to get it all the same color then 220,320,400,600dry,600wet,1000wet,1500wet and 3m heavy cut compound.
After all that I used ht357 mag from car bright.
All that to end up with this

[wiatowski]

I used both electric and air orbital sanders i went 150,320,600,1200, 3m compound, then yacht brights Buff magic, and pro polish.
lots of work but worth the results

[sydneyACE]

As I said, I've been working on mine with a 320 wet.
The 600 was "kind-of" working but when compared with a portion that was covered by stripes/letters, it was pretty obvious that the colors weren't the same.
I could hit-it with the buffer and it would shine-up nice, but you could tell the color was still faded.
When you say "haze" what exactly do you mean? Haziness could be caused by not getting all the scratches out from the 600 grit. I doubt this is your problem though as you are using very small incriments 600-800-1000.
The haziness is probably due to not getting all the way through the oxidation. (This was my problem.)
When I started with a fresh sheet of 320 and worked wet, I noticed that it worked much faster than the 600 (obviously).
I then took-out the 320 scratches with 600 wet, took-out the 600 scratches with the buffer (cutting compound), finally got-it to shine with polishing compound.
I knew I had it right when the water imediately beaded-up and the color matched the stuff that was under the vinyl.
Try to replace sand-paper frequently as it does wear-down (sometimes leaving a few "sharp" spots that leave scratches).
A squeegee helps a ton when wet-sanding so you can clear the water-off. (Water makes it hard to see the scratches.)
You can def use some 320 or 400 or something dry, on an electric to speed things-up like wiatowski did.

[Okie Boarder]

Yeah, when I say haze I mean the cloudy look like from oxidation. It definitely seems like I am not getting it all. If I were to use an electrical, would the typical palm sander you use for wood be what to use? I'm curious to try an area with 600 and the electric...just simply due to the fact it will cut a little more than by hand since it is going to move around the area at a higher rate than your hand does.

[86 century]

I used a black and decker palm sander so yea the same kind you use for wood.

The gel coat on these things is thick.

[sydneyACE]

Honestly I haven't tried and electric sander on mine. Seems like it should speed things-up though. Just remember you will probably go through more paper that way. If you don't get a fresh sheet often, it will wear-out and stop working as well.
I was using an old sheet, and was like "What the hell? Why is this taking so long?" Got a fresh sheet, and it started cutting through again.
I think I'm gonna go get some more done this afternoon as a matter of fact...

[86 century]

Yea I found the paper goes south real fast.
I think it's because the gel coat is so hard it just dulls the paper.

[TitanTn]

From my understanding a palm sander will work, but a DA sander is preferred.

[wiatowski]

I changed the paper every 2-3'' section. Due to what 86 mentioned.