Got the faux teak EVA foam flooring routed and installed. Better pictures coming soon.
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Picked up a trailer to fix up. Not completely done but it’s looking much better. Didn’t feel like driving for 6 hours transporting the two trailers to transfer the boat over so I decided to lift the boat and swap the trailers. That old ragged trailer was making the boat look bad but this new trailer pairs up great! Plus it’s so much safer with the tandem axle.
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A lot has been getting done! Got the sound system prewired and transferred into the boat, except for the sub (More Pics coming soon). Most of the dash is wired up now, so the boat has all new wiring, new fuses, and new gauges. All of the gauges work besides the fuel gauge which I’m struggling with still. (Any threads out there on fuel gauges?)
what an ugly steering wheel
Also, I got the wakeboard tower installed. Can’t wait to get the speakers cans mounted.
Finally, got two batteries installed with a battery selector switch. Connected the grounds together and then ran the positive leads to the switch. The difficult decision here was where to put my inline fuse for the sound system. You want the fuse as close to the battery as possible, but I’ll be using two batteries some times. Anyways... I put the fuse first thing after the switch. I’ve got one more fuse so I may also put it on battery two’s positive lead for when I’m only using battery 2 for music.
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Looking good...you will be jamming some tunes on the lake before you know it!!!
I'm currently pulling together a parts list for my dash rebuild. Any tips?
One other question I meant to ask, did you use the inter protect 2000e on the floor under the Eva and on the seat bases?
Thanks Cooose. As far as the dash goes.. one thing I didn’t pay particular attention to is the gauges operating range. Your sending units resistance range must match the resistance range of the gauge. Yesterday I found out that my resistance range on my fuel gauge isn’t correct. Also I would suggest buying gauges that you can change the bulbs on instead of inclosed LEDs so that you can make all of your gauges backlight match.
For the exterior of the seats and floor I did a layer of fiberglass mesh, then gel coat, then vinyl wrap. For the interior surfaces of of the seats I just brushed on 2 layers of polyester resin. There’s probably a better way to do it but I figured it would be sufficient.
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So this may be a stupid question, but I'll be replacing both the gauges and the sending units. Is it easier to find gauges and then find sending units to match the resistance or vice versa, or are they fairly universal.
Last edited by Cooose; 04-02-2018 at 11:54 PM.
You’ll want to find the transducers / sending units first, because they will generally be the same resistance range as your OEM parts. I found gauges from 3 different sources so you can tell that they are slight different. I would suggest buying a kit with all of your gauges so that they will match (some sellers will customize the resistance range). You can get them for $250+ which isn’t far from what you’ll spend by mixing and matching.
If you haven’t already looked into it, check out GPS speedometers. I’ll be able to let you know how mine works in a few weeks. I chose this route to due ways with dual speedo gauges and the old school tube pressure transducer system.
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