Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
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Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
I ordered this from my local dealer the other day. They take about ten days because Supra makes them as they are ordered. Thanks again for listing the info, it was huge help having the part number when I called.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLouder
No problem. I just got mine delivered today! It is a bit different than the originals but pretty close, just has a smooth surface instead of textured.
Again, sorry for no photo updates guys...I sent he bot to have the stringers 'glassed in so when I pick it up I will add some pics!
Hi All,
Sorry its been a while but have been just getting back into working on the Comp. The main stringers are back in and the marina did a test fit of the motor today for me just to make sure things are lining up. We made some minor mistakes the the stringer step out where the exhaust pipes are to sit so we have to cut/notch some sections out to make them fit and re-glass it...minor setback.
Outside stringers/floors/foam are the next step, then I will get the fuel tank back in place. After that, minor interior mods (including a modified engine cover base to have cup holders) and carpet.
Slow and steady!
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps73fff1c2.jpg
Road block.
Turns out whoever owned this boat really hacked it together. At one point someone had this thing apart and I found a spot where a cutoff wheel went right through the transom where the exhaust ports are and that someone covered it up with bondo...literally. I am soc lucky that never came loose as it would of sunk the boat.
I can see daylight through a 1/4" wide slit. I am freaking. What do you think is the best repair here? I was thinking of taping the hole from the outside, epoxy/resin and matte (multiple layers) then from the outside 3M Marine 5200 as a sealant. Thoughts?
I have a rebuilt footbed. Refiberglassed and Rhino lined blk with blue specs. ?? Might still be in the classifieds. Jet
I would do exactly as you say except I'd fill the outside with Marine Tex and Gelcoat, or just Gelcoat depending on how deep it ends up being.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
So here is what I'm up against...a hole and a crack just below the traps.
Titan, what would you suggest for the crack since it is on the edge of the transom/hull? What about some minor stress cracks on the transom? I feel like a bought a lemon 8 years ago lol, so frustrating!
Yes, he boat is sitting up off the hull, supported on blocks...trying to finish up the stringers.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psb595a5dd.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psc2d439f4.jpg
the spider cracks are very common. personally, i'd glass the inside with some cloth and marinetex the outside. you can use the marinetex to bed the cloth. clean the inside area with acetone and do some grinding first.
for the outside, use a plastic spreader wetted with water to get a smooth finish. sanding marinetex is not fun. it sets up very hard.
http://www.bartsupply.com/gallery/pr...5_Spreader.gif
trippy roller trailer
What he said ^^
I wouldn't worry about the spider cracks, and only use as much Marine Tex as you need. As Salty said, it's tough to sand.
Great info guys, thanks. I'll post up some more pics when I get 'glassing!Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Yes, it is a trippy trailer, Shore Lander with the ski boat bunk. Despise it, impossible to load on to! Didn't come with the original and I have been trying to chase one down up here with no luck.
Requesting info from resident experts.
Has anyone used anything other than the 2 part foam for buoyancy? I'm suprised there I nothing else on the market.
Anyone know of anything?
that's the only 'marine' rated product i know of. people have used different things like sheets of foam or even floaty noodles or ping pong balls. depends on how you want to gamble with all of the hard work you've done. 2 part foam is good stuff provided it's not swamped by water for a long time. water will find its way into just about anything given enough time.
what are your objectives? have you allowed for drainage to the bilge?
Thanks Salty. I will probably go back to the conventional method of pour in, seems to be the best solution.
New question. I have the stringers and new hull supports cut out and contoured as best as possible to the shape of the hull. The cross members were easier but the full length stringer is almost impossible to get the exact controur/angle over the full length. In a some spots near the engine when the angle changes I have a 1/4-1/2 gap on the inboard side of the stringer. Will this be ok when I bed them in? Should I "backfill" with PB mix? My worry is that there is not enough support but from what I have read in the forums is that it should be ok and the strength comes from the fiberglass matte going over the top of the stringer.
Figured I would ask the experts here since you know the hull shape!
On a side note, while the stringers were drying (coated with resin) I attempted to revive the tired out red paint...I think it came back ok after some wet sanding and cutting!
Before:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps10eed558.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psc4d21a00.jpg
After:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps5f6658df.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psc0be7e4a.jpg
Up next is the hull!
Any help here guys? Planning on laying the stringers tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
Yes, I think you'll be fine with the bed of PB mix. It's supposed to sit on a bed of mx versus the hull itself anyway. Sounds like you're right on track.
The gel coat looks great!
Thanks Titan, I'll get some more pics together once the stringers are in....which will have to wait until next weekend once the weather cooperates!Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
I just took of the swim platform and brackets as I noticed the "transom" is rotten. What has everyone done other than new wood and fibgerlass? Even after replacement, it still seems like a weak design.
Also repaired the hole in the hull. Re-fiberglassed the exhaust outlet on the inside, backfilled with PC-11 marine epoxy and 1st coat of marine tex just to seal it all up. Will sand it smooth and go for a second coat. Really awkward spot to get at, did the best I could.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps2bcab2fe.jpg
From what I can see that repair looks good. It really is an awkward place to work. I've done some wet sanding there and never could get it just like I wanted. Hate to say it, but that epoxy will be harder to sand than what I was doing, so good luck, but regardless, filling the hole was the first objective.
i think i used these guys for 1/4" aluminum backing plates- http://www.cut2sizemetals.com/c2sm/custom-cut/Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
and used big ole washers too.
once the platform is on you'll be the only one looking back there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
For the most part, I will probably do a second coat to try and blend it in better plus make sure it is sealed 100% and not even bother sanding it. It is hard enough to get my finger in there I may just have to leave it be! I plan on wetsanding and cutting the gel coat back here so i think once some of the fade and carbon suit are gone off the transom it may blend in a bit better.Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Salty87, I'll keep them in mind. I saw what Titan had done and plan on something similar. Was even thinking of 1/8" aluminum plates that are a bit wider on the exterior with longer through bolts to help spread the load. I can't believe this is considered a 'transom'...its just glecoat and a thin layer of glass!
Another update. Sorry for the lack of progress, its been a busy summer so far!
Port side stringers are PB'd in and are feeling very solid. Its not the cleanest job but first time working with the West System products so I thought it wasn't bad! I am amazed at how sturdy the hull is now. When the old stringers were still in, it felt like a wet sponge. That "PB" mix dries tough as nails! Starboard side should be complete next week.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psd0eeaade.jpg
Looking good. Those are some seriously think stringers! Have you thought about how you're going to glass them? I would think that putting a radius on the top edges would make it a lot easier to wrap the glass over them. But then again, it looks like you've already done the inner stringer, so maybe you've figured this out.
Yes and no lol we oversized the stringers because we left the main stringers down the centre of the hull intact and they are " just ok", Only replaced the supports near the cradle. The problem was that I didn't think ahead before I sealed the wood and radius the edge for the glass overtop, I guess seeing all the progress got me a wee bit excited. The plan is to take a sander to them and re seal the edges.Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Well guys, we went to the lake for a test float before we put the foam in and glass in the floors.
Couple of small in holes to fill in around the new swim platform support brackets, and some extra fiberglass on the stringers/transom and we should be ready for finishing! Even though there is no gas tank, we are amazed at how high the arse end is sitting in the water. Swim platform used to sit on the water, now it's like 4" higher. The exhaust ports are barely 3/4 submerged!
Sorry for the small photos, iPad photo bucket app! More photos to come. My old man with the boat.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps9073f769.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps0d6520d6.jpg
Lookin good!! Glad it floated well for you. Now that platform is up where it belongs!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Thanks Villain!
I'm not super pleased with the way my fiberglass Job turned out, the heavy duty matte is hard to work with and soaks up a lot of resin. Got as many air bubbles out as i could. Should I be worried about it separating from the hull? I made sure to resin the hull, then lay the matte then roll out more resin until it would not take anymore .
Could I add some CSM over top for any added structure?
CSM won't make a huge difference in strength, but it will look a lot better and smooth out better.
Here is a larger version of that photo. We haven't gone over the top of the stringers yet, still trying to figure that one out.Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
The more I look at it, the more it looks like it needs more strength, really hard to tell though. Looks like it has good penetration. On a side note, what thickness wood did you use for your floor boards? We are using 1/2" OSB sanded on one side.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps1a6f29ff.jpg
I have a two chips on the starboard side below the water line that are similar to the photo below (not my boat). The glass isnt cracked as bad but I can still see the fiberglass (Black). When we test floated the boat, we noticed a bit of water inside the boat where the hull steps down just behind the drivers seat. For the life of us we cant find any area where the water is coming in, and it is not travelling from somewhere else. The rest of the hull in that area looks to be in perfect shape!
Could chips like this cause any water penetration? We don't know where it came from but if it was a sharp impact it could of put a pin hole leak..
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...7/DSC05186.jpg
Did you round the top of your stringer off? Makes it a lot easier to get the glass to form. What I did was just used 3/4 oz mat and saturated it with resin and then layed it on top with about a 4-5" overlap on each side. Here is a pic of it rounded off before any glassing...Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbee1f914.jpg
I just used one of my 60 grit flap wheels and rounded the tops off, or atleast added a radius to them.
Had the same issue, but I know where mine came from... A rogue screw broke the gel coat (the screw was verticle and pushed the fiberglass out and cracked the gel coat on a spot about the size of a quater)Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra_Comp
I made up some resin and filled the hole. Sanded it down as best as i could and just put as little gel coat as I could (didnt match color). Sand and repeat till it was smooth.
Its the one thing we jumped a step on, rounding the wood off so the fiberglass would form to the edges (guess we got a bit excited seeing the progress!) We may go back smooth them off and reseal with resin. If it makes a big difference on the structure I will do it but the wood is coated with like 3 layers of resin so I highly doubt it will ever rot if that is all its there for.
We used a pretty heavy weave matte (1844 I think it was) to get the most structure on the sides of the stringers. What is best for over the top?
I did the top mainly to seal, that is why I just used a saturated piece of chop mat. Some people used the 1708 from side to side up and over.
More updates.
The transom was rotten and the platform was causing major flex so we replaced the wood, fibre glassed it in and then used 1/8" aluminum plates to help spread the load on both sides plus through bolts and a ton of 3M 5200. No leaks here! Instead of flexing the transom, when pressing down you now move the entire boat. Success!
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psca3d1242.jpg
No major description here. All leaks were sealed up, and flotation foam was poured in. In the areas where we had to trim the foam we will be using epoxy to seal it so no water will penetrate over time. First time using it, hard to get the compartment volume exact hence the small pours here and there. Could care less about aesthetics! Happy to see this stage.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...psadb36c33.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps7e0333e6.jpg
It's all looking good, but I really like the work you've done on the transom. That's a nice improvement over factory.
Thanks Titan, we debated about adding the 1/8 plates for extra support mostly due to the fact we didn't know how it would seal up but it seams to hold well. They only cost me about $4 each so it was cheap insurance.Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Well all, no update pics but we hit some cold weather and decided to winterize the boat and put it in storage. We have the floors glassed in and sealed up, next stage is a few bits like exhaust tubes, clean up the engine, etc. and finishing the interior.
My question is this. We have a line on some maroon marine grade carpet that is super plush and comfy for a good price. I normally would say to go with grey which is the colour we has in recently but I have a feeling it may look better going back to the original. What's your opinion? We are doing new side panels so if we redo those we may add some same colour vinyl as an accent.
Haugy/Titan- you guys both had maroon in your boats correct? How is it in the sun, hot?
I think it would also be ironic as we bought the boat with maroon carpet....went full circle!