That's disappointing Clint. I'm sure it was a sinking feeling when you were spinning those rear lags. At least you have a plan for making it right, but who would have expected the need to go through this after a complete rebuild.
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That's disappointing Clint. I'm sure it was a sinking feeling when you were spinning those rear lags. At least you have a plan for making it right, but who would have expected the need to go through this after a complete rebuild.
When you put the 1/2" lags in as a final attachment, you might put some 5200 on them, too. Something to think about.
To correct the situation with the rear lag holes, I installed 1/2" lags in place of the 3/8 lags going down through the top of the rear motor mounts. This required drilling a slightly over-sized hole in the mount, and then pre-drilling a larger hole in the stringer. The motor is definitely tightened down now . .
Alignment is done to within .002" and with the new prop I think I'll be in good shape - let's hope!
What's left to do? Hookup and adjust the throttle and shift cables, rewire the motor and under the dash, finish the raw water plumbing, and install a battery isolator. Then I'm ready to test the drive line and make whatever adjustments to the trailer I'm going to make.
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03336.jpg
Has anyone installed a new PSS seal? My original Lasdrop seal did not use water for cooling but the new PSS one does. The manual says to get the water from the 1" hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the starboard exhaust manifold. Has anyone done this? It seems like it would be better to use colder water to cool the seal, but I do not want to rob water from the motor . . . What about installing a metering valve in-line to adjust the water volume flowing to the seal? Or, am I thinking about this too much?
Bummer on the mounts, but sounds like you got it licked.
I haven't installed my PSS yet, but don't think it really matters much where you tap into the system for a water source as long as it's under pressure. I think the main mechanism of cooling by the water supply to the PSS is by purging any air pockets around the seal - not by the cooler water temp itself.
It's only a 5/16" hose, so not going to rob much water from anywhere. I plan on using the extra 1/2" FNPT plug near the outlet on my engine water pump.
Mike - that sounds like a good plan at first, but I'm wondering . . if you tap into the closed loop of the engine when the thermostat is closed, you would then be depleting the water in that loop and only replacing it after the t-stat opened back up. Am I thinking right? I realize that most of us run the boats in warm weather when the t-stat is almost never closed, but it does happen. If you tap in on the "back side", outside of the loop then it wouldn't matter to the engine if the t-stat was opened or closed. I think.
Doh, I shoulda thought of that. I didn't take a close enough look at the tstat housing plumbing. Thanks for keeping me from blowing up my engine. Oh well, guess maybe we should just follow the manufacturer's original directions...
Finished up the shaft seal last night. It was difficult to get a second hose clamp on the shaft log end of the boot because the boot was up against the hull, so I had to install a clamp that was more narrow on the end. Some hose fittings are left off in the pics because I did not purchase them until this morning. The cooling water for the seal is brought in from between the t-stat housing and exhaust manifold.
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/c8cae13c.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/a47db26a.jpg
Turned out looking really good Clint.
Ford or Chevy same place, never had a problem with the pss seal.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...r/P1030791.jpg
Congrats on the install - nice upgrade.
A little more progress. The new strainer is installed (this is an addition) and all the plumbing is finished. Now I will move on to wiring the motor.
New parts this year:
Valve covers and gaskets and breather
Oil pan gasket
Exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts
Spark plugs
Alternator
Belts
Coil
Strainer and inlet hoses/fittings
Prop shaft seal
Prop
Motor Mounts and Lags
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03360.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03362.jpg
Thanks for the head's up on getting two clamps to fit at the rear of the PSS and shaft log. I checked mine & had to grind a little gel off the bottom of the log opening, but now the bellows slides on square & two clamps fit. Thanks again.
Nice job on the strainer. Have you checked to make sure it'll clear the doghouse? Mine was originally tilted at an angle to clear the storage box at the rear of the engine cover (but I've got a big block & things are a little tighter under there).
Man, that engine, bilge, heck everything looks sharp. Great work & inspiration.
Edit - just saw your other post where you checked for strainer clearance. Glad you beat me to it.
Looks really good Clint!
You should name her "All Out" cause man you went ALL OUT! :)
Got her running last night in the driveway - started right up! Batteries are charging and all is good. I still can't run-test it until the river settles a bit from all the rain (more than 8 inches in April!). I still want to straighten-up the "rats nest" under the dash and do some cleaning - that's it!
Post some more pics! Your boat is a beauty
OK Dusty - you asked for it ( I love to share pics of my baby!) - these are some from last year (phase 1) rebuild. The pictures are buried somewhere on this forum . .
Here's a few of the interior.
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSC02200a.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSC02209a.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSC02206a.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSC02207a.jpg
God I love your boat...I can't wait to get started on the cosmetics of the Saltare i have...but it may be a while.
The only issue I see is that kneeboard...real men stand!
Last week when I ran the motor I noticed a leak at the thermostat housing so I re-sealed it and ran it again - all fixed. I checked the new PSS shaft seal water line and it looks as if there is plenty of water coming out around the shaft, with still plenty coming out the exhaust.
Next step - take care of the rats nest under the dash!
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSC03455a.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSC03462a.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a.../DSC03463a.jpg
Hopefully I will get to lake test the motor and tranny this weekend, hopefully.
That's a pretty clean rat's nest! At least the wires don't look to be 20 years old.
I'm sure it'll look incredible when you're done.
Truly a tastefully dun restoration. She is one gorgeous SUPRA. I have enjoyed looking at all of your pictures. But you haven’t posted any of the power plant that I’ve seen. Come on show us the motor. PS I did notice that there is a missing cup holder. I know shut up Hagman
For Hagman - thanks for the compliments. Are you talking about the missing cupholders on the motor box? If so, we left them out intentionally because I was never crazy about them there. I've got a couple of make-shift cupholders in the back next to the seat that seem to work ok, but I'd like to do something more permanent, maybe.
Here's a pic of the motor you asked for - Stock 351W dressed up a little.
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03156.jpg
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC03155.jpg
Absolute beauty man, thanks for posting those again!
So with the PSS spitting water on the shaft does that allow you to put it in gear out of the lake?
Definitely looks top notch, Clint. I'm interested to see what you end up with under the dash. A dash redo is definitely something I want to do to mine.
Congrats on the seal plumbing. Good luck with the wiring (although it doesn't look too bad) - I'm still a bit intimidated by the wiring job ahead of me. I still wouldn't run it in gear out of the water. The seal face may not get enough water & the strut bushings are still dry.
Good point sybr...I didn't even stop to think about the strut bushings.
No, I did not pit it in gear for the reasons Sybr stated.
Yeah...learned that one the other day, about 3 seconds and squeallllllllllll.
Haha, they are fine though.
Finally got to run the boat yesterday!! Yay!!!!!!
Everything went pretty well. I ran with the motor cover off and the rear floor section removed so that I could inspect things as we went along.
THE GOOD
1. Real happy with the prop! I barely had to give it gas to pull up wakeboards, much less throttle than my previous standard 13x13's (even the 4-blade!) Top end was about 3mph faster - up to 43+
2. Alignment seems to be good - no vibrations!!!
3. New PSS shaft seal never dripped a drop
4. Motor is running strong, starting good, sounds good, looks good . . . . .
THE NOT-SO GOOD
1. When I ran the motor at WOT I found a leak at one of the valve cover gaskets, and I forgot to pack my tools. So I wiped up the mess and kept her below 2500rpm. Easy fix. (note to self - put tools back in the boat!)
2. Fuel is leaking somewhere from the fuel filter. I had it all apart over the winter so probably didn't get something sealed. Should be an easy fix as well.
3. The new PSS shaft seal boot seems to have a wobble in it a around 800-1200rpm. When it wobbles it kind of makes a "clicking" sound as well. When I run at cruising or towing speeds, no wobble, no noise. Not sure about that one. Anybody got experience or suggestions?
We will probably get back out either today or tomorrow, or maybe both after making some adjustments.
What no polish on the hat stand !!! Nice and classy job. The older Sunsports are almost a timeless design.
Haaaa! I knew someone would pick up on that sooner or later. It'll get polished sometime . . . .
Ran her again on Monday and now I have carburetor issues. I think that it is flooding when I shut it off, like maybe the gas is dripping into the intake because if I shut it off and restart it immidiately, it will start back up. But the longer I let it sit, the harder it is to start - like it's flooded. Also the motor back-fired three times on Monday (never had that happen to her before) :(
So I ordered the Holley carb renew kit from skidim this morning and will have it on Thursday or Friday. I hope that takes care of the problem . . . .
Have fun with the 157 parts listed on the exploded diagram. It's not too bad really - clear a nice work area, stay organized, & take your time. Most things will only go back together one way & are pretty obvious.
I got the Holley rebuild kit and talked myself out of doing the rebuild myself since I know a guy that can do it for me. He's one of these "old school" retired hot rodders that builds engines for drag cars. He has a beautiful '55 Chevy big block and has built drag racing engines for several people I know - so naturally I thought of him for my carb. I should get it back today or tomorrow! :cool:
Holy hell man. That's one good looking boat. I feel like I could have surgery on the engine.
Really, top shelf man.
After installing the rebuilt carb I ran the boat on Thursday and the flooding issue is resolved. Also the choke is working for the first time since I've owned the boat! But there was some hesitation on the hole-shot and an occasional "pop" backfire. Other than that it ran out great.
Went out again today with a drag racing buddy and he diagnosed the problem (I hope) while we were driving the boat with the engine cover off and spark arrestor off. Apparently I'm not getting enough extra "squirt" in the primaries on the hole shot, causing it to go lean and hesitate for a second. He made some improvements fine tuning the carb, but still there's some hesitation. So on the way home I visited the guy that rebuilt the carb and we installed a bigger squirter - from a 25 to a size 32. So now when I throttle-up hard I should get plenty-o-gas! Can't wait to find out tomorrow!!!