That's disappointing Clint. I'm sure it was a sinking feeling when you were spinning those rear lags. At least you have a plan for making it right, but who would have expected the need to go through this after a complete rebuild.
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That's disappointing Clint. I'm sure it was a sinking feeling when you were spinning those rear lags. At least you have a plan for making it right, but who would have expected the need to go through this after a complete rebuild.
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Yeah - who'da thought. . . Oh, by the way I try not to use the "s" word when talking about my boat!Originally Posted by TitanTn
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When you put the 1/2" lags in as a final attachment, you might put some 5200 on them, too. Something to think about.
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now she's tight!
To correct the situation with the rear lag holes, I installed 1/2" lags in place of the 3/8 lags going down through the top of the rear motor mounts. This required drilling a slightly over-sized hole in the mount, and then pre-drilling a larger hole in the stringer. The motor is definitely tightened down now . .
Alignment is done to within .002" and with the new prop I think I'll be in good shape - let's hope!
What's left to do? Hookup and adjust the throttle and shift cables, rewire the motor and under the dash, finish the raw water plumbing, and install a battery isolator. Then I'm ready to test the drive line and make whatever adjustments to the trailer I'm going to make.
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PSS Shaft Seal
Has anyone installed a new PSS seal? My original Lasdrop seal did not use water for cooling but the new PSS one does. The manual says to get the water from the 1" hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the starboard exhaust manifold. Has anyone done this? It seems like it would be better to use colder water to cool the seal, but I do not want to rob water from the motor . . . What about installing a metering valve in-line to adjust the water volume flowing to the seal? Or, am I thinking about this too much?
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Bummer on the mounts, but sounds like you got it licked.
I haven't installed my PSS yet, but don't think it really matters much where you tap into the system for a water source as long as it's under pressure. I think the main mechanism of cooling by the water supply to the PSS is by purging any air pockets around the seal - not by the cooler water temp itself.
It's only a 5/16" hose, so not going to rob much water from anywhere. I plan on using the extra 1/2" FNPT plug near the outlet on my engine water pump.
_______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
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Mike - that sounds like a good plan at first, but I'm wondering . . if you tap into the closed loop of the engine when the thermostat is closed, you would then be depleting the water in that loop and only replacing it after the t-stat opened back up. Am I thinking right? I realize that most of us run the boats in warm weather when the t-stat is almost never closed, but it does happen. If you tap in on the "back side", outside of the loop then it wouldn't matter to the engine if the t-stat was opened or closed. I think.
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Doh, I shoulda thought of that. I didn't take a close enough look at the tstat housing plumbing. Thanks for keeping me from blowing up my engine. Oh well, guess maybe we should just follow the manufacturer's original directions...
_______________89 Saltare Resto Project___________
_________Then________________________Now_____
Senior Member
Finished up the shaft seal last night. It was difficult to get a second hose clamp on the shaft log end of the boot because the boot was up against the hull, so I had to install a clamp that was more narrow on the end. Some hose fittings are left off in the pics because I did not purchase them until this morning. The cooling water for the seal is brought in from between the t-stat housing and exhaust manifold.
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Turned out looking really good Clint.
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