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I am going to go with as similar of a replacement as possible. Black is perfect for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty87
Yes, that is a garage door in the middle of my garage. That is where the garage originally ended before a 30' addition was installed in the 90's. Being able to close the middle door to keep heat in and/or dust out of the back half is a very nice feature.
Great progress...the end is in sight.
I did use the SS rubrail and I think it looks great. I ordered mine from Jim Jackson at Viper Customs. Here is what he quoted me in 2009 when I did it, I think it probably cost me another $100 for the freight:
Quote:
The rub rail and insert for your Saltare’, black factory replacement is $275. This comes in coils so shipping is reasonable.
The black rub rail with ¾ stainless insert is $ 395 and will ship truck in 20’ lengths. There is also about $20 worth of screws needed to apply the SS. Best estimate is that it is about $160 more expensive to replace with SS rail.
I just ordered the 50 ft insert tonight from iboats.com. I tried to get 20 ft of the rail but it couldn't process or confirm shipping. The majority of the rail is still good. I'm thinking I can just patch in on the damaged part of the rail. I'll try again tomorrow. Here are the part numbers:
Shopping Cart Details
Qty Item Part # Price
1 1-3/16"x1/2" Black Bulk Flexible Vinyl Rub Rail Insert 50' - Taco V12-4144BKA50-1 $111.80
1 Taco Rigid Rub Rail 1-1/2" Bulk, 20', Black V21-9678BKA20D $66.12
Thanks! It's not that I really don't want the cooler but it is in rough shape. I would rather not cut out my floorboards for a cooler that will undoubtedly leak one day. I will most likely find a cooler that fits in the same spot, and use that to keep the wobbly pops cold. I am considering picking up a yeti cooler for that location.Quote:
Originally Posted by macbookpro
Well this weekend I was pretty busy, and I was hoping to have my whole floor set in the hull. I didn't even make it as far as cutting the plywood for the front section of the boat, but I did manage to get both bottom sides of the first two sheets covered in one layer of 1.5 oz mat. When I went to install my floor, I just wasn't comfortable with the support it had from underneath. Once the floor is glassed to the hull, it will be attached at the sides. The only problem I have with this is that there will be no vertical support from underneath at the sides of the hull, it will just be "hanging" there. I decided to add two more lateral stringers per side. I noticed a little bit of flex in the plywood when I stood on it to test it out and I just worry that even after getting glassed in, time will take its toll and the floor would succumb to the lack of vertical support. I wasn't too thrilled with taking a step backwards, but I would rather take the time to do it now as opposed to after the boat is finished. Needless to say while those new pieces cured to the hull I was pretty well handcuffed for the rest of the evening until they set up. Oh well. It's still cold as F here so no worries.
Tonight I should be able to completely glass those new pieces into the hull, and maybe set the floor depending on how the glass sets up. The new pieces stick out like a sore thumb:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1526.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1525.jpg
That was probably a good move. I put in quite a few cross supports and the floor was really solid when it was done.
Considering the spacing of floor support in a house is typically 24" i think you made the right move.
That is exactly what I was thinking when I did the floor. Pretty much all over the boat, there is less than a 12" span in any given area. I kept reminding myself to add a few more supports, but it was just on the back burner. Then I really put thought into the fact that in those areas, the floor would only have "hanging" support from the fiberglass that goes on top, which isn't the best approach. I just finished bedding the two rear sides of the floor an hour ago, and they felt 1000x stronger standing on them compared to last night. Glad I rattled my brain before it was too late.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supranewbee
I am glad to see this progress so far:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1536.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1535.jpg
Did you screw the floor down?
Yes I did. All of the tops of the stringers beneath the floor were given a heavy coating of bedding compound via a grout bag. Much like a pastry bag, just bigger and more durable. I used enough screws to apply pressure to the outside and hold the sheet in place. The sheets all sat perfectly on top of the stringers. I was even able to peak underneath with a flashlight and saw that there is good contact everywhere that I can see. Im pumped!Quote:
Originally Posted by leetudor
I know it's too late to do anything about this, but you've got me nervous about using regular drywall screws (at least that's what the box looks like sitting there?) You should have used some decking screws or stainless just to make sure that they don't start to rot after a few years. I know you're going to seal the tops but why cut corners now?Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnelson86
Yes, that is what they are. I have used them before in similar applications with good luck. The screws are there just to help bond the floor to the stringers, not for holding the floor down specifically. I may go back over and throw some stainless ones in for good measure once I am all done, but that is what I had at the time I threw the floor down. Those screws should never see water or the light of day again, so they should be just fine. If this boat starts to rot out again, it'll be another 25 years down the road from now and that is almost inevitable with these old boats.
Last night I cut and fit the front two floorboards, as well as glassed the bottom sides. I will cut my bilge access and ski pylon holes before final installation, as well as the holes on each side of the floorboard for cable and wire to pass through. I am hoping to have both floorboards bedded to the stringers by the end of the weekend, and maybe even start to lay some glass on top.
Cardboard for templates:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1549.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1550.jpg
Front piece:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1552.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1553.jpg
Overview shot:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1554.jpg
Cutting glass:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1555.jpg
Getting closer to looking like a boat again. The pace of progress should really pick up now.
Do you have projects for the interior too?
Well I plan on painting the boat, so the interior will be re-done to match. I will be upgrading the head unit and speakers etc, maybe add a 12" JL sub or two since I have them laying around. I plan on adding interior LED lighting as well. I'm not sure what else could be done with the interior to be honest. I will be rebuilding the dog house base as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty87
I took some time last night to set two more support stringers in the center section of the hull, where the walk through is to the bow rider. One 2x4 is in the factory location, the forward one is for extra support.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1561.jpg
I took some time and used the extra bedding compound to give a nice edge to the floor so I can wrap my fiberglass nicely. I will sand this all smooth before glassing, of course.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1560.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1559.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1558.jpg
Tonight I have to see if I can remove my ski pylon from its bracket since it is corroded to together. I will also mount the pylon bracket to the center stringers and paint the front section of the bilge with gelcoat since I wont be able to get under there once the floor is in place. I hope to have the pylon and floor installed by the end of the weekend, and maybe start some glass work.
You are most likely going to have to cut the pylon out by making a vertical cut on the rear of the bracket to get the pylon out, then you will have to grind the pylon down a little bit to remove the material and then weld the cut that you made on the bracket. That's what I ended up having to do after struggling for weeks to get mine out.Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnelson86
Yea I was planning for the worst, it doesn't seem like it will come out without a fight. I actually considered removing the ski pylon totally, since I will be using the tower all of the time. I also considered fabbing up a rear mounted ski pylon like some fo the new V-Drive boats.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetlink
I am also considering just installing the pylon and slipping the floorboard over it. We'll see what the weekend entails.
I'd vote to remove the pylon. You'd be surprised how much more room you'll feel like you have without it in the way.
I left it out too. The only thing I missed about it was the pylon was a decent place to hold onto if someone was sitting on the engine cover underway. It does feel roomier in general without it.
Lmnelson, do you have enough of a lip on the stringers to support the removable floor section over the bilge? One of the pics looks like there isn't much.
Thanks for pointing this out, I may take a better look when I get home. If I remember correctly, the removable floor in my boat sat atop of these white blocks. These white blocks are a hard plastic that were used to hold up that section of the floor. Someone correct me if they are for something else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty87
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...6/IMG_0858.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...6/IMG_0856.jpg
Well I must say I am surprised at both of your responses, I thought for sure I would be an odd duck for wanting to remove the ski pylon! I am unsure of what to do to be honest. My mother is a phenomenal water skier, and I can think of a handful of friends who would like to try. I would hate to not have the option available. Maybe I will fab up a rear mounting pylon...hmm. Decisions Decisions.Quote:
Originally Posted by wotan2525
If you have a phenomenal skier in the family, that pylon will be your best friend when pulling. I have pulled a skier from the transom on my boat and they kept pulling the stern with them much like I was pulling behind a jet boat, I was very active with the steering wheel to keep the boat pointed in the right direction. Personally for me, I am more a skier than anything else so it was a no brainer to keep the pylon.
My floor rested on something very similar to those blocks, though I plan on replacing that setup with something a little better when the time comes.
Thank you for the input. I think I may retain the pylon, it certainly will not hurt anything. I may also upgrade the manner in which the removable floor sits on the hull. Maybe Ill do some aluminum or stainless angle iron.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetlink
I opted to keep my pylon too. It's handy for skiing and bare footing, but it's also a constant hand hold for me as the driver. One time I mounted a Go-Pro to the top of the pylon and I found out just how often I put my hand there. I was constantly grabbing the Go-Pro and messing up the filming. I find it a great place to hang a coiled ski rope, let a towel dry, etc. Everyone has their preferences. You won't stand out either way.
I decided to keep the pylon after consulting with my family. I was unable to remove the pylon from the bracket, Im assuming the corrosion inside the bracket is incredible because I had the whole thing orange hot and the pylon would still not come out. Oh well. In order to keep my bracket square to the stringers, I had to make a small spacer plate. The port stringer was less than 1/4 inch out at the top, and the bracket was not perfect. This was the easiest solution to the problem, and will be just fine.
I was able to get the rest of the floor set in the hull this weekend, as well as hit some of the bilge and transom with gelcoat. I had to paint the center/front of the bilge before I put the floor on, because I would never be able to reach in there afterwards. I ended up having enough left over to do the transom as well. I thought I would end up being short, as gelcoat is pretty thick. Once I mixed in the wax and hardener, it seemed to thin out quite a bit, which is fine with me. That means more coverage per gallon.
Majority of the perimeter of the floor has been tabbed in, with exception of the very rear 18" and the front sheet of plywood. I have to sand some of the gelcoat off before I finish the rear part for better adhesion, and the front section needs some sanding as well to remove the original floor paint for the same purpose. I was unable to do the sanding since the bedding compound up front was still wet and I did not want to contaminate it.
The removable rear section of the floor was pretty rotten so I made a new one of those as well as new backing for under the rear seat. These pieces are the ones screwed into the floor to keep items from sliding into the gas tank area of the bilge.
I hope to have the rest of the floor tabbed in tonight, as well as maybe get started on glassing the floor. I am going to sand all of the edges of the floor where they meet the stringers so that they have a nice soft edge for the glass to lay, then I should be free to glass the floor in.
Transom Coated in Gel:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1566.jpg
Bilge:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1569.jpg
Pylon Spacer:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1579.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1580.jpg
Cutting the pylon hole:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1581.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1582.jpg
Laying out the thru-floor cable holes
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1583.jpg
Front two sheets of the floor installed:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1584.jpg
Starboard side tabbed in:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1587.jpg
Port side tabbed in:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1588.jpg
Old removable floor section:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1589.jpg
New floor and backstops getting a first layer of glass. The removable section is two sheets of 1/2" plywood with 1 layer of 1.5 oz. mat in between. I was able to glass the other sides of all of these pieces last night, so they just need a final sanding around the edges and a quick brush of resin to be completed.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1590.jpg
Looking great Luke, and fresh gelcoat/paint always makes things look better.
As a user of these forums, I want to say thanks for taking the time to add the pics. Showing a visual is what helps so many other people and that's what these forums are for.
Titan, thank you for the kind words. Posting pictures is my pleasure. I have read through hundreds of threads and thousands of posts on here, and much to my angst there are hardly enough photos. Threads are worthless without photos, you can never have too many. I agree 100% that this is why the forums exist. Taking the time to upload them to photobucket is worth it, because the small pictures suck! Waiting for them to load is a pain also.Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
I'll have to do that going forward. Everything is looking good, Luke! Almost there! Its already getting warm down here is Florida. Things are getting a little more urgent!Quote:
Originally Posted by lmnelson86
You're cruising now. I wish you would have used 4200 or 5200 on the bolts for the pylon. You're causing the same problem that caused these stringers to rot in the first place -- encapsulating them correctly and then drilling holes through the fiberglass. Sure, it will take another 20 years to rot but you could have prevented that this time.
Everything that I have drilled through has been sealed with resin afterwards, before the bolts go in. Water should never see that height, as it will be kept high and dry when not in use.Quote:
Originally Posted by wotan2525
Coming along nicely, for sure.
This weekend was pretty successful I would say. I was able to get the entire floor glassed in. I used two layers of 1708, the floor is now solid as a rock. The floor also has a layer of 1.5 oz mat on the bottom side. I used a biscuit jointer to install the two 37 degree pieces of the floor up front for the dog house cover. They were glassed in as well.
To do the floor, I used a very short nap roller that I picked up from the fiberglass supply store to apply the resin. I also used the ribbed aluminum roller to squeeze out any air bubbles. This method worked AWESOME. I was sick and tired of dabbing my life away with a brush, and this gave me a nearly perfect surface. With the help of my brother and father working the edges, we knocked out the floor in about 2 hours I think, didn't pay much attention to the time.
Tonight I am going to trim to excess off of the floor, glass/seal the edges as necessary, and prep for gelcoat. I have decided to go with Awl-grip for the bilge and transom, so the areas that are painted will get re-done. Awl-grip has a tighter finish than gelcoat, which can be pretty porous in my application. Awl-grip will allow for a better surface to clean. I was able to just hose off the bilge beforehand with no issues, always revealing a nice shiny surface.
I took Sunday off and spent the day out on the lake with my girlfriend and my buddy watching some snowmobile/quad/bike/truck drag racing on lake st clair. Good times.
Enjoy:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1625.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1626.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1627.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1628.jpg
Front section glassed in, moving on to the second row:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1629.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1630.jpg
Done:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1631.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1632.jpg
Looking good...you're getting close!
Trimmed excess glass last night, sealed all of the edges with a few coats of resin both last night and early this morning. Also got the hole cut for the bilge inspection panel. I hope to either paint the bilge with Awl-Grip tonight or get started on the gelcoat floor. Waiting on webbing agent so I can do the webbing pattern on my floor, so I may just wait until I have all of the supplies before I do that. Picture taken after trimming and before resin etc.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1657.jpg
Last night I rolled the first coat of white gelcoat on the floor. Tonight I will do the second coat as well as the webbing. I have both black and purple for the webbing, not sure if I am going to do both colors or just purple. It'll be a game time decision.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1666.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y16...h/IMG_1665.jpg