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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

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    Quote Originally Posted by lmnelson86 View Post
    Yes I did. All of the tops of the stringers beneath the floor were given a heavy coating of bedding compound via a grout bag. Much like a pastry bag, just bigger and more durable. I used enough screws to apply pressure to the outside and hold the sheet in place. The sheets all sat perfectly on top of the stringers. I was even able to peak underneath with a flashlight and saw that there is good contact everywhere that I can see. Im pumped!
    I know it's too late to do anything about this, but you've got me nervous about using regular drywall screws (at least that's what the box looks like sitting there?) You should have used some decking screws or stainless just to make sure that they don't start to rot after a few years. I know you're going to seal the tops but why cut corners now?
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
    Posts
    272

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    Yes, that is what they are. I have used them before in similar applications with good luck. The screws are there just to help bond the floor to the stringers, not for holding the floor down specifically. I may go back over and throw some stainless ones in for good measure once I am all done, but that is what I had at the time I threw the floor down. Those screws should never see water or the light of day again, so they should be just fine. If this boat starts to rot out again, it'll be another 25 years down the road from now and that is almost inevitable with these old boats.

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
    Posts
    272

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    Last night I cut and fit the front two floorboards, as well as glassed the bottom sides. I will cut my bilge access and ski pylon holes before final installation, as well as the holes on each side of the floorboard for cable and wire to pass through. I am hoping to have both floorboards bedded to the stringers by the end of the weekend, and maybe even start to lay some glass on top.

    Cardboard for templates:





    Front piece:




  4. #94
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
    Posts
    272

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    Overview shot:



    Cutting glass:


  5. #95
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

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    Getting closer to looking like a boat again. The pace of progress should really pick up now.

    Do you have projects for the interior too?

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
    Posts
    272

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    Quote Originally Posted by Salty87 View Post
    Getting closer to looking like a boat again. The pace of progress should really pick up now.

    Do you have projects for the interior too?
    Well I plan on painting the boat, so the interior will be re-done to match. I will be upgrading the head unit and speakers etc, maybe add a 12" JL sub or two since I have them laying around. I plan on adding interior LED lighting as well. I'm not sure what else could be done with the interior to be honest. I will be rebuilding the dog house base as well.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
    Posts
    272

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    I took some time last night to set two more support stringers in the center section of the hull, where the walk through is to the bow rider. One 2x4 is in the factory location, the forward one is for extra support.



    I took some time and used the extra bedding compound to give a nice edge to the floor so I can wrap my fiberglass nicely. I will sand this all smooth before glassing, of course.







    Tonight I have to see if I can remove my ski pylon from its bracket since it is corroded to together. I will also mount the pylon bracket to the center stringers and paint the front section of the bilge with gelcoat since I wont be able to get under there once the floor is in place. I hope to have the pylon and floor installed by the end of the weekend, and maybe start some glass work.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    N.W. Suburbs Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,307

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    Quote Originally Posted by lmnelson86 View Post
    Tonight I have to see if I can remove my ski pylon from its bracket since it is corroded to together.
    You are most likely going to have to cut the pylon out by making a vertical cut on the rear of the bracket to get the pylon out, then you will have to grind the pylon down a little bit to remove the material and then weld the cut that you made on the bracket. That's what I ended up having to do after struggling for weeks to get mine out.
    '86 Comp TS6M - Reborn 2016
    Riding a HO Sports CX Ski

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Lake St Clair, MI
    Posts
    272

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetlink View Post
    You are most likely going to have to cut the pylon out by making a vertical cut on the rear of the bracket to get the pylon out, then you will have to grind the pylon down a little bit to remove the material and then weld the cut that you made on the bracket. That's what I ended up having to do after struggling for weeks to get mine out.
    Yea I was planning for the worst, it doesn't seem like it will come out without a fight. I actually considered removing the ski pylon totally, since I will be using the tower all of the time. I also considered fabbing up a rear mounted ski pylon like some fo the new V-Drive boats.

    I am also considering just installing the pylon and slipping the floorboard over it. We'll see what the weekend entails.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Hudson, WI
    Posts
    2,651

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    I'd vote to remove the pylon. You'd be surprised how much more room you'll feel like you have without it in the way.
    Former owner of a 1987 Supra Saltare. Current owner of a Malibu 23LSV.

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