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What sized wire was in the boat already? My comp came with 0/2 Gauge from the battery to the block. My CC has #2 Gauge I believe and with the old starter the volt gauge almost went to off position. With the mini high torque starter, the volts dont drop past 10 volts. I hate the old plunger starters, so slow, and use so much power.
Well, my ground from the battery to the block was 1 gauge and 7 feet long. And I think that the main power feed was 0 or 0/2. But when the Previous owner installed a perko switch he put 4 gauge between each of the batteries and the switch and also between the two batteries. :-( I also had 4 gauge from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. I did notice some rust/corrosion on the neg terminal that went to the block, so upsizing that and shortening the run by a foot (because I could) made sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by 92SupraComp
I think I have the "newer" style starter with the external solenoid (it's not an old school 1 wire starter).
My problems could have simply been the relay. Maybe extra current from the smaller wires and/or some corrosion. I just figured I'd upgrade and upsize because I can and because I don't want to worry about this crap ever again.
Wait wait wait. Hold the phone. Thats right, you should have a mini high torque starter. How do you have it wired up? The correct wiring should be that the solenoid on the starter constantly has 12 volts, otherwise you have disengaging problems. And on the remote starter solenoid, the switched side should switch the wire that switches the solenoid on the starter its self.
Here, the input side of solenoid built into the starter itself should ALWAYS have 12 volts. Only the Trigger wire should be switched by the External Solenoid.
I'm going to have to use the speed clip trick for my boxes as well. Great ingenuity!
I'm afraid that automotive guy wasn't correct about the starter. They're not sealed like marine starters, and unlike some "marine" stuff, it can make a real difference. I realize that you won't want to change again, so at least I'll ask that you run your blower a lot before starting. I really don't want to read about any bad starter experiences.
I have to say, Supra has the best blower setup, but they still don't do jack. My blower is on the opposite side of the starter. And, the gas fumes rise, I just rais the engine cover on both of my boats, after 2 sec they are all cleared out and ready to go. Best blower ever, plus its silent...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 92SupraComp
Yes, I am pretty confident that I have the starter wired correctly. The main boat power is double stacked on the starter relay with the power wire going down to the starter. The relay has the smaller yellow/red wire going from the other terminal to the solenoid. And remaining two wires on the relay are neutral safety switch (goes to transmission) and the brown one that I am not totally sure what it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by 92SupraComp
Here's a pic of how it's wired:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...UNSET%255D.jpg
And that matches the concept on this diagram and what you guys were talking about:
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/images/...olinstruct.jpg
And here's a pic of how it looks at the starter end.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...UNSET%255D.jpg
Well, if they are seriously that different, then I could swap them back. The starter guy is rebuilding my PCM ARCO starter again for free. It'll be done soon. I was thinking about just keeping the automotive one since it has a lifetime warranty...Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Changing the starter really isn't that big of deal. With the doghouse all the way off, it's damn easy to get to. Plus, I bought an upsized new zero gauge relay to solenoid wire (yes, completely overkill) so I'd have to get in there to change it anyway.
I found this description that ACTUALLY tells the difference in a marine vs. auto stater. Of course, it makes me question if the rebuild guy on my PCM will put it back together with the correct marine spark arrester plate and stuff. I am pretty sure he's replacing my bendix drive... Who knows, he could rebuild my starter w/o using the "marine" specific stuff and I could go to the effort to swap back and have a false sense of security...
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...r-details.html
Would you likewise say that there's a big difference in the "marine" starter relay vs. the Ford 351 starter relay? I sure liked the immediate availability of the Ford relay and the $10 price tag...
I would definitely ask the starter guy if he put the marine parts back in. And if you're convinced he did, it's worth trying to switch them out again.
No, I don't think there's much of a difference in the relay itself. Many times when something is marinized, it's simply made with better, stronger, or less corrosive materials. No being in a salt environment, and when the components aren't safety related, and because I'm only on a lake and not the ocean, it's not a big deal to me. An example is the water pump on the block. An automotive one costs $20. A marine costs $120. I can buy 10 auto ones before I approach the cost of the marine one. And what happens when they go bad? They weep water. Is it hard to replace? Not at all. So why buy the marine? The ONLY difference is the stainless backing plate versus a steel one.
I don't blindly buy the marine version, but for starters it can be the difference between a safe boat ride, or Kaboom. I don't mess around with that one.
I will ask...Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanTn
Yep -- I'm not one to go throwing money away on Marine parts that are the same (or good enough") as the auto ones, but you can't and shouldn't be using the auto version.
And to the guy above that said he just pulls his doghouse cover off to "air out" the gas fumes -- gas fumes are heavier than air. This is why you MUST have a marine starter. Gas fumes/vapors will sit down low in your bilge and if the conditions are just right and there is a spark.... boom!
Always run your blowers. Always use a marine starter.
(And I'm one of the few that's comfortable using an automotive distributor. The fumes/vapors would sit too low for that to cause a problem. Hopefully!)
Well, on the journey of making this an amazing boat I'm on to tackling low voltage at the dash. I have another thread dealing with it, but bottom line is that I'm tracking down more issues that will likely result in cleaning up some connections and maybe running some new wire to the dash area.
On another note, we got a sweet night shot!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...0394395008.jpg
for the dash, every boat, dont care the manufacturer, has horrible grounding. Just add a nice ground buss bar and run extra ground and you will over come the *low volt* problem.
Not on every boat. I thought that initially, and had to run a new power wire from the perko to under the dash. Bit ford engines are really bad with the grounds. Everything has to be clean and in order for everything to run right. Every ford I have worked on is similar in that regard.
Okay, so I ran a new 8 gauge power wire from the perko switch to the distribution stud of the fuse block. I also bought a Bus Bar and installed that below the fuse block. I likewise ran a new 8 gauge run from the battery to the bus bar. I put the perfect pass on it's own circuit and have it going through a relay so it's getting switched power. I gave it a ground to the bus bar. For the first time ever, I got over 12 volts on the PP voltage display with the engine off. From the battery to the PP voltage display, I have about 1/2 a volt loss. I think I can live with that. I'm not sure where PP was getting it's power, but it seems like it was getting it from somewhere that was WAY up by the top of the gauges. I'm thinking that it was just robbed off the power for one of the gauges.
I haven't replaced the ignition or the breaker, but I'm thinking I might do that eventually as preventative. We'll be taking the boat out tonight, so I'll be able to report back on how the PP functioned with the better voltage.
Did some upgrades on the tower!!!
So I splurged and used a little birthday money the wife gave me to get me started on doing some tower speakers. I had read a lot and since my real goal was to get music to listen to while surfing, I knew that I needed to do it "right" and go with the Compression Horn technology. Now there is no way that I can afford to get Wetsounds or Exile or other big name players. I did a lot of research and it seemed like a good middle ground was to go with the Compression Horn Tubbies made by Bazooka. They are still kind of expensive but I got a screaming deal on them via an ebay auction. New pair of black 8" compression horn tubbies for $166 shipped.
This is what they look like:
http://www.crutchfield.com.edgesuite...MT802HB-f.jpeg
I drilled the holes in my tower to fish the wires. I only drilled 3/8" holes and kind of regret going that small. I scraped up the housing on my wires a bit and totally risked stripping the wires. Up the Port side, I ran 2 runs of 14 gauge for the left and right tower speakers, and a run of 18 gauge to power some LED strip lights that I put on the tower speakers. Since I was planning on using the "INT LT" switch to power my tower lights, I ran the 14 gauge wire up the starboard side.
The most effective method for getting the wires fished through the tower was to drill my holes and then tape over all but the two I wanted to fish wire through. Then I taped the hose of my 1 gallon shop vac onto one hole and fed kite string through the other hole. It took a little trial and error, but in the end I was able to have string running through all the key points on my tower and used that to pull the wire. It was also handy to have some picks and small needle nose pliers to get the wire out of the hole if needed.
Rather than drilling holes in my hull, I just decided to feed the wire from the bottom of the tower into the mesh of the air intake grills. Then I drilled a hole in the plastic tray that sits under the grill that the intake tubes go through. All my amps live in the storage compartment below the obverver seat (along with my 2 batteries and my perko switch).
My system is as follows:
- Rockford Fosgate Punch 360.2 Powering the 4 MB Quart Onyx 116 6.5" coaxial speakers. (wired so that the amp sees a 2 ohm load, 180 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch 500s mono (500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms in bridged mode) to a Phoenix Gold 10" subwoofer in a ported box that's covered with bedliner (it was made this way). The box is just behind the walkthrough and I have a cushion on top of it so it functions as a jump seat.
- Phoenix Gold Ryval V1502 to the Compression Horn Tubbies. (4 ohms: 150 watts x 2 chan)
- Using the Wetsounds WS420sq as my head unit. Installed in place of the factory headunit with a pocket above it. One of the inputs goes to a car dock for my smartphone, the other runs to the driver's mesh pocket by the throttle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w...803_161118.jpg
I have one amp mounted to the wall of that storage locker on the wall that faces the walkthrough. Another one and the perko switch are on the back wall of that locker, and the 3rd amp fits on the wall that is on the port side. The 2 batteries are in the middle. I also replaced the Court light there with an LED bulb and have tapped into that circuit to get power to my LED tower light strips. I ran the light strips around the front and back of the tubbies. I'll get you pics of them all lit up soon. I can't wait!!!
I had also found a set of used tower lights on wake world that I was able to pick up for $75 shipped and it ended up INCLUDING the tower clamps! What a score! Of course I would have loved LED's but 5 lights and an aluminum light bar with the clamps was a great deal.
Pics to follow...
I've actually had a chance to hear my system with just the boat speakers and the Tubbies. It makes all the difference in the world. The compression horn tubbies are designed to be 3x louder than their regular tubbies and I believe it. Plus I went with the 8" versions, so that's awesome. The Wetsounds EQ gives me bass/midbass/midrange/treble adjustment of the boat speakers and tower speakers SEPERATELY. Plus it gives me independent level control of the tower speakers, the boat speakers, the sub, and the PA. Yes, it has a built in PA system so that when I talk on the mic, it mutes the music from the tower speakers and those become my PA speakers.
I haven't had a chance to listen to it with the sub in the mix. I bought a slightly different Phoenix gold amp off a kid on Craigslist. He seemed really honest and polite and I was in a hurry so I was foolish enough not to test it on the spot. Turned out that the amp is stuck with the protection light on. He's 17 and has no job and already spent the money, so I got screwed on that deal. I had to man up and buy a new replacement amp online because I'm sick of getting burned on CL and having to wait a ton longer while I figure out how to deal with the situation.
Tonight we'll get to hear the full system. I did crank it up a little in the driveway and it sounded awesome, but I didn't want to piss off the neighbors TOOOOO much...
Here's pics of how the tower turned out. The angle is a little odd and it looks like my tubbies are pointed really wierd, but they're not. they're just a tiny bit outwards from being straight back, and a little bit pointing up so they aim better when the boat is porpoising when surfing.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r...826_170359.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...826_170351.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P...826_170151.jpg
Wow. Impressive setup. Most I did was a $300 budget build in the CC. Im very happy with it. Blows away the blose premium in our 07 LTZ Suburban! How much money you got in that? Me personally, I dont think I could sink that much just into sound...
Also, for the power, the gauges and their back lights are all run off the same small feed from the IGN switch. One small wire daisy chained all the way around. I didnt like having the lights on all the time so, I put a small relay on the back of the tach and the trigger comes off the nav lights. And after my rewire. 14 volts when running, 12 volts not. Good enough for me :) Before it used to set off that stupid beeper. Out of all my friends (the ones with out the full blown EFI engine) I am the only one to still have a working beeper. My CC had it unplugged and when I touched the beeper the back side just fell off breaking the incredibly tiny wires connecting the circuit board to the beeper its self...
Good to know about the electrical.Quote:
Originally Posted by 92SupraComp
Let's see...
Wetsounds EQ: ~$275
4 MB Quart Boat Speakers: $110
Used Punch 360.2 off Ebay: $42 (crazy deal!!)
Used Punch 500s off Ebay: $79
New Phoenix Gold 10" Subwoofer off Ebay: $60
New Subwoofer Enclosure covered in Bedliner: $68
New Phoenix Gold Ryval v1502: $146
New Bazooka Compression Horn Tubbies: $163
New Bazooka tower speaker clamps: $54
Misc Wiring: ~$100 (maybe more, that stuff adds up)
Subtotal: $1,097
Less: Sale of Kenwood Deck <$100>
Less: Sale of Kenwood Speakers <$40>
Net investment: $957
Of course, my PLAN was to only do a "phase 1" build of my system this season. If that was the case, I would have stopped before getting the wetsounds, tubbies and 3rd amp. That would have put me at a net of around $375. So, I more than doubled the price of my system by going with the tower speakers, amp, and Wetsounds EQ.
Of course, ONE pair of Wetsounds Rev8's with the Horn Loaded Compression Drivers costs more than my entire system. So, I've still got a budget version of a big boy system...
Of course, I've got more into it if you count all the LED lights and stuff, but whatever. It's fun to build up a stereo system, and we have a BLAST with it on the water. Tonight I was out surfing and while surfing I could jam to the tunes from the tower speakers. Great fun.
Perfect Pass not cooperating last night
Villain, I'll answer you here since my PP is more on topic in my general boat thread vs the picture thread...
So, when I got the boat, It'd always had a low voltage condition under the dash. I had never seen above 12 volts on the PP display ever. But it was working, so I didn't really mess with anything.
Then we had an evening where I hadn't topped off my batteries, and we went out and PP wasn't able to reel in enough of the soft cord and the wife couldn't get me up to surf speed. Then she forced the throttle and it unwound the cable even more producing slack. Of course, after re-winding the soft cord on the motor, we were able to function normally.
To remedy the low voltage, I brought in an 8 gauge feed from the perko switch and attached that to the stud of the fuse block. I also brought an 8 guage ground to the dash area and connected it to a bus bar that I purchased.
For the first time EVER, I was able to see above 12 volts on the PP voltage display with the engine off. I found I was getting about 1/2 a volt drop between the batteries and the PP display, and that seemed to be a figure I could live with. With the engine running, I was getting over 13 volts on the PP. :cool:
So, my KDW settings from the previous owner were actually 50. But, the PP had always worked pretty decent. Last night I cranked it up to 80 (which as I understand is the bottom end of the 'agressive' setting). And last night, it took forever for the boat to settle into a good speed. In the past the boat would come out of the hole, go a couple MPH over the set speed for a couple seconds, back off to a mile or two per hour below the set speed for a couple of seconds, then it would settle in and function pretty good.
Last night, it took a ton longer (10+ seconds?) at the "faster" speed before it would drop below for a while, then FINALLY, it would start cooperating... But I was having to keep the rope for a TON longer than typical because the pull wasn't consistent. We also noticed that the # sign was showing up with some regularity, whereas we never used to have it show up at all. It almost seems as if the throttle lever was backing off over time and that we'd have to push the thottle lever back down...
The most KDW I tried was 85. I also put it back down to 50 to see what that did. It didn't really seem to make a huge difference... Oh, and all of this was on really nice/smooth water.
The speed reading on the speed display has always been really smooth, so I don't have a big reason to suspect the paddle wheel isn't cooperating.
I'll be giving PP a call soon...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...9205395472.jpg
When the boat slows too much, I get the mush.... #notimpressed
So, I got off the phone with PP. They want me to try NN of 140 and KDW of 80.
I also need to look into my throttle return spring to see if that's getting tired and causing me grief. Likewise, if I'm experiencing "throttle creep" where the throttle isn't wanting to hold the physical position of the lever, then I could look into getting a "throttle cable brake" or even a "bulldog clamp" to add just a smidge more friction in the cable...
I will play with it more this weekend...
On another note, loving the nighttime boat pics!!!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...0392395905.jpg
whats NN and KDW?? Dont have perfect pass :P
also, the return spring that is hooked up to the carb from the intake manifold, that is supposed to pull the throttle back, its a safety thing to keep your hand on the throttle for quick response. On my 2 boats I took the spring off, annoys me when as soon as I let go we start slowing down...
Kdw and nn are settings in perfect pas to control how it responds to speed changes. The return spring is for in case the throttle cable breaks the motor won't run away and it will return to an idle. You should be able to let go of the handle and it should keep its setting.
KDW is how "agressive" perfect pass will change throttle up or down to try to stay at the desired speed. And NN is the setting that controls the level of filtering on the paddle wheel speed reading. I think it's kind of like filtering that's applied to whatever sampling rate that's taken off the paddle wheel reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by 92SupraComp
As far as the throttle control, I prefer that the throttle cables have enough friction that when the lever is pushed down that it stays down until I pull it back up. That friction is the "poor man's cruise control". Like how I have a hand throttle (bicycle friction thumb shifter) on my Jeep. It's a way to set the throttle position and not have to have your foot on the gas (on my Jeep it's useful for when I'm revving the engine to get higher RPM's for my onboard air compressor). I have the same concept with the "throttle lock" on my motorcycle that gives me crude cruise control.
Anyway, the way that perfect pass is designed you push your throttle lever past where you'd have enough throttle to achieve your set speed. Then PP will feed and take away slack into your throttle cable to keep it at the desired speed. Like you give it more throttle than "needed" per the lever and then the PP servo motor can add or subtract cable and keep things at the right position. It's fantastic. We're actually sadly dependent on it for a good surfing experience. It makes it so that someone doesn't have to manage the throttle to have a nice, consistent speed. That frees up the person to watch where they're going, to watch the depth, etc. There's a TON of things required to be an excellent boat driver and PP gives a quantum leap to someone trying to do well at that task. With PP, my wife is a damn competent driver. If we didn't have it, I wouldn't have anywhere close to as much fun in the water.
Anyway, the optimal for the throttle (with or without PP) is for the lever to be able to keep it's setting with JUST enough friction to stay put, but not so much that it binds or that override isn't simple and flawless.
I mean, it's not like I'm going to set the throttle and then go up into the playpen and make a sandwich!! :-D
I call perfect pass a marriage saver. That's all it does IMO. Lol
now, if your cable broke, why would it go run away? the carb its self has a return spring, if the cable breaks its plenty to pull it back given a small amount of time. I know this for a fact, my throttle cable broke on me while I was driving my supra, was cruising @ 3000 RPM, went to give more gas and the level went way down, and then the boat started to slow down... after 5min the boat had slowed to 1000 rpm. Now with the large spring hooked up, my throttle slows down as soon as I let go, like it supposed to, but, I unhook the large spring so I can have a "cruise control" any boat I have been on the extra spring is a safety feature to keep the drivers hand on the throttle...
The spring is there to return the throttle plate in the carb back to idle if the cable is to break, not return the throttle plate back to idle every time you let go of the throttle lever. If you have No return spring on the carb the throttle stays where you last had it set. All carbs have a built in return spring on them. A lot of people and company's add another one for redundancy. Most of the fuel injected boats don't have an extra one as the factory spring is sufficient and stronger than the springs on most carbs. If your throttle is returning to neutral you can tighten the control box up and is what most shops would do If your boat came through. When I get to work I will throw up a pic of the adjustments on the typical fly by wire control box.
Still working with PP. I set the KDW at 80 and the NN at 140, like they told me to. It still isn't working like I'd want. We'll come out of the hole with the PP set at 11.7mph and the boat will go all the way up to 14 for a few seconds, then creep down to like 9, then FINALLY settle in at the desired speed. But the margin of error is WAY too great IMO. I upped the KDW to 100 and didn't see a ton of improvement. This is with 1300 pounds of ballast. I did adjust the wake plate down about 1/2" and that seemed to make the boat drive better with a bit less Porpoising, a touch more power, and less difficulty steering while weighted. It did seem to rob some of our push, but on the 2nd session, I dropped the speed down and it seemed to be at least manageable.
On another note, I came back from a 10+ year hiatus and got back on a ski! Woo-Hoo!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...0943-00_01.jpg
Killer job on the ski!! For my settings I run the NN a little lower than factory and the kdw at the factory settings. This system was designed to work at wakeboard speed, not surf speed so you need to decrease the sample time. I will overshoot just a bit but it comes right back within 20 seconds or so. Also run the plate up as far as you can go and use bow weight to clean up the wave. This way you are displacing as much water as posible making the biggest wave you can. I think I run about 700 under the front seats in a triangle bow sack.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/4umu5e5u.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/2a4yhy6a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/u2y4y9y5.jpg
The pics really don't do it justice. It's easily mid thigh high. And clean for a 19' boat with a ton of push.
Here's a couple more of the plate. And one more of the wave.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/9esa5are.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/erada2a8.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/guhumu5a.jpg
Hmmm... Well, 20 seconds would seem like an eternity. I don't even think that ours is taking that long. maybe 6 to 10 seconds of too fast (14) then maybe 4 to 8 seconds of too slow before it locks into the sweet spot. (We'll have to time it to be sure.)
However, when I first got the boat, the times that it would overshoot, undershoot, then settle into the sweet spot were just like a few seconds on each end. It was freaking amazing. And I don't know why things just started to stretch out.
I know that the previous owner had both the KDW and the NN set REALLY low. Like 50-something each.
Explain to me how changing the NN will change the behavior of the PP...
What I've found on my boat is that adding front ballast kills my push. Maybe I need to adjust my speed to compensate??? But if we have my normal setup (250 under seat, 370 surf side floor next to doghouse, 750 surf side on top of other sack and in back seat) and have 3 people in the boat (driver, center rear, observer seat) and smooth water, it's been fantastic.
Today, adjusting the wake plate a little (down maybe 1/2") and 1 less person meant that the surf speed decreased from 11.7 to 11.2 so maybe I'll just have to play with speed? On the positive side, we found that with the change in the wake plate that it made a big difference in how hard the boat was to steer. We've been finding that it's been hard to steer to the starboard when surfing port. Like a lot of resistance in the steering wheel. Today with the only big difference being one less person and the wake plate change, the steering seemed to be noticeably easier...
Honestly I'm quite happy avoiding using bow weight. on the one side I keep a small toolbox and a (gasp) deflated tube. On the other side I store my fat sacks and pump. I suppose I could pretty easily use a 150 pound small sack on the surf side bow compartment... Because when we take out the sacks, that compartment is empty. But again, it's been damn nice to only have to fill 2 bags with a throw-over and 1 with the ballast puppy... Yeah, the little 150 fills quick, but it's "one more bag" in the mix... I suppose if I found out that things were spectacular by adding a surf side bow bag, then it might make sense to tap that one into the ballast puppy pump too...
I get tired of screwing around with different configurations. At some point I say just deal with it and surf!
Well, went out last night on another Moomba. This one was a 2001 Mobius V. (Hey, at least it's still Skier's Choice, right?) I have to say, I don't know how long I'll be able to keep myself from trying to get into a v-drive. The no ballast wakeboard wake was bigger than mine with my 250 under the seat filled. And we surfed his v-drive with 900 in the surf locker and 750 bow. It wasn't the most world class wave that I've ever had, but it was clean and powerful. Plenty fun and no visible bags. The setup of the boat wasn't "perfect" as I didn't like the floor height and the tower height, but I really look forward to someday having the wrap around seating, storage, and wake of a v-drive.
Night Surf Video:
http://youtu.be/IMQPaRFNjBo
Went out this weekend. Saturday it was just my wife, son and I. So I docked the boat and went and got the truck and backed it down. Then I went back to the boat and started it up and drove it onto the trailer. After it was on the trailer, the key was stuck. It wouldn't move from the "ON" position.
I quickly found out that shutting off the Perko switch doesn't kill the engine, it just cuts the batteries out of the equation--but with an alternator the engine still runs. So to kill the engine, I had to reach under the dash and I pulled the wires from the back of the ignition switch. When I got home I was able to force the key to finally turn and got the key out of the lock; but the switch is done. Power is "on" regardless of where the key is, and the key now spins 360 degrees. Ordered a new 3 position ignition switch from Amazon.com for $16 and change.
Glad it happened at the end of the day after we were done boating for the weekend. (sure, I could have hot wired it, but that's a hassle)
oh no fun! glad to hear it was at the end! Careful about running an engine with no battery. The alternator relies on the battery for regulation and a damper. With out a battery the voltage regulation can suddenly spike really bad frying any sort of electronics!
Well, I wasn't trying to RUN it with no battery, I was trying to KILL it! But it only took me a few seconds to pull the wires off the ignition switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by 92SupraComp
yes I know, but just for future reference ;) some people like to try and run with out the battery, not a good idea...
LED Trailer Runway lights!
see my writeup here: https://forum.supraboats.com/showthr...l-bilge-switch
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...925_215011.jpg
It's been a while since I updated this thread.
- Well, I winterized my boat for the first time in November.
- Had to replace the bilge pump. Decided to go with a johnson low boy 750 GPH bilge pump with a attwood digital switch to control it. No more all in one unit.
- Also tackled the job to replace the rudder packing. It required pulling the gas tank. Ultimately got it done and put in the gore tex packing rope.
- Installed some LED underwater transom lights that used 30 SMD 5050 chips per light. 5.5 watts each @ 80 lumens. I put in six of them.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...507_072201.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...0/image-9.jpeg
- While i was installing the lights and refurbing the rudder, I found some dead space in my boat, so I threw a bag of concrete mix in each corner.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...513_175555.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_...513_180707.jpg
I installed a new articulating tower mirror arm. And I bought both the CIPA extreme and the CIPA Vision 180 and tested them out.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S...514_142006.jpg
In the end, we liked the 180 best so I returned the other one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...74859706_o.jpg
Bought a new surf rack. It has two of the thicker slots and was a great deal at $120 shipped. It's a krypt I got off ebay. You can see it in this pic. (where my poor son had to wear a orange life jacket since I forgot his neoprene one at home).
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...03634031_o.jpg
Found out when I winterized that the previous owner had been using a 750 bag under the rear seats. That was overkill and since I had a 370 tube sack, I swapped them. Ended up having to play with the ballast config some, and ended up that the best surf setup so far is the 370 full under the rear seats, a 750 on the floor next to the engine on the surf side, and another 750 filled about 1/2 way on the back seat and partially on top of the first 750.
I also got a new Tsunami pump, Fly High check valves for all my bags, and a drysuit/booties over the winter.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z...800/photo1.jpg