Interested in a 1992 Sunsport. Need opinions.

[trayson]

So, I got off the phone with PP. They want me to try NN of 140 and KDW of 80.

I also need to look into my throttle return spring to see if that's getting tired and causing me grief. Likewise, if I'm experiencing "throttle creep" where the throttle isn't wanting to hold the physical position of the lever, then I could look into getting a "throttle cable brake" or even a "bulldog clamp" to add just a smidge more friction in the cable...

I will play with it more this weekend...

[trayson]

On another note, loving the nighttime boat pics!!!

[92SupraComp]

whats NN and KDW?? Dont have perfect pass :P

also, the return spring that is hooked up to the carb from the intake manifold, that is supposed to pull the throttle back, its a safety thing to keep your hand on the throttle for quick response. On my 2 boats I took the spring off, annoys me when as soon as I let go we start slowing down...

[villain]

Kdw and nn are settings in perfect pas to control how it responds to speed changes. The return spring is for in case the throttle cable breaks the motor won't run away and it will return to an idle. You should be able to let go of the handle and it should keep its setting.

[trayson]

whats NN and KDW?? Dont have perfect pass :P

also, the return spring that is hooked up to the carb from the intake manifold, that is supposed to pull the throttle back, its a safety thing to keep your hand on the throttle for quick response. On my 2 boats I took the spring off, annoys me when as soon as I let go we start slowing down...

KDW is how "agressive" perfect pass will change throttle up or down to try to stay at the desired speed. And NN is the setting that controls the level of filtering on the paddle wheel speed reading. I think it's kind of like filtering that's applied to whatever sampling rate that's taken off the paddle wheel reading.

As far as the throttle control, I prefer that the throttle cables have enough friction that when the lever is pushed down that it stays down until I pull it back up. That friction is the "poor man's cruise control". Like how I have a hand throttle (bicycle friction thumb shifter) on my Jeep. It's a way to set the throttle position and not have to have your foot on the gas (on my Jeep it's useful for when I'm revving the engine to get higher RPM's for my onboard air compressor). I have the same concept with the "throttle lock" on my motorcycle that gives me crude cruise control.

Anyway, the way that perfect pass is designed you push your throttle lever past where you'd have enough throttle to achieve your set speed. Then PP will feed and take away slack into your throttle cable to keep it at the desired speed. Like you give it more throttle than "needed" per the lever and then the PP servo motor can add or subtract cable and keep things at the right position. It's fantastic. We're actually sadly dependent on it for a good surfing experience. It makes it so that someone doesn't have to manage the throttle to have a nice, consistent speed. That frees up the person to watch where they're going, to watch the depth, etc. There's a TON of things required to be an excellent boat driver and PP gives a quantum leap to someone trying to do well at that task. With PP, my wife is a damn competent driver. If we didn't have it, I wouldn't have anywhere close to as much fun in the water.

Anyway, the optimal for the throttle (with or without PP) is for the lever to be able to keep it's setting with JUST enough friction to stay put, but not so much that it binds or that override isn't simple and flawless.

I mean, it's not like I'm going to set the throttle and then go up into the playpen and make a sandwich!!

[villain]

I call perfect pass a marriage saver. That's all it does IMO. Lol

[92SupraComp]

now, if your cable broke, why would it go run away? the carb its self has a return spring, if the cable breaks its plenty to pull it back given a small amount of time. I know this for a fact, my throttle cable broke on me while I was driving my supra, was cruising @ 3000 RPM, went to give more gas and the level went way down, and then the boat started to slow down... after 5min the boat had slowed to 1000 rpm. Now with the large spring hooked up, my throttle slows down as soon as I let go, like it supposed to, but, I unhook the large spring so I can have a "cruise control" any boat I have been on the extra spring is a safety feature to keep the drivers hand on the throttle...

[villain]

The spring is there to return the throttle plate in the carb back to idle if the cable is to break, not return the throttle plate back to idle every time you let go of the throttle lever. If you have No return spring on the carb the throttle stays where you last had it set. All carbs have a built in return spring on them. A lot of people and company's add another one for redundancy. Most of the fuel injected boats don't have an extra one as the factory spring is sufficient and stronger than the springs on most carbs. If your throttle is returning to neutral you can tighten the control box up and is what most shops would do If your boat came through. When I get to work I will throw up a pic of the adjustments on the typical fly by wire control box.

[trayson]

Still working with PP. I set the KDW at 80 and the NN at 140, like they told me to. It still isn't working like I'd want. We'll come out of the hole with the PP set at 11.7mph and the boat will go all the way up to 14 for a few seconds, then creep down to like 9, then FINALLY settle in at the desired speed. But the margin of error is WAY too great IMO. I upped the KDW to 100 and didn't see a ton of improvement. This is with 1300 pounds of ballast. I did adjust the wake plate down about 1/2" and that seemed to make the boat drive better with a bit less Porpoising, a touch more power, and less difficulty steering while weighted. It did seem to rob some of our push, but on the 2nd session, I dropped the speed down and it seemed to be at least manageable.

On another note, I came back from a 10+ year hiatus and got back on a ski! Woo-Hoo!

[villain]

Killer job on the ski!! For my settings I run the NN a little lower than factory and the kdw at the factory settings. This system was designed to work at wakeboard speed, not surf speed so you need to decrease the sample time. I will overshoot just a bit but it comes right back within 20 seconds or so. Also run the plate up as far as you can go and use bow weight to clean up the wave. This way you are displacing as much water as posible making the biggest wave you can. I think I run about 700 under the front seats in a triangle bow sack.







The pics really don't do it justice. It's easily mid thigh high. And clean for a 19' boat with a ton of push.