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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    54

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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel.j.grossheim View Post
    Looking good, do you have any more photos of how the swim platform attaches? My lower bolt in the swim platform is starting to pull out a bit and Iím hoping I can repair before a full stringer rebuild is needed.
    No, I don't have a good photo, though it is not hard to describe. My swim deck has 2 brackets and each was through bolted to the transom with Stainless Steel 3-prong Nuts. This is a very poor design as it let water soak directly into the transom wood and I ended up cutting the bolts because the prong nuts had nothing to hold onto once the transom wood rotted away.

    However with my boat being the first model of the first year of production, there were many things that were changed over the subsequent years. Hopefully they switched to a better design for your boat.
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  2. #22

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    Thanks for following up and sorry to derail your thread a bit. Mine has 3 brackets and a two bolts through each bracket. The lower bolt on one is loose, you can see the bracket puking away from the fiberglass when you lift up on it slightly. Iím trying to see if I have to remove backseat/gas tank to repair or can I attempt to repair only get to it from the water side. Definitely will be a winter project, just trying to get a few more uses out of it this season without allowing more water in. I will be testing the stringers behind the seat next weekend when Iím back home to test them for rot.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by daniel.j.grossheim View Post
    Thanks for following up and sorry to derail your thread a bit.
    No worries, you reminded me to update this thread for those that maybe interested.

    Transom is in fully. I just have to cut out the exhaust holes and it will be complete. Please note that the tabbing on the transom was my horrible first attempt at fiberglassing and since has been corrected.

    The main stringers are in and tabbed and cut close to proper height. By chance does anyone know of a good way to verify how far down the cap walls will go down? I am fairly certain I have measured the floor height correctly, but would like another way to validate.

    The side stringers are glued in and ready to be tabbed in this weekend.
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  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    54

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    Happy birthday to "The Money Pit"! Turning 40 sometime this month if not already.

    Too bad it is still under rebuild to take a lap around the lake.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    2,164

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by h2o-ski View Post
    ...By chance does anyone know of a good way to verify how far down the cap walls will go down? I am fairly certain I have measured the floor height correctly, but would like another way to validate.
    If your cap is anything like the later 80s models the inner walls can be trimmed as needed. Whatever they are adding structurally isn't dependent on the height provided you don't cut them so short they don't reach down all the way to the new floor. I remember trimming mine a bit but don't recall how it all happened. The cap must not have fit quite right so out came the grinder. Can't remember if the cap was re-lifted or not. I think I just covered the carpet well and ground it on the spot.

    It's great to see people still rebuilding these boats!...and outside too. You go!

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Thank you for feedback and the confidence boost. Fiberglassing in the Texas heat really does wear down on ya. I went and confirmed that there is about 1/4" lip that allows for even more leeway. Worse case is I get after the floor with a grinder.

    I was on the fence about rebuilding the boat when I picked it up, however finding out it was a first model year boat convinced me that the boat needed to live longer.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    54

    Default Test Fit

    Time for an update. This past weekend I rebuilt the gantry cranes and got the repaired cap (she is not going to win any beauty pageants) back up in the air. Boy were my measurements wrong in the transom area. I was off by at least 1/2" . I made some marks where the side walls met the side stringers. I went out and bought a laser level so that I could get a straight line.

    A side note, I did get the floor of the new battery compartment tabbed in. As long as the stringers don't get cut down too much the battery will fit nicely up front.
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  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Progress report
    Built bulkheads to help prevent water intrusion and support the floor. I have 3/4" flooring planned.
    I placed the cap on one more time and everything looks to be close. So far the cap split repair is holding up, though I need to fix a few minor areas.
    You can also see the planned battery compartment up front.

    Just need to order exhaust hose so I can then get the decking in.

    As of today I have over 250 hours logged and that doesn't count the countless hours planning, searching for parts or prepping for the next step.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Lake Nottely, Blairsville, GA
    Posts
    1,213

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    Nice quality restoration for THE MONEY PIT. I love it. Sounds about right for any boat, at least mine for sure. You did a bang up job getting that hull cleaned and sanded.

    No issues with 3/4" floor and top cap meeting? You allow for that in the stringers? Was that the original size for flooring? I was under the impression of 1/2" ply was standard for most of these classics.

    Do I spot the original fiberglass exhaust tubes? My Rider had those and they sounded great with the SupraTraps. Now I have stainless and not quite the same sound as I had originally before the 2009 stringer job.

    You doing any foam? Most guys opt for no foam nowadays, but I prefer it. I see the scupper holes.

    Good luck and glad you got your top cap repaired somewhat. I cried when I saw that. I will be crying over mine for sometime...thanks to the incoming invoices.

    1983 Supra Rider aka Mischief IV
    1983 Supra Beast
    1985 Supra Rider
    1986 Supra Sunsport Skier
    1987 Supra Marauder
    1991 Supra Comp ts6m
    2012 Supra Sunsport 242

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    54

    Default

    The floor that I pulled out was 3/4" marine ply. My uncle replaced the floors after he got it because they rotted out back then. The cap has been back on the hull 3 times to make sure there is room for them. The original stringers were not level and the main stringers were lower than the sides.

    Yes those are the original silencers, good eye. Though I'm still on the lookout for new exhaust tips. I through out the original fiberglass tubes that went through the transom.

    Don't tell the Coast Guard, but no I am not going to use foam. I know that it helps with noise but trying to keep the cost down. My idea is that if it can be exposed to water, it drains to the bilge. You can get the idea with the areas that are gelcoated. I'm waiting for the floors to go in so I can gelcoat the entire boat at once. The corners of the transom are not gelcoated because I am going to have stainless steel plates with bolts welded to the plates. Then I will fiberglass the plates in place to make them permanent.

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