1988 Supra Mariah: Floor and Stringer Restoration and more...

[flipz96]

Usually a big c clamp is used to apply pressure which I didn't have access to. I just used screws with washers and drilled from the swim platform holes to draw it back to the transom.



I simply used duck tape to cap off the nida core stinger tops. Any extra resin I have from a batch, I pour on the outside of the stringers to help create a natural fillet. I create it anyways using the "peanut butter", but every little bit helps.

[flipz96]

I finally removed the forward keel stringer. Since I couldn't get all the way down with the diamond cutter. I found it easier to cut it down the middle with the diamond to peel back the glass on each side and cut what you can then cut the wood. Getting most of the wood out will give you room to take the diamond cutter close to the hull then pry the rest of the wood out. As I got closer to the bow the wood was good so I left the top part attached. Everything will be fully encapsulated so it should be fine.





I packed several layers of 1.5 csm in the keel and topped it with a thick layer of 3610. I will pack this with spray core and foam core which will all be sanded smooth, then add another layer of 3610. I do plan on leaving the bow area open to be able to stuff a ballast bag up there. I will put a bulkhead on the fwd side of the cooler area with limber hole to allow any water to drain into the bilge. There will be a flat area where I can place a removable cooler. The built in was made of a plastic which is really discolored and is beyond cleaning.

[flipz96]

I got the outer stringers sanded down using an orbital sander to get most of it out, then followed with a belt sander. I used 1.5 oz csm over the outer stringer area to even out the surface. I will use foam core on the outer stringers. which I still need to cut to shape. The first layer of csm was used to cover the stringers that I have so far. I plan on pulling a layer of travira on the top only which is would allow the glass to hold screws. I final layer will be 3610 which is an overkill, but is better than an underkill.

[leetudor]

What is coosa board?

[flipz96]

What is coosa board?

Its an alternative to wood. Its basically foam reinforced with glass strands.

http://coosacomposites.com/products/...uewater-panels

[leetudor]

Looks like a product that was made by Penske Composites that Tige used in their boats.

[lmnelson86]

Looking good man. I did the same thing on the transom, used screws and fender washers to suck the new pieces tight to the back. Are you going to use the OEM speedometers? I decided to not use mine since they require drilling so many holes in the transom for mounting the pickups and pass-thru fittings for the tube. I am trying to drill as few holes as possible in the boat to prevent rot. I'll probably pick up some GPS speedometers (probably just one) this summer or in the fall after I use the boat and see what I like.

[flipz96]

Looking good man. I did the same thing on the transom, used screws and fender washers to suck the new pieces tight to the back. Are you going to use the OEM speedometers?.

As of right now, I plan on using them. I bought new gauges and hoses and I plan on redoing the dash.

[flipz96]

So...I decided to remove the nub of wood that I initially left in the bow keel. I just didn't sit well with me after all I'm doing to remove all wood from this boat. I did the same as the lower. Several layers of csm, layer of 3610, spraycore, and another layer of 3610. It should be stronger than before. I am also going to leave that area open to make room for ballast underneath instead of on the bow seats.

[flipz96]

I was lucky enough to grab scraps of Prisma Preforms from a 50+' project we are working on. These are basically closed cell 2lb foam wrapped in in 24 oz glass.