Drive shaft seal failure . lasdrop bellow

[chris young]

It is highly recommended that you replace the coupler whenever you pull it off the shaft, as it should be press fit on to the shaft, and once you pull it off it'll slip back on. I wrestled with spending the extra 120 bucks when I pulled mine but ultimately felt that it was needed. I bought a split coupler to replace the original, and in theory I should be able to put that one back on if I pull it. For sure your shaft should not align with the rudder, that way you can pull the shaft without pulling the rudder.

I pulled mine last year, and did as much as I could think of before putting it back in the boat. Replaced the strut bushings, checked the shaft for runout and penetrant checked it for cracks. Lap fit the prop (much easier to while it's out of the boat) and replaced the shaft log and packing.

[lively]

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/basket.aspx check this out , whats this noise about fitting and facing the coupler to the tail of the shaft ? ill have to pull it back off to put it in the boat

[Jetlink]

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/basket.aspx check this out , whats this noise about fitting and facing the coupler to the tail of the shaft ? ill have to pull it back off to put it in the boat

An empty shopping cart. Did your boat retail therapy get denied?

[chris young]

I'm guessing that that's not an issue if you want to fit and face it. (The link doesn't show correctly as Jetlink pointed out but I can kind of guess) I'm not an expert, but from what I understand it's not the act of putting the coupler on the shaft that will require a new one, it's running the coupler on the shaft for a time. I can't see that fitting and removing a coupler will make it loose on the shaft, which is why we normally replace the coupler when it's removed. ie, if it's not a tight fit, then it needs to be replaced.

[lively]

SHAFT A-19 part for shaft

50MC004100 part for coupling

02100134 part for shaft seal


http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/basket.aspx

insert the part number and yall tell me what you think .. its like 556.00 shipped for all 3 .. which is a good deal for sure

[lively]

ok guys i need some advise , I plan to purchase a new shaft , new coupling , new Shaft seal (pss i believe) , and a acme 541 13x12 .. do i need to replace the cutlass bearings too ? i attached a picture to show what i have .. it is not all one piece like the ones i see on the .net .... is there difference with having two piece cutlass than one ? IMG_1220.JPG

[CJD]

It looks like one piece to me.

[lively]

It has (2) 3" pieces . Maybe PO cut a 6" ?

[Salty87]

From what I can remember, lol, mine were cut like that, too. Those bearings look worn. Might as well put new in while you're at it.

Before you buy, you might give Nettles prop shop in Austin a call. They really know their stuff and are very competitive on price...even Acme props.

[SquamInboards]

I agree on putting in new cutlass bearings while you're already doing all the rest of this work. If you aren't concerned about adding the cost I'd do it no question.

Back to the original failure - that looks like a dripless shaft seal, but without the hose. Am I crazy? Maybe that's why it failed in the first place? Or is the hose just not visible because it ripped off?