Clacking/tapping noise due to blown head gasket

[roosm]

If you are sure it is not a crack, don't worry about the slight corrosion in the cylinder. It will eventually fill in with carbon and not cause any problem at all. I bet the compression check on that cylinder was fine before the head came off.

.1" in the head is, indeed, too deep to fix. It had to run for a very long time with a hole in the gasket!

How is the block between the 4 and 6 cylinders?

Yeah, all cylinders except 4 and 6 read 195-210, this was one of the 210's. So it is fine.

Well, we have a new theory (from a Swedish forum) which I am starting to believe in.
We need the background story first.
This boat was originally purchased by me from a guy running a workshop in Georgia. The boat had previously rolled off its trailer bending the tower, messing up prop-shaft, windshield, damaging the front left side of the boat etc.
The guy running the workshop bought the boat off the insurance company. He had a good friend that owned a 2002 Supra Launch SSV and he borrowed his boat and used it as a mold to create a new front left side about 2 feet long or so.
This was put in place on what was eventually to be my boat. I bought the boat in rough shape with the restoration of the boat included in the price. They actually made a really nice job of putting it back together and I got my custom paint job which I really like. During this summer the friends Launch SSV which he evidently almost never used sat at the machine shop for most of the summer. Some parts arrived late and some other parts were deemed broken too late so we salvaged a few pieces here and there from the other Supra. Tachometer, Speedometer, Swim-platform, Windshield etc. =)
This guy didn't really care too much about his boat and/or was a really good friend to the mechanic.

Finally the day came when the boat was ready for a lake-test, we were just a week away from the day the boat was scheduled to be shipped to Sweden.
We took it out on the lake and after running a little while we started overheating. The guy driving the boat had full control of the gauges and quickly turned it off, let i cool down and we soon idled back to dock (or might even have got towed). Back to the shop and sure enough the oil-cooler-filter was plugged with sea-weed (such a poor design). Removed the sea weed and went to the lake again. Much better cooling but the guy driving almost didn't take his eyes off the dashboard.
Suddenly the oil pressure dropped to 0. He quickly turned of the engine but it was too late. The engine was frozen. Bearings shot.
So the guy running the shop had to make an awkward call. He called the owner of the other Supra and it went something like this:

Hey man!
---
Are you planning on using your boat this weekend?
---
Oh, good! I need your engine....

And so the night was spent to lift this other engine into my boat. This engine was a year newer with about 300 hours less if I remember correctly.
So I have the engine from the boat that the owner didn't really care if his engine, swim platform etc was removed from.
I have a feeling he whether he was just a really good friend or not, was not the kind of guy to be careful with his things.
Did I mention he was a professional athlete and I think competing in MMA?

So... Back to the theory..
The engine overheated causing a head gasket failure sometime during 2002-2008. The engine ran like this at least a few minutes going in to dock and maybe longer. The only symptom (really) being loss of power and rough running.
The owner took the boat to his good friend the mechanic. The engine was taken apart and they found the cylinder head in awful shape. The gasket was blown, the head had eroded since hot exhaust had jumped back and forth.
They were left with two options. Either get a new head or machine off some of that eroded metal and try to seal it with something, from the looks of it, they used something chemical, they didn't weld anything on it. But hey, I could be wrong here.

Lets say this happened on the 2nd of July and the big holiday was coming up with a party on the lake and they needed a quick fix that hopefully would at least last the day.
Turns out it lasted at least 7 years...

Might be a long shot, but if anyone would try to piece it together with something like Colexin and succeed, it would be the guys running that shop...

So, I am leaning towards picking up a new vortec head and bolting that back on there and hope for the best...

Anything else I should take care of while I have it apart?

Mike

[roosm]

Hi,

Would this be the correct part?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Pe...p=mtr#shpCntId
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Performan...9Vy9Us&vxp=mtr

Shipping to sweden for those arent too bad. 80 bucks. And then I have to pay another 100 bucks for duties and customs.
Comes to around 500 bucks for the head.
Locally the exact same part costs 800 at least.

Then this + the gasket set should set me back 630 bucks. And that isn't too bad if it gets me up and running again.

Mike

[CJD]

Interesting story! I've always believed the way to keep engines running is to keep mechanics away from them. I've spent half my life repairing shoddy work. I have to say, though,that this Georgia dude takes the cake!!

[2500HD]

Hi,

Would this be the correct part?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Pe...p=mtr#shpCntId
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Performan...9Vy9Us&vxp=mtr

Shipping to sweden for those arent too bad. 80 bucks. And then I have to pay another 100 bucks for duties and customs.
Comes to around 500 bucks for the head.
Locally the exact same part costs 800 at least.

Then this + the gasket set should set me back 630 bucks. And that isn't too bad if it gets me up and running again.

Mike

Look on your head for numbers that are cast into the head itself. This will give you the part number you need. Make sure you get new head bolts as well, don't cheap out and reuse the old ones. And while you have that intake off, take a look at your injectors i would bet new ones wouldn't hurt while your in there.

[pridekit]

I replaced my lifters while I had the heads off, a few were collapsed and others I thought may be going so I did all 16.


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[roosm]

I replaced my lifters while I had the heads off, a few were collapsed and others I thought may be going so I did all 16.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi,

Thanks for the input, will have a closer look, but I think mine looked like new... Though granted I don't know what new looks like... =)

What head bolts do I need? Anyone have a link or part-number?
Can I get that from summit as well? Seem to have a good price on the gaskets I need.

THIS happened to my head: http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...ing-cast-iron&

I guess this welding technique works pretty well, though not as good as new.
Might be the slight intrusion of salt water making my valves spotted with rust. This I guess might also have weakened the Weld enough for it to get blown away...

I'll have a closer look in the cylinders when I get to the boat on saturday. I will need to make sure I have no issues caused by a big piece of weld bouncing around in one of those cylinders before ultimately being blown out the exhaust?

I didn't see anything on my first look though. I also need to make sure the surface of the block looks good where the gasket-blow was. Can I rotate the engine to be able to see the entire cylinders while I have the heads off?
Will this mess up timing or something else? Should I take any certain measures now to make it easier when reassembling?

If this checks out, I guess I am shopping a new cylinder head and the gasket set, otherwise I might be in the market for a replacement block.

Thanks!

Mike

[pridekit]

You should be able to turn the cylinders by "hand". To do this, you will need to attach a socket (24mm I believe) and breaker bar (you can use a normal ratchet with a pipe on it to get leverage, but a breaker bar is a nice investment) to the crankshaft. The crankshaft nut is covered by your raw water pump so you will need to pull this off first. Alternatively you can give the key a little bump, to kick move the cylinders.

Here are the parts I got:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-3601
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12558060 (I decided to do both of mine at once due to saltwater corrosion of one of my heads, the other hide wasn't as bad, but definitely had signs of corrosion.)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-434-2102
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-17232 (Double check this to make sure it is what you need. I think my motor is a couple years newer, but all of the vortec heads should use the same head gasket and intake gasket to my understanding)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-35062 (Your's thermostat gasket may be different, double check this)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330870652432...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (Summit had these lifters prices at $15-18 each)
http://www.mrcool.us/20-0082ss-p-barr-marine-kit.html (I replaced my riser gaskets as one had blown out, I opted to go with stainless bolts for anything that I could and either thread sealant or anti-seize grease)

You will likely need to reset the timing, there's some procedures for this, but we will need a bit more information. If you can let us know (or send a picture) what your distributor and MEFI computer look like we can help with the timing procedure
Here is a basic reference guide: https://www.bakesonline.com/images/M...tionTiming.pdf You may need the DIACOM software or a TechMate device to set the timing, or find a mechanic that has it.


Before you buy stuff, check that block and make sure all is good there. I'd hate for you to spend a bunch of money in shipping and customs and then have to return (or attempt to return) stuff after because there is something more wrong with the block (it would be cheaper to buy a remanufactured motor at that point I would think)

[roosm]

Hey!

Were out at the boat today. Looked at the block. Had some light carbon buildup between 4&6 but I gave it just a few strokes with 1200 grit paper and it quickly disappeared. Tested it with a feeler gauge and couldn't fit a 0,004 inch in there. I held a new razor perpendicular to the place that would be damaged with a led light behind it and it didn't spill any light so seemed perfectly flat!

The casting numbers on the heads are 10239906.
Would the summit ones work?

Thanks!

[roosm]

So I found information online that it should be possible to combine 906 and 062 heads with each other and that the 060 head that summit offers is really just a part number and the casting is actualy 062. So I should be fine there from what I understand.

I am right now considering:
Bare cylinder head 906/062 casting for 390 bucks including shipping and customs. Making it less of a likely choice as I would have to reuse my valves and have them set and everything.
Used Mercruiser cylinder head 906 casting for 390 bucks including shipping and customs.
Remanufactured cylinder head mercruiser for 526 including shipping and customs.
Remanufactured cylinder head unknown make (truck?) for possibly a little less than the used one. (I need stainless Valves, anything else specific to marine application?)
New cylinder head from either JEGS or Summit for 525 including shipping and customs (making it an attractive choice, but is the quality of these up to par with what came with the boat? Or would it be better to go for a remanufactured Mercruiser head?).
Both JEGS and Summit has an item Chevrolet Performance 12558060. I am guessing these to be the same thing, just two different companies selling it?

Any input on these choices?

[CJD]

The bare head would cost as much as the Summit by the time you did the valve job on it. The remanufactured heads may or may not be a good deal. It depends on the reputation of the rebuilding company. I've had both good and bad experiences with remanufactured.

I am not impressed with the original Indmar heads. They work, but they are not anything special. I think the Summit or Mercruiser heads would be an improvement.