87 Sun Sport Overhaul

[sybrmike]

Which Mike?

Yes, they can be repaired. Some buds & I had an old Nauti that we bent the rudder shaft (stump) & had straightened & then the next season (same stump) sheared the rudder off at the hull & had that one brazed back together. Both held up fine.

This time, I had to cut my rudder shaft to get the tiller arm off (well, after the fact didn't really have to - but oops too late). I did pick up a whole new rudder assembly so I could update a 20 year old seal and rudder design.

[NeilMcg]

Mike, sorry I didn't specify, but thanks for your input.

Today I set up shop. It's a non-heated warehouse with vitually no lighting. So I got a 170,000 btu torpedo heater and halogens on tri-pods.

Deck and engine are coming out January 15th. I'm using an engine hoist and hope to avoid the dilemma that Mani went through. If anyone has additional thoughts of how to avoid that I'd appreciate your input.

Took off the rub rail. What is that clear rubbery substance at the joint?


Wondering if there are any things to be consider before just unscrewing nuts when it comes time to seperate the shaft from the tranny.



I lost of of these "struts", if that's the right word on the other side. Does anyone know what they're called?



Just a basic view


Last question....How in the world do you take off the windshield??? I'm having it powdercoated and tinting the windows, but I couldn't figure it out.

[cadunkle]

Mike, what rudder assembly did you put in your Saltare and what was involved in the job? My rudder is a bit loose in the bushing/bearing and I figure I might replace the whole thing for next season and get the benefit of a dropless seal. Also going to convert my shaft packing to dripless. A dry bilge will be nice.

[NeilMcg]

Forgive me for chiming in, but I emailed Vince at Skidim awhile ago and he said that they have a complete compatible part #2430. Might want to check it out.

[mapleleaf]

I was in the position with my rudder 'til it lost to a rock......Mine was the older style with a flax packing collar at the top. If your's is the same I think it would be possible to have the shaft machined back straight to allow it to be freed up inside the hub...Just a thought before dumping $400 and a bunch of labor at replacing it.......
When I removed my old rudder shaft from the hub, the wear marks were so obvious that my stiff steering finally made sense. Apparently these rudders bent quite easily under the stress of the power turns our boats are capable of.

[NeilMcg]

Thanks for all of your advice on the rudder..Takin' diligent notes!! If anyone has knowledge on the current problems I'm dealing with, I'd really appreciate it.

[wotan2525]

Neil -- The clear substance is just regular 100% silicone caulk. This "seals" up the top and bottom halfs.

The adjustment arms on the anti-cavitation plate are stainless turnbuckles. http://www.hayn.com/marine/rigging/tt.html seems to have them, although maybe a forum member has a source for cheaper ones?

As far as removing the transmission coupler -- just unscrew the four bolts on the outside. This should get it away from the engine and then remove the set screw (if you decide to remove the coupler completely from the shaft.)

Good luck on the engine hoist. I tried 3-4 of them before giving up. Even a heavy-duty semi hoist didn't have the reach and height required to get the engine up and over the gunnels. I've had my engine out 5-6 times (don't ask.) It's been a combination of the joices in my garage (and letting the air out of the tires,) a friends car lift (again... air out of tires,) a HEAVY tree branch, and a gantry i-beam lift (this, by far, worked the best.)

[sybrmike]

Cadunkle - I picked up a "new surplus" assembly from Great Lakes Skipper. Some of thier stuff is a bargin, some not so much. Originally for now defunct Gekko, but the measurements were perfect. Haven't installed yet, but came complete with new rudder, top sleeve with lip seals and zircs, s/s tiller arm, and bottom plate for $150. Skidim & Viper also carry them (pretty universal) for a little more.

Neil - rubbery stuff at the hull joint is most likely silicone. Can be removed with a razor blade and power eraser. Typically you'll run a new bead between the lower edge of the new rub rail and hull after you install the rail.

Dab some PB Blaster on the nuts and between the flanges & let soak before you try to separate. Once the nuts & bolts are off, you can twist & pull from the prop to slide the shaft rearward. Might need to tap the flange with a rubber mallet to help break it loose. Careful, the brass is soft & you don't want to damage the faces by prying.

Wakeplate turnbuckle is the common term. Let me know if you need one. I'm adding electric actuators & won't need my old one's. They're oxidized, but functional - might clean up o.k.

There's a plastic trim piece ~1/2" wide that is inserted around the base of the windshield frames. Try sliding it to one side to open a gap at the end that you can pry it loose from. Careful, mine were beat up & I'm having a hard time sourcing new. With the trim out, you'll have access to the bolt heads (mine were nutted from below, but I've seen em just screwed in)

[NeilMcg]

Thanks guys, I appeciate the help. I'm assuming PB blaster is some sort of anti seizing compund. I'll check it out.

[NeilMcg]

Cadunkle - I picked up a "new surplus" assembly from Great Lakes Skipper. Some of thier stuff is a bargin, some not so much. Originally for now defunct Gekko, but the measurements were perfect. Haven't installed yet, but came complete with new rudder, top sleeve with lip seals and zircs, s/s tiller arm, and bottom plate for $150. Skidim & Viper also carry them (pretty universal) for a little more.

Neil - rubbery stuff at the hull joint is most likely silicone. Can be removed with a razor blade and power eraser. Typically you'll run a new bead between the lower edge of the new rub rail and hull after you install the rail.

Dab some PB Blaster on the nuts and between the flanges & let soak before you try to separate. Once the nuts & bolts are off, you can twist & pull from the prop to slide the shaft rearward. Might need to tap the flange with a rubber mallet to help break it loose. Careful, the brass is soft & you don't want to damage the faces by prying.

Wakeplate turnbuckle is the common term. Let me know if you need one. I'm adding electric actuators & won't need my old one's. They're oxidized, but functional - might clean up o.k.

There's a plastic trim piece ~1/2" wide that is inserted around the base of the windshield frames. Try sliding it to one side to open a gap at the end that you can pry it loose from. Careful, mine were beat up & I'm having a hard time sourcing new. With the trim out, you'll have access to the bolt heads (mine were nutted from below, but I've seen em just screwed in)

Let me know what you want for them, I'll buy them in a sec. Tks