Well, I got the valve cover vent hoses properly routed (thanks, cad), and a piece of 5/8 water hose with a molded 90 to reach from the new water pump to elevated intake. But no luck with a longer J-hose - gonna have to cut & splice. I found a muffler shop that thinks they have some 1-3/4" s/s pipe laying around somewhere & they'll cut me a section for a few bucks once they find it. My ebay special Pertronix electronic distributor showed up without a rotor (no wonder it was so cheap). Seller was non-responsive, but local auto parts store was able to match it up to an early 90's chevy truck.
Finally started on the wiring. The gauges were pretty easy since they're out of a 05 Outback & had part of a harness still attached. I'll just cut & splice on the back side of the harness connectors so the new gauge and speedo panels will pull out by just unplugging a few connectors each. The switch panel was a little more challenging. I'm adding "stuff", so had to start from scratch there. Lots of jumpers, but able to reuse a 9 pin connector from the gauge harness - so I'll have the 9 pin and spades for the 12v and ground to disconnect to make the panel plug & play. Oh, and I'll have direct 12v & ground feeds from the second battery direct to the "stereo" switch (the naked one on the bottom left) so that all the sound gear is on the second battery only (to help with any noise).
Keeping with the modular wiring theme, I'm using terminal strips for the transom wiring. I didn't want to make a custom harness so I ran some 6 conductor (signal, led, blowers, etc), 4 conductor (trim actuators), and a 10 ga ground (plus speaker and courtesy lights) wire before I sat the cap down. Still have a few wires to add at the back as I add components (fuel sender, 2nd bilge pump, etc.), but I think I counted correctly & have a few extra lugs just in case. I was gonna solder & heatshrink everything, but I'm running out of time & patience - so just using heat shrink crimp-ons & will wire tie everything once I'm done.
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