I need trailer help....

[SuperSaltAir]

Yes pull the tire pull of the drum pull the springs off unbolt from the back and remove. If you dont feel like honing them out you can just change them they are cheap maybe around 10$ napa caries allot of stuff that might work for you. Also since you have the brake pads almost off I think its worth changing them. The ones on my 20yrs old saltaire delaminated the friction material fell of the metal bracket that holds it im not sure why but it did there was allot of material there they looked brand new but just separated.

[rludtke]

I recently went through my trailer to restore all of its mechanical functionality.

I replaced the original hydraulic actuator with a new Atwood (http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-179-a882543.aspx) actuator from SouthWest Wheel. I had to grind the welds mounting the original, but the Atwood can be bolted on. It features a mechanical reverse lock-out feature.

I also incorporated this solenoid valve: http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/...e=kkbaksvnokit. You plumb it into the system just downstream from the actuator, and wire it to your reverse light circuit. When reversing the trailer, the solenoid closes and prevents the actuator from pressurizing the brakes.

I also replaced the original mechanical brakes with Kodiak discs (http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/...rcm10ekit.aspx) as my hubs were bad anyway, and many parts were missing from the mechanical brake actuator system. A little expensive, but in the long run, I think this was a good decision. The brakes are very effective, and much easier to maintain.

Cheers,

[wotan2525]

Yes pull the tire pull of the drum pull the springs off unbolt from the back and remove. If you dont feel like honing them out you can just change them they are cheap maybe around 10$ napa caries allot of stuff that might work for you. Also since you have the brake pads almost off I think its worth changing them. The ones on my 20yrs old saltaire delaminated the friction material fell of the metal bracket that holds it im not sure why but it did there was allot of material there they looked brand new but just separated.

Thanks so much for this. My wheel cylinders were indeed completely seized up. The bleed screw was wrecked and even with 150psi of pressure, I couldn't get the cup out of the bore.

I finally resorted to a mixture of wire brush and steel wool to get the cylinder and PB Blaster to get the cup out with air pressure. Luckily it wasn't facing my head or I'm pretty sure I'd still be in the ER. It happened at the exact moment that I was convinced that it wasn't going to come out.

Regardless -- there's no way that those pistons were going to be moving without me rebuilding them. I've only got one side done but I'm confident I can probably get the other side torn down and rebuilt in about an hour and a half.

[SuperSaltAir]

Im happy I could help out. And I am glad I was able to prevent someone from having to pull the drums off when the brakes are fully engaged that is a major PITA. Good luck with the rest of it let us know how it goes.

[wotan2525]

Finally got everything replaced and hooked back up. I think I've replace almost every part in the coupler (I will also absolutely eff up the guy that engineered that little spring that keeps the latch down.) The entire coupler mechanism goes together like a puzzle. Replace a piece in the wrong order and you are screwed!! The old nuts on it were all one-way nuts (which I've never heard of.)

Regardless, I've got a new master cylinder, new shock absorber, new brake lines, new t fittings and rebuilt wheel cylinders with new pads. Here's the last problem -- I'm using a mityvac to bleed and I can't seem to get the air out. I've probably sucked through at least 2 pints of fluid. Should it take that long??

[sybrmike]

Glad to hear of the trailer progress. I don't know about two pints, but it took a lots of push/pulls after I installed all new lines, couplers, calipers, etc. - not much throw on the coupler piston. Could the mityvac be pulling air through a loose connection?

[wotan2525]

That's my concern. It could also just be pulling air through the bleeder valve threads. Going to bleed it again for a while this weekend. Couldn't spend any more time laying under the boat without feeling like a hobbit. Now that my starter is fried, I'll have to find something to do!

[tezmo]

how did you pull the hubs off ? - on my 1987 Saltare trailer (with Atwood drum brakes) it looks like the bearing will have to come off to get the hub removed if I cannot slip the hub over the end of the bearingl

Thanks! Here's where I stand right now....

I replaced the master cylinder and the brake line going across the axle. Also replaced the shoulder bolt and the push-rod mechanism that activates the master cylinder.

Of course I found out that the main line was rusted solid, so I pulled out the old steel line (how they ever got that in the frame, I'll never know.) I've ordered a new flexible line to run through there. Also ordered a new to latch mechanism since that will be almost the last moving part to be replaced and I might as well go whole hog at this point.

I pulled the hubs off and gave all of the drum mechanisms a good shot of WD40 to try and loosen them up. I'm worried that the wheel brake cylinders are going to be rusty, but I'm not sure how to address that besides just pumping them full of fluid and seeing what happens.

Additionally, I finally picked up my own tow vehicle. It's not pretty to look at, but I was driving past a farm and the guy had a 1993 F-250 parked outside for $600. I got him down to $400 and it's mine. Picked up a class IV hitch and spent a few hours getting it bolted on. Paid the DMV their bullcrap $230 for registration and gave it a go. It works awesome!! So happy to finally have my own truck.... The F250 pulls it really well and with a few little tweaks it should work out for a while.

[lively]

Finally got everything replaced and hooked back up. I think I've replace almost every part in the coupler (I will also absolutely eff up the guy that engineered that little spring that keeps the latch down.) The entire coupler mechanism goes together like a puzzle. Replace a piece in the wrong order and you are screwed!! The old nuts on it were all one-way nuts (which I've never heard of.)

Regardless, I've got a new master cylinder, new shock absorber, new brake lines, new t fittings and rebuilt wheel cylinders with new pads. Here's the last problem -- I'm using a mityvac to bleed and I can't seem to get the air out. I've probably sucked through at least 2 pints of fluid. Should it take that long??

when u cant force bleed, I always get the master as high away from calipers or wheel cylinders and just gravity bleed and take those little bottles of
brake fluid and tip it up and let the fluid be the guide .. do u see any bubbles in the master?