Summer ended shortly for me :( Resto begins.

[wspeedin]

So I got the motor back from the builder today he painted the block black for me and installed the intake manifold I had cleaned/repainted earlier in the week and the new valve covers.


The builder repaired the crack in the water jacket above the #1 cylinder very nicely! He added a cam that would add some more torque for pulling more weight. And because the #3 cylinder had alot of pitting he went .30 over with the bore. New bearings, rings, freeze plugs, and a valve job. After all this work he charged wha tI think to be a fair price of $1800. Im looking forward to the new motor lasting along time after this.

[TitanTn]

Looks great. Can't wait to see it in the boat. Just a word of advice based on a mistake I recently made and am still paying for. Be sure to have strong enough chain quick links when you lift the motor. If not, the engine can come crashing to the ground, and this makes grown people cry.

[sybrmike]

Those valve covers have to be good for another 2-3 mph on the top end Sound like even prettier on the inside. Gonna be tough keepin a light throttle for break in...

TT - hope you cryin from a smashed pan & not a broken bone.

[TitanTn]

Yeah. Smashed pan and bent raw water pump shaft or pulley. Fortunately no one was hurt.

[wspeedin]

Yeah Titan, my buddies nautique shop has everything I need to make it a quick and easy install. It definitely makes it easier when you have friends who do this stuff for a living

Sybrmike, Im thinking the chrome flames are gonna add about 4.35hp to the overall performance of the motor lol. They were $30 and the originals were in no condition to go back on the boat. Im going to hope I can do the break in on the trailer at the dock. I could just do it with a water hose connected but I was thinking that wouldnt be the best idea because it could overheat or whatnot. So better safe than sorry.

[cadunkle]

Yes, when breaking in the cam have the boat in the water. I would be concerned over the ability of a garden hose to deliver the water flow required for a 2000-3000 RPM cam breakin on an engine without timing or jetting set right. All sorts of issues can make 'em run hot on breakin.

Also, suggest using Valvoline VR-1 oil along with a bottle of Comp (or whatever your cam manufacturer recommends) breakin additive. Don't just run Rotella because every says it has high sulfer and zinc content. They drastically reduces the sulfer and zinc in Rotella a few years back and I wiped a cam on a customer's engine a few years back... Had to swallow that one. Valvoline published the sulfer and zinc content of their oil and it's one of the highest you can get off the shelf, if not the highest.

[wspeedin]

I would love some opinions from ya'll on this part of the boat....I am redoing the acrylic storage doors and putting re dLED lights behind the doors to illuminate the interior area that they protect. I have had the idea to have the Supra logo on these acrylic doors and i want the red light to shine through the logo. So the first idea I had was to tint the glass and then engrave the logo into it. Earlier in this thread I posted a picture of the engraving without tint. And now Im going to post a picture of just the tint with the logo cut out of the tint.

My question is, which one do you guys like more?

or

[TitanTn]

I think the dark tinted version will be better for the storage compartment doors. You won't want to see all the stuff you have stored in the compartment all the time.

[wspeedin]

I think the dark tinted version will be better for the storage compartment doors. You won't want to see all the stuff you have stored in the compartment all the time.

Titan, I would tint the engraved one before I started the engraving. This picture just shows what the engraving looked like (it was a test piece). So try and imagine that it is tinted with the engraving in it.

[TitanTn]

Ah, missed that part. In that case I like the engraving on on the clear glass example.